Craig,
Thank you for noticing that. 
That is a full scale E-Type FHC that I drew on my wall in chalk based on an image that I found online. It is not complete. I plan on painting it with a color that matches my car after I finish the wheels and tires.
Paul
Very Nice.
I suspect you’ll need a healthy dose of patience when the time comes to draw the CWWs!
Hook up a digital projector to your computer, bring the image up onto your displacly, project the image on the wall … then trace it out (okay, so you have to make sure not to stand in front of the projector while tracing the image, but hey, some things are worth it).
Jerry,
That is exactly how I made that chalk drawing on my wall, using my laptop and a projector that I borrowed from my local car club and an image that I found online. That image did not have tires and wheels so I will use a picture that I took of my car to add those details in.
Paul
Imho, don’t do any more to that drawing, it looks great…really arty.
It’s a case of Less is More…
I don’t think the members from the US realise just how fortunate they are. In most of the Western World space is at a premium, both physically and cost wise.
Not only that, but also not many part stores, engineering shops are fewer than expected, junkyards or barnfinds are rare, and petrol costs money. It’s not all bad of course but more space would certainly be good.
I’ve met the sculptor face to face in Paris retromobile show this year, very friendly and may be convinced to create an XJS version of his work
cost would probably buy a rolling car, but at least the sclpture won’t fail nor rust 
I think that many of us U.S. members realize, and appreciate, the things we have. 
I know I do. Have lived outside the U.S. in Europe and Korea. And traveled Europe and Central America and Korea. Have lived in many places in the U.S. Fortunately my U.S. residences did not include living in big cities. I know I have it good.
Small. We‘ve done quite some car work in here with underbody panel replacement and engine RR. Tight but fun. We love the little crane, the chalkboard and one of newer aquistions the quiet Alup compressor.
That crane is incredibly useful. Highly recommended! It’s never in the way and you can easily get heavy items to wherever you like them.
The picture is lying, it’s still a squeeze past situation, but it fits.
That picture reminds me of when I was young and poor…er.
I lifted a four cylinder Iron engine out of a car by removing the cylinder head and standing on the inner wings to lift it onto the bonnet closing panel, then lifted it onto the floor. (broken crank)
Also, working in a small, unlit, sectional garage, two of us lifted the engine and combined gearbox out of a mini using a scaffold pole across our shoulders .
It seemed to feel really heavy and somehow stuck, which was when we noticed one of the engine mounts was still connected and the rubber was stretched to about 3" long.
A third person quickly cut the rubber with a hacksaw.
I took the engine out of my LandRover 88 by using a wooden sectional ladder as an A frame for a block and tackle.
The Landy had a noisy gearbox input shaft bearing, so I stripped the gearbox, found the bearing wasn’t in stock for a couple of weeks, so stripped the entire vehicle down to the chassis, welded and painted it, rebuilt the gearbox, and put it back on the road over three weekends.
Another one, I took the engine out of a Ford Escort on the side of the road. There was a building site with scaffold, so I extended a piece of scaffold over the pavement and road, added a support leg and used a rope to haul the four cylinder cast iron lump out.
Really…really bad black sludge had seized the timing chain tensioner and stuck the rings to the point of breaking. Being young and poor it got new timing chain and tensioner, new rings and pcv valve cleanout and new gaskets at the roadside.
The above used to be normal activities for young men to perform in their spare time and if one had any interest at all, were great for increasing ones engineering knowledge and skills.
Having dirty black fingernails due to black sludge in the engines was seen as the norm, engine failures were common.
I also note that pick and pull scrapyards used to be in every shabby part of town, now mostly gone.
Hi,
I have enjoyed seeing so many of your workshops. I have a few, but the countryside one is tight, unheated, uninsulated and has no electricity! But that’s where I rebuilt the 1947 engine in my 1950 MKV.
The one in the city is shared by half a dozen car nuts, I have just one spot there, a friend has at least five cars in there. 
Cheers!
@davidsxj6 :
can you tell us a little more abut the crane ?
It seems to be rolling allon rails on the walls ?
I‘ll never forget one picture you shared with a dim flashlight illuminating a little bit of car and otherwise complete darkness
@xjsv12coupe, L beams (white) run along the walls secured in M12? anchors (ideally countersunk) that are secured chemically.
The moving H beam (green) runs on ball bearings carrying the weight and more ball bearings keeping it at 90° to and theoretically keeping the L beams from coming off the wall, they can’t go anywhere. The red part is store bought.
It might be improved if it ran on load rated rubberised wheels, and it is very important that the beams are straight, an engine would probably want to move a certain direction if it’s just slightly crooked. This is noticeable when the H beam bends under heavy load and the red piece wants to stay at the center. It can lift at least a ton without me getting nervous, and I have a tendency not to trust such things.
Overhead gantry crane , incredibly versatile, I operated one in a power station, it could lift 225 tonnes.
M16 it is. We adjusted the L-beams parallel to each other, underbuilding the L-beams accordingly. Then we filled the back with Hilti-hit which hardens fast, fixing the L-beams parallel. The side rollers are adjustable to keep the middle beam perpendicular. Works fine. If I were to do it again, I‘d use bigger bearings to make it s bit more stable when running the length of the garage. We optimized the height to get absolutely as high as possible. My garage is not a squared footprint, more of a parallelogram.
This may be a stabilization for the H-beam issue, both on the L-angles and for the H-beam itself. Use two H-beams (potentially even use slightly lighter weight and strength as there will now be two of them) connected at each end, rolling on the wall L-angles.
Then have short cross H-beam captive between the two main H-beams (so it can’t accidentally fall out) and each end rolls on the two main H-beams.
The red thing could then ride on the short H-beam for minor adjustments, or eliminate the red thing and replace it with a fixed hook/eye at the center of the short H-beam.
The latter (fixed hook/eye) would provide the same movement you now have, while the red thing would provide lateral adjustment without having to slide the main H-beams.
That would still provide the same x-y movement on the horizontal plane, but with more stability.
The above said … I like your idea of having a beam, supported by the walls, for use. 
It just bends. If the H beam was taller it would be stiffer, your idea isn’t bad either but it was heavy and expensive enough as it is, just something to be aware of. I do like your idea.
The red thing (we call it a cat, what do you say?) gives the safest and smallest way to have a stable and load rated hook.
There’s 0mm between the beam and the light over the bench.
The bending is acceptable with a 4.2 and transmission, lifting a car it might try to center the car which one would have to be aware of.
The bearings are steel on steel which is just loud but I think the crane turned out really well.
