My SIII V12 OTS has sat in storage from 1991 until 2021. I moved it into my hobby shop for restoration in 2021. When parked, the pump worked fine. Of course that was 30 years ago. I don’t wanna risk putting it back in the car in as-is condition.
Replacement pump from SNG Barratt is $340
Power Steering Pump Seal Kit from SNG Barratt (518564J) is $24
The pump is a Saginaw. GM used them in virtually everything is the 60’s and 70’s.
If I did my research correctly, the Borgeson 800310 is the correct replacement pump
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1964-1973 Chevrolet Chevelle Power Steering Pump - Borgeson 800310
Part Number: 800310
Brand: Borgeson
Notes: Power Steering Pump – Black Powder Coated Reservoir; Saginaw Self Contained With Keyway Shaft
Condition: New
Hose Port Type: 0.625 in. -18 Inverted Flare
Pulley Attachment Type: Bolt-On
Pulley Included: No
Reservoir Included: Yes
Shaft Type: 0.625 in. Key Way Shaft
If this is the correct unit it is $165 (half of Baratt’s price)
QUESTIONS: Replace - is the Borgeson the correct unit?
Rebuild - The kit from Barratt is $24, O’Reilly’s price is $10 How difficult / What special tools are needed to rebuild the pump – which looks to be just a handful of o-rings and a bearing (he said innocently)
I am inclined to buy new – I have enough small bits that need attention – unless a rebuild is straight-forward
I can’t say if that is the correct pump. But if it is truly just a Chevelle power steering pump, you can do a whole lot better than $165. Check rock auto for several options under $50. I didn’t go very far down the rabbit hole, but the Borgeson seems to be sold by places like Summit and Jegs, which tells me it may be some sort of a “premium” unit, I’m unclear if it’s a reman are actually a new unit. personally, I wouldn’t hesitate to use a reman from a reputable name like Cardone. Just my .02.
I grabbed that make/model as being universally well known.
The Borgeson 800310 (same price regardless of make/model) was also used on:
71-73 Buick Centurion
62-72 Buick Skylark
68-74 Buick LeSabre
68-74 Buick Riviera
61-74 Chevy Impala
I searched on-line at O’Reilly’s, AutoZone and another for Jag PS Pump. No Joy
Just looked at RockAuto
No listing for 72 Jag XKE PS pump
Rebuild kit is only $7
Searching for 72 Centurion
Reman’d pumps range from $50-$80
New pumps - only one option Lares 12093 for $145 (others available but without reservoir or with chrome accents)
RockAuto apparently features BBB, Lares, Cardone
Also, spoke to 2 machinists I have used on jag parts; neither could recommend a guy in C Springs as rebuilder.
One said trying to rebuild it myself required extreme attention to detail – lots of small bits inside.
Hmmm. Well, I probably wouldn’t want to mess with rebuilding one. Sort of like rebuilding a power steering rack. Many have done it successfully, but I’m just not that interested lol. Maybe that’s code for lazy.
It might be worth a shot to buy the one for the Centurion, etc. Heck you could probably get it from Amazon. Then if it’s a no-go return it and go with the Borgesson. The other thing may be that the reservoir on the eType is different. But that’s easily swapped from your existing pump.
I repaired a Saginaw power steering pump many years ago, because it was leaking and there was virtually nothing in there as I recall, just a couple of gears & seals and a valve
In my opinion you have nothing to lose by at least dismantling and putting new seals
just refreshed my memory by checking the FSM for my car (420G), and it seems simple as I recall
You may indeed have to do nothing provided it has fluid that is not contaminated, just refresh the fluid
How’s the reassembly going? Making good headway with the new wiring?
There are a number of GM components on S3 E-types, the power steering (Saginaw) being one was used on numerous GM vehicles. There are many variations of the same pump.
Probably the easiest for you is to obtain a rebuilt pump body assembly. They’re available for around $50 ± from most parts box stores. What you need to pay attention to is the pump body part number. That’s critical. If numbers don’t match — pass…
Disassemble your old pump keeping everything in a ziploc bag. If available in your area have the housing powder coated (outside and about 1/2" inside). NAPA carries new Cap/Dipstick assemblies.
The last item to compare are the mounting points. New and old pump assembly should match. Valve assemblies are also available.
Re-manufactured pumps come complete with the pump-to-housing sealing O-ring and the small mount point O-rings making replacement an easy task.
You might take your old inner pump assembly to your local NAPA store. They may have a replacement in stock.
Dick – your close up photo clearly shows the pump body part number I need to be careful to match.
Unfortunately - it is so close-up I can’t determine where on the pump the pump body part number is found. Do I need to remove the reservoir in order to see it?
I read the pump body part number as 5698119 – correct?
This is a general part explosion view of the saginaw pump. Note the two reservoir styles.
It’s a pretty simple pump to overhaul but in your case buying a pump body ready to install would probably save you a bunch of time. Also most internal components have been replaced! The numbers are cast into the pump body.
Hope this clarifies where to find the pump body number. 6798119
You may also refer to the ROM page 57.20.20 which covers pump disassembly and overhaul. The first part show how to remove the pump casting from the reservoir housing. Take lots of photos as you remove each fitting would be my suggestion.
One thing to consider is how the quality of newer parts has been going down over the last 10 or 20 years as production moved overseas. I ve lost track of the number of new parts, e-type or other, that have failed prematurely. No later than this week, I had a one year old MTU diesel starter fail to engage. It proudly carried a “made in china” label next to the MTU label.
So while new may make you feel good… it may not be the best solution
I opted with the East Coast Jag solution for a professional rebuild.
Have already sent it off for rebuild/restoration (I know – many have said it is straightforward but I have a horrorful track record when removing cast iron pulleys)
Besides, I already have too many small assemblies laying about in pieces or awaiting becoming pieces
Thanks for asking
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