Hello,
I need set of SU Carbs to possibly convert my 85 XJ6 fuel injectors to carb
Where can I buy these set of SU Carbs either used or brand new.
Please assist.
Would 2, HD8s work for you?
I may have what you need but where do you live, to see if shipping is worthwhile? Many people would switch the other way. Why are you changing?
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Twins or triples???
My mechanic recommends the SU type but not sure if what you have mentioned is same as the SU carb.
Twin would be ideal but let me know which is available at your end so I can pass the Info to the specialist for his comment and recommendations about it please.
Send photos please
Am in Accra, Ghana please.
Am recommended by the mechanic to change to carbs because there are issues which we have tried to resolve such as pressing hard on gas pedal and engine slows down and goes off but on idle the engine runs perfectly.
Michael, Good luck. You will need the manifold as well as the throttle linkage. I have all of these spare just sitting on my shelf from a series 1 car that was wrecked. But even if I offered them free to you the cost of freight would be prohibitive. You need to keep working on the FI system and get that right.
( and FYI, the best carbs to have are the HS8, then perhaps HD8, followed by the HIF7 - at least that is my view)
Hi wiggles,
Could you kindly send me photos of that you have to show them to the specialist?
Thanks John,
The best place would be from US or UK where I can have it deliver to a shipper’s location to be forwarded to me in Ghana.
If that’s your only reason we can try to figure this out, since fuel injection gives lower fuel consumption, higher power and parts are cheaper (few fail). If you can give us a list of items you/ your mechanic have checked, I‘m sure we can figure it out and save you a bunch of work and money.
You say it starts well and idles well, you can accelerate too, but pushing hard makes the engine die. Is that correct? Does that problem still exist when the engine is hot?
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Have you checked the water temperature center to the ECU, maybe it runs too lean. And do you have that little microswitch at the throttle; if so, did you try to disconnect that? It would shut off fuel over 1400 rpm or so.
Or do you have catalytic converters and lambda feedback?
Below issues were detected and fixed
-
Cylinder 5 was seized, we opened the head fixed that issue and changed all the cylinder head studs
-
Changed fuel pressure valve, fuel return valves at the side of the tires, changed fuel pump several times, changed the changeover valve,
-
All gaskets replaced
-
Injectors purged
-
(Faulty) Air bleed valve replaced to fixed fuel return issue.
-
ECU replaced
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We keep changing AFMs in testing engine running performance
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Timing chain guards replaced
-
Sparking plugs replaced
-
Ignition plug leads/wires replaced
Above are some of the replacement/changes I can remember as we have done on the car.
With just a foot presence on the gas paddle with no press the car moves and accelerate by itself and advances the speed but the moment the paddle press to accelerate, the stalls and fire or engine dies.
Below issues were detected and fixed
-
Cylinder 5 was seized, we opened the head fixed that issue and changed all the cylinder head studs
-
Changed fuel pressure valve, fuel return valves at the side of the tires, changed fuel pump several times, changed the changeover valve,
-
All gaskets replaced
-
Injectors purged
-
(Faulty) Air bleed valve replaced to fixed fuel return issue.
-
ECU replaced
-
We keep changing AFMs in testing engine running performance
-
Timing chain guards replaced
-
Sparking plugs replaced
-
Ignition plug leads/wires replaced
Above are some of the replacement/changes I can remember as we have done on the car.
With just a foot presence on the gas paddle with no press the car moves and accelerate by itself and advances the speed but the moment the paddle press to accelerate, the stalls and fire or engine dies.
OK, now we understand why your mechanic would like to change, and in your situation I might be the same, but there are others who will contribute extra ideas. It certainly sounds like fuel starvation and I didn’t see you mention filters. There are fuel filters ‘socks’ over the tanks pick-up pipes and the big one by the engine. With all the work on the fuel system I guess he has had to drain the tanks more than once but do check the fuel pressure and flow at the fuel rail.
If not fuel, then the coil is a suspect, or the AB14 amplifier but this all assumes the timing is correct when strobed and the advance has not seized. Again, I would guess he looked at these things very early and a coil is very easy to replace temporarily with a new good one to see if it changes things, but still worth asking. An old test is to put a bag of frozen peas on the coil or the amplifier when the misfiring begins. If cooling the part makes it better for a short time, this is a good clue. Remember also that the amplifier must have a good earth/ground connection and the amplifier box contents must have a good heat conducting connection to the case.
I have twin carb parts from an E-Type you could have for free but you would need to make cooling system changes and there are a few items missing. it would be better to have the complete twin carb setup for an XJ. If your mechanic has a manual the Stromberg system will be covered together with the SU system and they are somewhat similar. Someone here will help. You will need a different pump as carbs only need 2-3 psi, not 35 psi like injection. I am guessing the car is left-hand drive as it is a Series 3? This will make US parts easier to fit.
Please stick with us until we fix it with you. We exist to help others and we get grumpy with each other if we have no interesting cases to solve. You WILL get this fixed, they are simple cars. The only question is how long it takes. They are lovely cars and going through everything will help reliability eventually.
Well, I forgot to mention, the coil was replaced with a new one and it fires great.
Apart from the fuel filter in the trunk is there any other filter?
The air filter was also replaced.
The mechanic last time told me it’s better to find and fix a complete set of SU carbs with manual choke. He shown me a similar which has same issues and he converted the injectors to carbs and after the issues were solved. He’s over 40 experienced in fixing jags but my issue is beating him up.
I agree to stay here and welcome any supportive ideal to get the car’s is Solve.
The car is LHD from US.
There should be a large, probably silver aluminium, filter between the supply pipe where it enters the engine compartment and the connection to the fuel rail. It will look like a cylinder approximately 4" or 100 mm long and about 3"/75 mm diameter. Some cars have a filter in the boot where the line goes out of the boot and under the body. These may use a disposable element. However, if the car had dirty/rusty fuel and tanks, and the pump was run without pick-up tank filters or no filter in the supply line, it is almost 100% certain the injectors will be affected again and the pump will fail sooner or later. Even if the filters WERE cleaned and replaced, if there was rust and dirty fuel in the tanks, the fuel system may need flushing more than once. Fuel injectors are more fussy than carburetors.
You have a good mechanic who doesn’t feel right taking time/money and not getting the problem sorted. He knows he could get your car running OK with carbs because there is no mystery or computer magic.
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I agree with others: fix the EFI, and you’ll have a better-running engine.
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silver aluminium, filter between the supply pipe where it enters the engine compartment and the connection to the fuel rail.
Am not getting well this filter as described, can you show me a photo of that please?