You don’t have to have the SU book if you have the repair manual, but a little collection is always good - the auto choke is a common kit, I wouldn’t touch anything that runs. Especially for now 
Henrik,
congratulations again in a car that leaves an impression of being well-kept and solid.
Your carb setup is correct for early SII cars. These are twin SU HS8 carbs and, arguably, the best overall carb equipment Jaguar had on the XK engine. The later SU HIF7 were more compact and more “safe” as regards emission control, but seem to be prone to specific failure modes the HS series doesn’t suffer from. Just in case you don’t have the OM: you need the BCX needles.
A PO has swapped the upper part of the Automatic Enrichment Device for a well-known kit that replaces the bi-metallic strip controlling the lower part aux carb by a cable driven cam shaft operating the fuel and air supply of said aux carb. An additional fuel filter is a reasonable way of protecting the carbs from debris - have you had a chance to look underneath the panel behind the spare wheel compartment? There should be two SU fuel pumps.
As for the engine, the differences in compression should be tolerable for the moment. Regarding the plugs it might be open whether the Volvo plug is a cause for the sooting and grimy thread or whether the problem lies in the thread and the volo plug is a somewhat doubtful attempt to fix the problem. Anyway, as decent plugs are inexpensive and super easy to change on your engine, I wouldn’t even think about and just do it. Take care though to clean up the “valley” from debris before pulling the plugs, then clean the threads with an oily and lint free rag. BTW, the SII OM indicates Champion N11Y (different from N12Y for 4.2 litre-engines!). On many compatibility lists NGK BP5ES are listed as substitutes for both though.
The leaks are just about normal for any of these cars that have been sitting for some time. Regular use might reactivate many seals. Red fluid is ATF which is used both in the auto box and in the power steering. The p/s has a reputation for leaking.
As David writes - just make appropriate use of the car, and as you use it you’ll see what it really needs. As long as things work - let them do their job and don’t get confused by marketing noise like “you gotta have an oil cooler or a super-radiator or three extra fans”.
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
Right, and with antiseize and not too tight - the aluminium strips easily.
The volvo plug is not the sooty one but let’s worry about that when the new plugs look the same after driving around for a bit.
Kimman Amsterdam B.V.
Sales: Stadhouderskade 100 - 101
Workshop Jaguar Gaaspstraat 51
tel. ++31 20 448 150
(as per BL Cars Limited, Service in Europe, June 1980)
Might try calling them and arrange for a 3000 mls regular service on the Jag they recently sold:-)
Indeed, they still exist, sell Jaguars, but the phone line has changed https://kimman.nl/contact/
Best
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
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To stress, Henrik - as David says; on the xk engine the front cylinder, nearest the radiator is #6
The mix of plugs is unlikely to have caused any damage, but Jochen has valid point; carefully check plug threads. When installing the new plugs; the plugs must be entered by hand to avoid cross threading - and, indeed, it should be possible to set the plugs by hand only. A socket is needed to fully seat the plugs, of course, but if required to turn the plug at earlier stages; a thread cleaning tool should be considered. Which may also be used to rectify previous cross threading…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
For new plugs I use what ngk print on the carton, for reuse I get them just tight, no force at all, smallest wrench. Never a problem.
I always clean the threads of bolts or nuts before putting them back, and I always do by hand until torquing to spec. Hopefully these are to be found in the repair operations manual.
The threads do seem fine. I cleaned the spark plug wells using break cleaner, vacuum cleaner and so on, not letting any grime fall down into the cylinder.
I found a tool called a thread chaser, is that the tool?
I have ordered a steering wheel from a breaker/wrecker 
Only one gas tank is working atm, only one fuel pump. Not original. Boot looks fine.
I used an endoscope to go down into the tank not being used. Quite hard to steer the thing around in there.
Things from space
I didn’t find much more rust than this, but as stated, difficult to maneuver the camera down there.
I found a picture of the flame trap, for future reference. I am not the one selling it on ebay, if anyone who reads this wants a flame trap for a series 3, go to ebay.com and do a search. number 233296409410
The satellite is the level sender unit 
Remove it and see if it moves though the whole arch.
Tank looks okay, you’ll need a new pump and blow through the line down out the tank.
Hi,
But there are ways to go around it. With certain settings power output will be limited (choke inlets and retard ignition) and dyno papers can be made to satisfy the authoroties (Trafikverket?).
Cheers!
Ps. I have friends with street legal VW Beetles that do a 1/4 mile under 11 seconds, one does it in 8.6sec and has 650 DIN HP and over 500Nm torque but obviously very different setting for the MOT/TÜV inspection in the Motec ECU.
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It is indeed, Henrik - just make sure it is the right thread…
But the length of the threaded part of the plug shown must surely be too short for the aluminium headed xk. If used, it has two effects; the bottom part of the head threads will be very dirty - and it will lower the compression during the compression testing…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
I would start by installing the plugs and not worry about a thread chaser or anything like that. It’s just another xk engine that gets a new set of plugs. Don’t overtighten and don’t cross-thread, and use a bit of antiseize. Done!
I don’t know whether a chaser is needed or not. I am just happy to learn there’s such a tool 
I did look up antiseize though:
5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs
1. Anti-seize
NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.
Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.
Interesting! I still use antiseize and nothing will explode as long as they’re not overtorqued. They would need a lower torque setting, but I’m not hammering them in with a big machine, just snug them up by hand so never a problem.
Haven’t needed a chaser yet but they’re pretty useful in many situations, I’m sure!
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Well, in Sweden, after they turn 50, no more MOT…
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Ditto: I’ve used anti-seize on NGKs and other makes of plugs, for over 40 years, and never had a single problem. That’s on thousands of spark plugs.
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If you’re like me, the only problem you’ve had with spark plugs is getting them out when some other goober installed them in an aluminum head without anti-seize! I don’t care what NGK recommends, I will not install anything threaded into aluminum without anti-seize!
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Since there seems to be a consensus on the use of anti-seize, what is the best stuff? Nickel, ceramic?
I bought a steering wheel, pretty nice condition.
It came with two conical halves, I guess it’s for the assembly.
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I have copper but anything works well.