I guess this is an old topic, but I need a little reliable advice re: the brackets. Can I remove one side only and then remove the plastic Bushings to allow the removal of the bonnet? And replace it by reversing the process?
The brackets stay on the bonnet.
Removal involves taking out the large bolt on each side then pulling out the tube bush that goes inside the plastic bushings you can see.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog/254-bonnetoff.html
Thanks. I will manage from here.
Sincerely,
Dave Potter (Rico), in Ottawa ON CanadaYou may have gotten confused by a casual reading of the manual which addresses the early design wherein the brackets had to be removed.
As in many other instances, the manual requires you to figure out which updates apply to your car as the core portion of the manual was written for the early cars and everything that comes after treated as an addendum.
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You are absolutely right, George. And thankyou for saying so . It gives me much peace of mind…
DavidYou would likely benefit from slightly loosening one hinge connection to the bonnet. This makes it easier to slip it off and back on the pivot tube without ruining the nylon bushings. By loosening just one, you’ll preserve your current bonnet alignment.
Good advice! Thanks Erica…
DaveThat is absolutely the way to do it IMO. Once I had my car’s bonnet where I wanted it I drilled a 1/8" hole through the bracket into the bonnet and bolt backing plate. Reassembly then is simplified by using the tapered punch that came with my screwdriver set to push the hinge into position.
Thanks John and others. I am still trying to get those bracket bolts to turn. The end pin/bolts came out easily enough. I guess they have been removed more recently.
Rico
John_Walker1
John Walker 69 FHC (mailed check patron)
August 19
Erica_Moss:
You would likely benefit from slightly loosening one hinge connection to the bonnet. This makes it easier to slip it off and back on the pivot tube without ruining the nylon bushings. By loosening just one, you’ll preserve your current bonnet alignment.
That is absolutely the way to do it IMO. Once I had my car’s bonnet where I wanted it I drilled a 1/8" hole through the bracket into the bonnet and bolt backing plate. Reassembly then is simplified by using the tapered punch that came with my screwdriver set to push the hinge into position.
Sounds like PB Blaster or another penetrating lubricant will need to be employed.
Thanks for the advice John,but the problem, as usual, is access to the rusty threads. The bonnet is a bit rusty under the brackets. I have used a hacksaw blade to gain some access to one or two bolts on one bracket. It is soaking in the oil now . The two end bolts came so easily that I suspect the others on at least one bracket will come also. A mechanic had the bonnet off in 1980 or so ; he took out the engine but only replaced the std bearings and polished the crank journals . I suspect the previous owner ran it out of oil, so I am hoping the damage is not too severe. The oil pressure wasn’t too too bad . (around 20 at idle) , but it only has 43000 miles on it. The cooling is poor as well, so I am going the whole hog . The starter is weak and the wiring is bad, so it needs the whole thing done.The brakes are good (done recently) . I replaced the clutch master cylinder last year. The gearbox and clutch are good , but I will do the clutch when I have it out anyway.New windshield as well, and 3 point belts.
I have a big project with a little body work as well on the fender of the bonnet.
John_Walker1
John Walker 69 FHC (mailed check patron)
August 19
Reeko:
Thanks John and others. I am still trying to get those bracket bolts to turn. The end pin/bolts came out easily enough. I guess they have been removed more recently.
Sounds like PB Blaster or another penetrating lubricant will need to be employed.
I have never undone the brackets to remove the bonnet on my S2.
I just removed the end bolts and then withdrew the pivot, this piece:
https://xks.com/i-7080571-jaguar-pivot-sleeve-e-type-bonnet-co-19330.html
If it ruins a nylon bushing (mine didn’t) they are cheap to replace:
https://xks.com/search.html?q=CO-16804&go=Search
All that said, if you are dealing with rusty parts that haven’t moved in a long while then those pivot pieces may be reluctant to move - but there is nothing holding them in there and channel locks or such can be used to give them a twist.
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I really don’t see what benefit there is to undoing either of the brackets from the bonnet either. The pivot sleeve can be difficult to remove, but it has to come off, whereas unless your bonnet fit needs adjustment, there is no reason I can think of to loosen those bolts between the hinge and the bonnet. If you have to take a torch to the sleeves, you will destroy the nylon bushes, but they are not expensive to replace. Maybe I’m missing something - it has been said before…
-David
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IIRC, the part of the Series I-1/2 and Series II bonnets I’m showing in the picture below are the same.
Look to the side in the bonnet mouth and you will see a more or less oval hole. Get your eyes in the right position and you can see the thread end of the four bolts on each side that hold the hinge to the bonnet. The below picture shows the two vertical bolts, the two horizontal bolts are just below them and out of the view of the camera. Fairly easy to work a spray can of PB blaster in there with a spray tube on it and give the bolts a shot or two of penetrant.
You mention bodywork so I’m assuming bonnet painting is in your future, in which case you are probably going to want to remove the hinges.
Thanks to George and David L. for the true sense of the matter!
I have always been indebted to the same old men since I joined this group!
God bless you all!
Rico
August 19
Ahwahnee:
easily enough. I guess they have been removed more recently.
I have never undone the brackets to remove the bonnet on my S2.
easily enough. I guess they have been removed more recently.
I really don’t see what benefit there is to undoing either of the brackets from the bonnet either. The pivot sleeve can be difficult to remove, but it has to come off, whereas unless your bonnet fit needs adjustment, there is no reason I can think of to loosen those bolts between the hinge and the bonnet. If you have to take a torch to the sleeves, you will destroy the nylon bushes, but they are not expensive to replace. Maybe I’m missing something - it has been said before…
-David
Nicely done, John. Thanks!
Dave
John_Walker1
John Walker 69 FHC (mailed check patron)
August 19
Thanks for the advice John,but the problem, as usual, is access to the rusty threads. The bonnet is a bit rusty under the brackets.
IIRC, the part of the Series I-1/2 and Series II bonnets I’m showing in the picture below are the same.
Look to the side in the bonnet mouth and you will see a more or less oval hole. Get your eyes in the right position and you can see the thread end of the four bolts on each side that hold the hinge to the bonnet. The below picture shows the two vertical bolts, the two horizontal bolts are just below them and out of the view of the camera. Fairly easy to work a spray can of PB blaster in there with a spray tube on it and give the bolts a shot or two of penetrant.
You mention bodywork so I’m assuming bonnet painting is in your future, in which case you are probably going to want to remove the hinges.
I agree. I’ve taken off a lot of bonnets. Never touch the bracket bolts in case I stuff up the bonnet alignment. The worst problem as you mention is shifting the pivot sleeve if it’s rusted in.
[quote=“Reeko, post:1, topic:366708, full:true”]
I guess this is an old topic, but I need a little reliable advice re: the brackets. Can I remove one side only and then remove the plastic Bushings to allow the removal of the bonnet? And replace it by reversing the process?
[/q How do the steel pivot sleeves come out? After removing the bolts , I tried separating the sleeve from the shaft, but it will not budge .Even with a sharp wood chisel , it is very stuck. Can I keep working on it and squirting oil into the tube where it is pressed? … If you have done lots of them, some must have been more stubborn than others. What worked best or at all?
Loosen all four bolts on one bracket (or hinge). Remove both of the bolts on each side that allow the bonnet to pivot. Besides the plastic bushings there is a metal bushing on each side. They are stove pipe hat shaped (think Abe Lincoln) and the long shaft of the hat goes through the bracket, through the plastic bushing and into the tube the long bolt threads into.
Those metal bushings can be a pain to extract. They frequently become corroded into the tube; often times requiring getting a pipe wrench on the rim to get them to move. Realize those bushings are what actually hold the bonnet brackets - and the bonnet - to the tube. When you remove the metal bushings from bracket and tube the only thing holding the bonnet up is who ever you conned into helping you.
Reassembly is first the plastic bushing, then align the bracket, push the metal bushing through the bracket into the tube and then run in the long bolt. Use your favorite anti seize liberally when you insert the metal bushing and bolt.
I had one that was well and truly stuck. Undid the hinge, got the bonnet out of the way and put a big pipe wrench on it. Something was going to give!
Something gave:
That brass bit was brazed onto the front tube of the trapeze - it broke loose without letting go of the pivot piece. That piece came out once the thing was in a 20 ton press.
Then a friend brazed the end piece back on:
Good as new (and did get a new pivot and used lots of anti-seize):
