Small part needed!

Hi All, My E type has had a loose passenger side door since I got it a year and a half ago. Didn;t seem a big deal so I dealt with other stuff first. Last week I removed the interior door panels and started feeling around inside, expecting to find a screw… as it happened I found a bolt and a washer, but nothing else. Even tried in the tough areas with a magnet. So - I looked online… Martin Robey shows this:

Martin Robey suggests that if I want this I would need to purchase both door handles - apparently this is a part “associated” with the handle (notice it has no number on the diagram). I’ve circled the missing part - looks like a stud, but a friend has said that it might be a stud that has a “wedge” at the back side that has been hammered in… I’d reference this from the other door, but I dropped the car yesterday for bodywork.

Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks - cheers - B

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Correction - I didn’t find a “bolt”, I found a “nut”. Oops! :flushed:

Depending on why the nut fell off …

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I can’t remember the thread pitch, but I’d guess it’s #10-28. If you’re missing the stud try threading a screw of that size in. If it goes in, then remove it and cut the head off, dress the threads and thread it in with some Loctite to hold it. Now you can apply a washer and nut to hold it on the door…

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Thanks - yeah, the stud is entirely missing… (as far as I can see - could be cut off at the handle I suppose). Good toi hear it’s a screw - I’ll give that a try - Thanks again!

@jerrypeck - good to know… I’ll presume that this solution is going to be the one I need to deal with as it’s more involved… :joy:

Thanks!

I think standard size and thread would put a #10 machine screw as either 10-32 (fine) or 10-24 (coarse).

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I was thinking about this again and, I think, ‘screws’, as in machine screws readily available at hardware stores are grade 2. You would need to go to a fully threaded bolt (“fully threaded bolt” here in the US, a “set screw” in UK, etc, and Jaguar parts catalogues) to get a grade 5 or grade 8.

I’m not sure I would put much faith in the longevity of a grade 2 screw with shear and bending forces on it. You could probably find a grade 8 cap head screw of that size, cutting the cap head off if space requires it to be used as a stud.

Thanks Jerry! I’ll have a go with the 8 cap head …that should work well. The size and thread were the problem. Thanks for your help! Much appreciated.

Bruce, I’ve been meaning to ask: how much space is ‘behind the pivot point’ where the arm moves in its arc?

I ask because if there is enough space to clear a 1/16" to 1/8" thick “washer” on the back of that pivot point, then instead of cutting the head off, grind/cut the head down to 1/16" to 1/8" (1/8" is stronger) to create a “washer head” screw (of course, though, the internal hex or torx would be gone, but once it is screwed in and thread-locked or brazed in place, it’s not going anywhere).

That ‘backing washer head’ will add a lot of strength to the arm and screw at the pivot point to resist bending/flexing.

There is a shoulder on the front side which will help too, in addition to its main purpose of spacing the piece which goes on from hitting the arm behind.

Those little details can add a lot, provided there is space for it.

Jerry it is 3/16 unf ( 10/32) ….just jet a longer 3/16 setscrew and chop off head to corrrect length and screw into handle ……use washer and nut to secure from inside

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Indeed!

Gr. 8 not needed.

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well it depends. If you regularly drive through active mine fields or occasionally exceed earth’s escape velocity…then maybe… :thinking:

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No, but sometimes one can find “just what they are looking for” in Grade 8 when they were looking for Grade 5 simply because of what a hardware store has in stock.

At least I’ve found that on occasion.

they get lost because the nut corrodes to the stud and when you take the handles off instead of unboliting the nut, you unwind the stud from the handle. Then you misplace the dang thing.

The stud is so small you can’t grasp it in anything to remove the nut. I messed with if for a while and then decided the existing handles did not look good enough against the fresh paint anyway. So, Purchased a set from SNG.

I would check a good hardware store for the stud.

Incidentally, the replacements were just a bit too snug to fit the door hole, took a little sanding and filing of the holes. And I think it may have been as dumb as the replacements having dome head screws instead of flat screws holding in the lock assembly. But, by the time I noticed that, I had managed to fit the new units.

Sure, and so am I! My point was, in that particular position, there’s no mechanical need nor advantage to using a Gr. 8 fastener.

I completely agree.

I was only pointing out standard machine screws are Grade 2.

A valid point: I would definitely not use a grade 2 in that position.

I don’t believe, with all the suggestions, you’ll have a hard time finding something, but another thought, if you know someone, an MGB door handle should have the same stud that you could remove and use. A little more plentiful!

You can also just use a short 10/32 bolt.

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