I want to start my engine on a stand to confirm that it will start and I need to confirm the distributor/coil wiring. Why, you ask? It’s a freshly built engine that hasn’t been broken in yet. I have the opportunity to borrow a run stand from a pro, but I can only borrow it for a couple of days, so I can’t be mucking around with carbs and spark. I’d like to, at least, confirm I have spark. If it fires once, I’ll be happy.
So, 4.2 negative earth/ground. Confirmed oil pressure.
Do I run a wire from the battery to the + terminal on the coil and a wire from the - coil terminal to the distributor? I have a remote trigger between the 2 terminals of the mini-starter.
As per my knowledge, To confirm spark on your freshly built engine using the run stand, connect a wire from the battery’s positive terminal to the positive (+) terminal on the coil. Then, connect another wire from the negative (-) terminal on the coil to the distributor. Use the remote trigger between the mini-starter’s terminals as planned. This setup should allow you to verify ignition without dealing with carburetors initially.
That sounds correct but you will need a cable from the engine to the battery for whatever side you are using as a ground in order for the ignition and starter to operate.
I’m also about to run the engine for the first time.
For this - I’ve made a panel with switches - to keep wiring tidy.
I need power for fuel pump, AED / choke solenoid and ignition circuit. Last comes the Start pushbutton.
As an accessory - a timing light !
First start will be without water pump, later on I will add coolant to see if block plugs hold the pressure.
Still … I’m somewhat scared. Hope this trolley won’t run away by itself. Fortunately it’s wheels have brakes …
Thank you for confirming! The run stand I’m going to borrow has all of the switches and gauges. My current set up is just a wooden platform for rolling it around the garage, but it should be stable enough for a quick start & shut off. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge attached for now.
Oil, fuel, spark… but no fire. I’m guessing my timing is off a bit. I rotated the engine to show about where the timing gun flashes on #1 (rear plug). I set it up at TDC, but it looks like it may be firing at 5* after TDC if rotating clockwise. It should be 10* BTDC, right?
Check points gap. Verify exactly where TDC is by removing No.1 plug and observing piston up/down then chsck your pointer agrees with this. I would use a multimeter or test light to establish static timing - not sure of your engine but 8-10 before sounds about right. Check firing order - dizzy turns anti clockwise.
Ive never understood the logic behind running an engine before you install it in the car.
Seems you will need to R&R the intake and exhaust manifolds, with added costs of gaskets.
It doesn’t seem like you’re really saving any time, as you have to hook all the needed components and electrics up in order to get it to run.
You’ll still have to put it in the car.
Thorswhisper - Let me explain. It’s a lot easier to identify, and fix, leaks and other problems outside of a tight engine bay. It’s unlikely that I’ll need to replace any gaskets that I wouldn’t also need to replace in situ, but those gaskets are cheap. This car won’t be drivable for a long, long time and the wiring was shot anyway. Doing it this way, I have peace of mind that everything works and will be ready to go when the car is, and I can fire it up whenever I want and keep it covered from dust, paint and other debris while I work on the car, including the engine bay.
If you want an example, there’s a YouTuber building a Mk2 with a rebuilt engine and has had to take take his carbs and intake off several times, water pump several times, radiator in and out, and has been fighting electrical problems and tried to build custom brackets and brake system with the engine in place… all fighting a tight space and trying to find, and fix, water, oil, and fuel leaks. All of those are super easy to manage outside of the car, plus changing the oil after the initial break-in run is easier, too.
