Tony, Peder, Dave et al.
Definitely this was was no small undertaking.
My install procedure was very similar to Tony’s.
I did end up aligning with packing shims as required all 4 window frames for correct height, parallel side channels, compression of weatherstripping around the doors and operation of windows so that they would fall down naturally by gravity with the regulators removed without binding. This was a fairly important first step in the process.
Then accurate measurements were taken from the outer face of the installed glass windows to the waist rail chrome strips at all 5 mounting screw locations on all 4 doors. The original seals had shrunk enough over time that there was no longer any contact with the glass.
After that, I lowered all windows so that all the chrome strip mounting screws could be unscrewed.
Followed by removal of all four window frame assemblies so that the remaining top screw at all four chrome strips could be removed. The top screw at the front on the front doors and at the rear on the rear doors. Window frames first then chrome strip/seal assemblies second.
After removal of the chrome strips all 4 were cleaned of old seal and the new oversized and overly tight SNG seals were installed using red rubber grease to assist and by using a dull blade screwdriver a 1/4" at a time. The seals were left slightly long fore and aft. This was a long long process due to the oversize issue of the SNG seals.
The 4 seal and chrome strip assemblies were then measured for total width on the bench. Amazingly it was fairly consistent with all 4 assemblies and at various points within the assemblies. By deduction the right size of shim was determined. The shims that fit are the same size as the U-shaped frame packing shims used between the top of the door and the glass frame. 3/4" x 1/2"
I used some of the 1/32" and 3/64" thick shims but mostly they were less than that from 0.010" upwards in 0.005 increments.
The shims were attached to the outside face of the chrome strips with silicone adhesive, for easy removal which would required several times in some cases.
Next, all window and glass frame assemblies were reinstalled into the doors into the already pre-determined alignment positions. The single top chrome strip mounting screw at all four doors was pre-tightened to just allow the chrome strips to engage and be disengaged into and out of position as need be without any further removal or disturbance of the properly positioned frame assemblies.
The chrome strips would then be carefully laid and slid into position and the inner face mounting screws fitted.
I found it necessary to increase the mounting screw size from the #4 AWG originals to a #6 AWG for a more secure hold.
After preliminary installation the seals were carefully trimmed to the exact length to be snug against the Bailey channel rubbers. I found that a small amount of gasoline on a rag and wetting the matt knife allowed for a smooth cut.
I didn’t know how small a gap would work for preventing water ingress into the door cavity or how tight the seal could be against the glass without sticking. So the first step was to aim for zero clearance between the glass and wiping edge of the seal…
Next, at each mounting screw location at all four doors, feeler gauge measurements were taken between the face of the glass and the wiper seal contact edge.
Generally in most locations the gap ended up being between 005" and 015" thou. Even though I had aimed for zero. I suspect that firm tightening of the mounting screws accounted for this discrepancy
Anything more than 005" gap and the water went in easily!
Then the chrome strips were removed and the shims were increased in thickness where required and after much back and forth experimentation I found that somewhere between negative 5 and 10 thou was required to seal well but not bind the glass. So an interference fit of 5 to 10 thousands of an inch.
This is much less than the 1 or 2mm found by Tony.
The issue is that the SNG seals are about 60 to 70 Shore A scale durometer. Too hard for this application and significantly harder and less flexible than the Scott seals which I estimate about 30 to 40 Shore A.
EPDM rubber also has a high surface tension and noticeably higher friction dry when compared to the original Neoprene seals.
I tested coatings of, dry and wet silicone film, dry PTFE film and Rain-X applied to the wiping edge of the seal. Compared to no coating, the silicones were about the same friction, Teflon was higher friction surprisingly and the Rain-X was a bit less friction and works well for now.
In conclusion, a lot of time was spent trying to overcome an oversize and fundamentally incorrect wiper seal product for the application.
The factory didn’t have to use shims, take detailed measurements or spend hours fitting per door!
I’ve got it to work for now with resolve as have apparently many Etype and early XJ owners that use the same aftermarket seals.
But I’m irritated and I am going to give the Scott’s seals a go and have high hopes and a degree of confidence that they’ll work much better.
I will of, course, do it one door a time, this time around!
Nick
