That’s quite intwresting idea but… Let’s say that anti-seize is not compatible with rubber
Does anyone have PCP air rifle stashed under the bed or in children’s play room? If so - you will probably know that thin o-ring assembled gently by hand is enough to hold 150Bar of air pressure (2000+ psi). Do you really believe that oil filter must resist even more?
It won’t vibrate loose, the seal is locking it against the face of the plate - that’s why it’s designed flat (o-ring can move). Thread in the plate is not designed to have any hold apart from appication of force to the filter’s seal…
Same type of filters are mounted in helicopters where all the nuts are secured with lock wire - apart from filter itself.
If Jaguar spec states 3/4 of the turn from contact point - it was written by an idiot and approved by his apprentice. Alternatively copied from original design from 70s where filter’s gasket was 'slightly different than these days design.
I’m agreeing with Janusz. Often times I can unscrew the Mann filter by hand. That’s after about 7,000 miles. (I use synthetic oil)
If you consistently have issues unscrewing your filters, you are screwing them on too far. Ease it back a little. Janusz is right, the oil pressure it needs to seal against isn’t high enough to cause concern. Worst case is that there’s a small drip of oil that starts to come out. At that point, you can tighten it up… A LITTLE!
You read my mind on that bit, as I noticed one or two members previously mentioned “3/4 turn”. However, in the Jag factory workshop literature it advises “3/8-1/2 turn” for a 4.0 filter. I know it is common in some other makes to go 3/4 turn, but is the above range truly correct? Also, one of the videos I watched on unsticking oil filters mentioned that there should be “quarter increments” shown on the casing (i.e. “1”, “2”, “3” and “4” at each of the 90-degree positions). These markings are to help make sure that you tighten the filter the correct amount of turn, not too little and not too much. The YouTuber recommended on filters that do not have these markings to use a magic marker to make the markings on the case before installation. Frankly, if these markings are on filters that I have installed in my younger days I must not have realized they were there, or what their purpose was. I just now checked my new Jaguar-brand filter and, sure enough, they are NOT there …
Yep, there’s a video on those, too (and I found out last night that WM sells them here). Again, that YouTuber’s unhappy experience was that the gizmo just crushed the casing of the filter on that end, complicating the removal process for him.
Hmmmm, VK … 7K miles … I’m thinking I’ve put almost 4x that much on Superblue since her last filter change (assuming the PO changed it in the last few K miles before i bought her), so no wonder it’s stuck on so tightly (?)
Interesting footnote to this … I was in WM earlier and was looking at their (Fram) filter selection … I picked up one for another make of car to examine … I did notice some “stray” markings on it, but not the type that apparently indicate quadrants of the casing. Also, thought it strange that the instructions for installing same call for a FULL turn after point of contact. wth?
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
51
Let’s try not to get picky. If you’ll look at the base of an oil filter, there is a rubber sealing ring that’s crimped into a recess. When you screw the filter on, it’s the rubber sealing ring that makes contact first. The next 3/4 of a turn or so are simply compressing that rubber. Eventually the rubber is compressed enough that something metal in that base makes contact. From then on, further tightening is simply putting more force on that metal contact – which accomplishes nothing. You can safely stop tightening anywhere in the rubber compression range. It won’t leak, and it won’t wiggle loose.
That just shows that he was going to have trouble no matter what.
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
53
OK, in theory, if nothing else works, could you just rip the can completely off, leaving just the thicker base in place, and then use a hammer and drift to get it loose?
1 Like
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
54
I know we all apply a bit of motor oil to that rubber seal prior to installing. Any chance that oil is what’s causing the rubber seal to adhere to the flange on the engine? Maybe it’d be a better idea to wipe something else on that seal. That red grease intended for rubber parts in brake systems might be good.
Not sure about that method, but as mentioned, one of them took a Dremel tool to it to try to cut away the base plate, apparently without complete success. I think I mentioned he was only able to finally get it off by fabricating a “removal tool” using Play-Doh to make an impression “cast” of the base plate (and, most importantly, its 6? holes). He then used that “cast” to grind down a large socket so that six protrusions/“fingers” were left sticking up that corresponded to the location and size of the holes. The final result looked kind of like a castle nut (but in socket form). He could then fit the “fingers” into the holes in the plate and crank it off using his socket wrench. Pretty ingenious.
Had Superblue about 5 years now, VK. NOW that I know the filter can be replaced “from above”, believe me it will be changed MUCH more often (assuming this initial attempt is a success). I was not so worried the last couple of years or so about it b/c, as you may recall on here, I had major leak issues with the valve cover gasket (and “half moon” seals) back then. As a result, I was having to put in a fresh quart of oil (or more) almost weekly, so it was like my oil was constantly being “changed”/fresh. . Then I bit the bullet and changed the gasket and seals all on my own. Even torqued the cover down using Jag’s new tightening sequence it put out in '94 (IIRC) using a borrowed torque wrench (the “click” type). Probably the most major mechanical work I have ever done personally on any of my Jags, and was proud of it when done (btw, they are still holding up 100% ). Wish I had that much courage/confidence on other needed work, but with the guidance on here, I’m gradually developing it …
I still wonder about just using anti-seize, although I think it is designed for metal-metal applications – not sure how it would affect rubber/polyurethane (as I think someone brought up earlier).
Frankly, if these markings are on filters that I have installed in my younger days I must not have realized they were there, or what their purpose was. 
I just now checked my new Jaguar-brand filter and, sure enough, they are NOT there … 
Probably the most major mechanical work I have ever done personally on any of my Jags, and was proud of it when done (btw, they are still holding up 100% 
