Stuck transmission


(ajdell) #1

The tranny on my 69 4 speed is stuck in gear and won’t release. The clutch was stuck to the fly wheel but I broke the bond free by bumping the starter button as I have the car elevated on wooden cradles for winter work.It has been humid this winter and corrosion did its thing. All the clutch hydraulics are functioning . If I bump the car with clutch suppressed no movement, with clutch not depressed car will move. When I stored car last fall all was fine. Unsure which gear care is in as stick shifter will not move at all. Any suggestions other than trying to push the car once wheels on ground in attempt to free tranny would be appreciated. Car has 26000 miles on a complete restoration .purchase…


(Mitchell Andrus) #2

Remove the tunnel and the top of the transmission. Free up individual parts first in the top’s shifter rods and detent (interlock) balls, then the syncro collars. The collars typically won’t get stuck, way too much oil down there.

I’m thinking the interlock or a rod at the top is a bit dry and sticky.


(67 OTS S1) #3

As I recall, in neutral all the shift levers should be in line so the gear shift can move left or right and then up or down to engage a gear. is one shift lever (moves the gear in and out) seem to be engaged?

I’d be careful not to force anything. I’m not sure this is a great idea but it may require a mineral spirit or kerosene bath to remove any gunk that is creating the stuck gears. Then a good flush with fresh oil.


(Terry Sturgeon) #4

I don’t think your transmission is stuck nor is it in two gears, it’s probably the shift linkage is stuck, though I’m having trouble seeing how that could happen. I’d start and run the car on jackstands in the gear it’s in, clutch not depressed and let the oil in the transmission warm up and splash around and see if that loosens things up.


(ajdell) #5

I got it fixed! Tried heating the operating sleeves with a heat gun and the gently tapped with a wood block and both moved into neutral .Must of been sticking due to activity. Now shifts perfectly when tranny top is installed. Now unto the slave cylinder replacement. Fortunately restorer installed a stud for one of the nuts and easy install.
Thanks for tips in diagnosis in solving the problem


(Nick Saltarelli) #6

Good stuff, Alan. I second Michael’s suggestion. Likely you’ve got varnish buildup that a complete drain and mineral spirits wash would help clear up. Your fresh Redline lube will be reusable,


(ajdell) #7

Sure is satisfying for a novice like me to find and fix the problem. As I said to you last week the theme song is “Getting to know you”. I’ll call you next week so I can drop by and return your scope. I think I’ll have a peak down the cylinders for mice nests!


(Mitchell Andrus) #8

If you’ve got the short actuating rod, be sure to also buy the longer one. You may need it, maybe not. I did.


(ajdell) #9

I just figured out I need the longer rod. Went from longer to earlier shorter slave cylinder Where did you get yours.
Thanks


(Mitchell Andrus) #10

Clutch rod, XKs. # CO-9798. You can make one if you can find a bolt with a really long shank and the proper threads.

While you’re at it, Welshnet for uprated front motor mnts. #C-18556-H-PR


(Benny) #11

I also made my own bought the bolt 6" long at
https://www.boltdepot.com/Hex_bolts_Stainless_steel_316_5_16-24.aspx


(Mitchell Andrus) #12

A couple of bucks each isn’t bad as long as the shipping isn’t another $14.00. :joy:

If you can weld, you can make one just about for free.