Is it the switch typically?
TIA
Demian,
That logic works for me…if the window goes down, then the motor runs, the tracks are guiding the window, and the mechanism is moving the window. Since the switch is doing nothing more than reversing the polarity and based on that, i would also suspect a faulty window switch. While i guess there could be other reasons…like a bad bushing which allows the window to pinch in the track…i think switch is a good bet.
Just my 2 cents
Cheers
Gary
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You can usually tell if the motor is energized. If in doubt, try “helping” the window down by putting your palms on both sides (door open) whilst activating the switch. I’ve had many examples of windows that were easy up but hard or not-at-all down. OTOH the switch can fail, as can one motor winding or its connection to the harness (there are two windings on S1 motors, but only one on later cars (polarity is reversed to change direction).
Demian,
I take it your window lift motor doesn’t work (otherwise the window might have left the carrying rail).
Main suspect is the switch - easy to cross-check with another one. Then you might think of the relays located at the rear bench (one for up, one for down) … still assuming the SI setup is the same as for SII.
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
Hi Demian, need to know which window. We don’t have relays for Series 1 cars. Just the switches passing full motor current. What we do have, however, is a relay style gadget mounted in the LH foot well (behind the hardura panel) that governs conflicts etc: like simultaneous switching of a rear window using the fore and aft switches. As others, I would look to the local switch. Is it the front switch rear switch or both?
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Been a while since I fooled with the circuit but IIRC the gadget in the foot well is a circuit breaker. The elimination of conflicts is accomplished by clever wiring of the front switches. Each rear switch receives power only when the corresponding front switch is in the centre (off) position. Operating the front switch disconnects power to the rear one.
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Hi Paul … thank you for that. Interesting, that is something I never knew of…this relay type thingy at driver’s side area.
It is the rear passenger window…goes down well, not up…zzzzz
Haven’t had a chance to look at it yet, just gathering ammo for when I do…
thank you ALL very much. All awesome answers.
Hi Robert, it is indeed a breaker - thanks for the memory jog. When I put our car back together, after 23 years, I worked it through from first principles. I was thrilled when it actually began working - I think they are a little rare and expensive these days. Paul
Have you tried helping the window up? another thing that I do on occasion is take a bit of silicon spray and shoot it down the window guides on each side of the window. this will help reduce friction while attempting to go up. It’s been my experience more often than not, if the motor is having a bit of trouble this helps. if the window still doesn’t go up, and you can’t here it trying, then I’d start at the switch, It’s an easier place to start than taking the door panel off and getting to the motor.
I had the same problem in my '86 Series III '85 Series III and '74 Series II. All of them were the switch, well the Series II was the switch and the window regulator needing a bit of lube.
keep us posted of your progress
cheers!
Thank you Mark…I sure will.
What I need to do to all 4 doors is remove their panels, clean, lube and go over everything within, and POR 15 the door interiors
I’ll take some photos too for posterity.
Also to stretch and refresh those wavy interior door panels…
Best
D