My set screw / bolt was misplaced when my broken clamp was machined. Anyone with pictures and dim. Or better yet an extra screw. Any help appreciated.
Regards,
Gust Nelson
Sorry MK IV Saloon 1948
The clamp arrangement had it’s shortcomings
Usually ow the alloy splines on the wheel may be a bit worn, the clamp doesn’t tighten enough and the wheel has some slight movement on the column. which just wears the wheel more
AS I don’t need to continually alter the position of the wheeI just put a 1/4"BSF bolt through and tighten it with a small socket set into the desired position. If you want to look like you have the clamp but want the wheel nice and tight , one can substitute a hex nut for the knurled one and tighten that with a small socket… The screw the knurled nut on over that… for appearance. The original bolt wasn’ t a standard bolt . I’ll try and get a photo for you
Perhaps this helps!
I second Eds advice.
Overall length is 1- 7/8".
Peter.
My thanks to Peter and Ed. Will be able to go forward with knowledge and dimensions.
Gust
Hi Peter, Ed, and anyone else with such detailed knowledge. A couple of questions on the clamp.
What is the means of holding the eye pin in place? Is this threaded in the rod bolt and free on the clamp handle or other means such as press fit on rod bolt or handle clevis points? Really, can you describe the pin design in more detail and how it is held.
What is the offset from center on the clamp 1/4" hole on handle? It seems from the photo there is some cam action on closing the clamp handle to keep the handle from flopping open when in latched position.
Thanks!
I think the eye pin is simply retained because the pivoted arm is mounted in a recess in the alloy steering wheel boss. I think there is also a small compression spring missing from Peter’s photo (between items 4 and 9 below) Curiously it is unlabeled in the attached drawing also. There is cam action to prevent the lever from flopping about.
Peter
.
If you need to make one, perhaps part 6065K131 here:
Moss Motors has 1/4 BSF dies.
Or if you are willing to use a UNC thread, part 6066K31.
I wouldn’t use a UNC [ or Whit ] thread , the finer thread will clamp more firmly
… and even better if you use a socket instead of a knurled nut .
Hi folks, indeed the mention to go with fine thread seems correct. As well, I’ve been looking over rod end bolt blanks as a starting point, such as the one Rob suggests. That bolt blank is almost a good start but lacks the shank diameter needed for the square cross section. I see the square cross section as needed for torque reaction when tightening the nut. It seems a 3/8" shank is needed to get the 1/4" square section, and that make the eye end more trouble to machine since the blanks are larger diameter there. More thoughts?
I’d suggest square or rectangular section stock and a 4 jaw chuck.
Or have the basis water jet or laser cut from 6 mm Mild steel.
One could get the D washer done at the same time if feeling a bit lazy. { I think of it as delegating work]
The washer shown is a Thackeray washer [ provides tension without locking up]
Fellow pedants,
We know that BURMAN DOUGLAS made the steering box and column for our SS and Mark IV cars but how confident are we that Bluemels made the SS and Mark IV steering wheels? I have two old wheels that appear (vaguely) to have the letters DOUGLAS inset into the celluloid on the back of the rim. Anyone else discovered likewise? Cheers, John Clucas
I’ll answer my own question here. I see that a 1.5L Mark IV sales brochure mentions the steering including a Bluemels Douglas spring-blade adjustable steering wheel. That answers that, sort of.
John
Looked at the one on my '38 and I see DOUGLAS PAT PENDING on the rim, and BLUEMELS with some numbers that might be patents on a spoke, but difficult to read upside down in a mirror.