I tried a small pipe wrench on one bushing, to no avail. It only cut a strip off the outside of the bushing hat brim. I will soak a little more and if that doesn’t work, use heat. I have ordered new steel and plastic bushings for the refit.
John_Walker1:
Those metal bushings can be a pain to extract. They frequently become corroded into the tube; often times requiring getting a pipe wrench on the rim to get them to move…
I had one that was well and truly stuck. Undid the hinge, got the bonnet out of the way and put a big pipe wrench on it. Something was going to give!
Something gave:
That brass bit was brazed onto the front tube of the trapeze - it broke loose without letting go of the pivot piece. That piece came out once the thing was in a 20 ton press.
Then a friend brazed the end piece back on:
Good as new (and did get a new pivot and used lots of anti-seize):
The shop manual instructions were written for the very early cars which had a stud welded into the bonnet support instead of the later bushing arrangement, so if you owned one of those very rare cars, you’d have to remove at least one bracket to get the bonnet off. Then, of course, you have a lot of fun trying to re-align the bonnet.when you put it back.
Normally, on most cars, there’s absolutely no need to disturb the brackets at all. Once the bolt is out, the bushing ought to come out with a little persuasion from a pair of slip-grips;-
Then, when everything else is disconnected, tilt the bonnet forward onto the overriders and walk it away from the car on a piece of carpet.
And you can do this by yourself quite easily, you don’t need six big guys to help Maybe one helper at most;-
If one leaves one of the two brackets unmolested one shouldn’t have to realign the bonnet, assuming any shims are not removed. The unmolested shim will act as a basis for properly locating the bonnet.
Thanks Clive. Your pictures are great,although the crucial one shows use of the channel locks after the bracket has been removed. It’s not so easy when the bracket is still there. However , thanks for the great rendition of the problem. I certainly understand now that my problem is the usual one of old rusted parts stuck by corrosion.
Dave;
The suggestions given have been good. If you have not been able to remove the pivot sleeve yet
( Geo Hahn pointed it out) I will tell you what I had to do to get mine out in 2009.
I had used penetrating fluid and a pipe wrench and vise grips but no luck. It was hard to get a good hold on the thin edge of the pivot sleeve after working on it for a couple of days. I then welded a 5/8" nut to the end of the pivot sleeve which allowed a good grip. Used more penetrating fluid and worked the welded nut back and forth and it started to move some and as I continued to work with it success was mine.
Good luck.
No, the bracket (bonnet hinge) is still attached in my photo and there’s no way I would have disturbed it just to remove the bonnet.
The only things I have disconnected are the centre bolt, the electrical plug and the bottom bolt from each bonnet stay.
Jaguar’s name for the part I am removing is “Bushing” and a bit of grease on that and the centre bolt when you reinstall it saves a lot of trouble in the future.
Thanks Joel. I know it is an S.O.B. of a job to get them out. The nut weld is a good idea and I will keep it in mind. I could get my buzz box out to the garage and weld the nut on. I have some new ones on the way anyway.
John_Walker1:
