I’ve recently experience my engine totally cutting out whilst driving. This happens, typically after it has warmed up a bit and on a drive, but it will cut in and out and I may usually have to coast to a stop. Typically it will crank over and start, but quite erratically. Eventually after 5 or so minutes of persisting, it will be fine, until next time. Whenever that may be.
Now it is definitely an electrical issue as the Rev Counter drops to zero when it cuts out, each time.
My thinking initially was that there may be an issue with the Rev counter as this would normally be be wired to the ballast resistor, however, as I’m running a Crane Fireball XR3000 electronic ignition system, by passing the ballast resistor, that would not be the issue.
Would a problematic coil cause this issue or may it be that the Crane module may be starting to play up?
One thing about modern electronics generally they work or they don’t older systems have problems with circuit boards bad solder joints
Sounds like a connection somewhere but it could be fuel supply dirty fuel filter ? bad ground on fuel pump causes low pressure just some thoughts as I don’t know your system
I doubt it. The tach wouldn’t drop to zero if it was fuel and it wouldn’t cut off abruptly. I had a loose fuel pump ground a few years back, engine lost power then died but didn’t cut off and tach stayed on.
Sounds like a bad connection to the ignition incl I GM switch
On mine, I had the exact same symptoms as you have, but as noted it was caused by arcing/shorting from the bad wires. I’ld check along the pathways to ensure there are no cuts in the wiring or places where it can be shorting to ground. Aren’t these cars fun?!
Did you ever figure this out? I am having the same issues. It starts and dues after a few seconds, losing spark. New optical pickup, new module, new coil. Goid grounds,and I even put a hot straight to the plus side if the coil.
Ahh, yes. It appeared to be excessive condensation build up in the distributor cap and the optical pickup was dirty. Gave it a really good clean and all seems fine now, but not sure what caused the build up of condensation. it was however missing the gasket between the distributor cap and body, which I have now installed.
Hi John,
First, a little more info is required. What year model is your S3 E-type?
I’ll share my experience owning/driving V12’s. First, early production (MY71) the Lucas ignition rotors were prone to shorting to the dizzy shaft. Second, dizzy caps were prone to carbon build-up on the twelve plug contacts plus the case was prone to cracking. That’s why I always carried a spare (or two) rotor and dizzy caps.
When the cutout happens your tachometer drops to Zero immediately. That tells me something in your ignition circuit. I’ve been a fan of the Crane (Now FAST) system for years. Very reliable, never had an amplifier failure but it could happen.
Swap out your XR3000 amplifier and see if the problem persist. If not, worst case, you have a spare amp. I’d also swap out the dizzy cap and rotor.
Is the twelve(12) slot rotor firmly fixed to the dizzy shaft mount? Also, how about the optical sensor? All parts are available from FAST.
How long have you been operating with the Crane iginition system?
Soooooo much fun trying to nail down these electrical issues!!!
Re-read your last post. Condensation build-up in the cap would certainly cause problems. Have you washed the motor while it was hot? That;s something you really don’t want to do!!!
If your dizzy hasn’t ever been rebuilt then most likely the shaft seal (unobtainable - unidentifiable)) may be letting crankcase fumes into the dizzy. There are two fixes. PM me for details.
Like I said before, I am a firm beliver (and user) of the Crane (FAST) ignition system over all the rest. Now that REOPUS is no longer being produced it’s what I’d recommend over all the rest!
it was however missing the gasket between the distributor cap and body, which I have now installed.