Although I’m sure that your ordeal had to be exhausting the Jaguar spring compressor can also be a bit of work. In fairness though, I mounted and dismounted my springs probably 4-5 times for various reasons and it got much easier once I got over the fear and better understood just how to do it. Good Job, though.
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Was more mentally exhausting than physical - making sure that the spring pan came off super slow and straight without putting too much strain on one stud.
I’m almost certain that reinstalling the springs will be found to be a bit more fatiguing, but no one said that taking breaks aren’t allowed.
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Good news, lower control arm is off. Guess I got lucky? Once castle nut was off, I simply pulled fulcrum bolt out by hand. The bolt still had grease on it.
Bad news, I’ve destroyed my 2 year old Lemforder lower ball joint and can’t get it out. 10lb hammer won’t budge it. What is that pickle fork that is recommended?
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You can get a picklefork loaner at an Advance Auto, Auto Zone, or O’reilleys.
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I take it you didn’t use anti seize on the ball joints. Even though only two years old, I’d replace them both.
On the joint shaft that fits in control arm? Can’t remember, I guess not! Will do this time around!
Yeah, I’ve ordered two new Lemforder lower ball joints. Also, I dont see how to preserve a ball joint trying to remove it. I guess no reason to remove unless one is replacing it. Luckily i can leave upper ball joint in place. I just wanted to clean/paint lower control arm with por15, which is why joint needs removing. At least Fulcrum bolt came out easy!
How to preserve ball joints: never, ever use a pickle fork on them!
Take out the cotter pin, loosen the nut, spin the nut up to the end of the Ball joint, and then take two hammers, put one on the outside of the lower steering knuckle, and then whack the hell out of it with another hammer on the side of the knuckle, next to the taper.
99 times out of 100, that will loosen the taper joint.
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You’ll be okay, there will likely be a few more setbacks before it’s a said and done.
Not so bad, I would have changed them regardless.
If the rubber boots make it through the extraction process unscathed keep them as spares, you never know if you might need them.
@gregma glad to see you’re tackling this! Lots of smarter people will give you better advice than I can. I will say I was able to get the subframe back in the car solo but I chose to leave everything off that I could. Brakes, calipers, springs etc. Of course if you’ve got help maybe easier to assemble off the car. The memory I have struggling the most with was lining up the motor mounts as I pivoted it back in. Good luck!
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Yes, I now see it will be easier for me to assemble everything off car, hubs included. It’s such a treat to be able to SEE everything and have ROOM for tools.
But this time I’m going to borrow a transmission jack and raise the subframe into place. Rotating down on front bushings worked OK on the way down, but I see that as torture trying to rotate back up into place. Also more chance to scratch/chip new paint.
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There are attachments, for a regular floor jack, that work well.
one of the French owners used a motorbike jack, with good results
probably not much more than a transmission jack , if you’ve got the room to store it ?
something like :this
I used a motorcycle jack like that one. Worked very well.
Harbor Freight has one for only $130. Looks like it would be perfect for subframe, would also be useful for rear suspension frame one day, and my fwd transmission on my Volvo one day. Probably help with a lot of other things on this car too. Thanks!
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so you did get the frame out by the front of the car ?
about what height did you raise the jacking points ?
as my garage is quite tight around the jag, I would have no choice other than backing the car into the garage, raise the front , and getting the subframe forward, in straight motion
I slid it out side of car, not front. I have about 5 feet of floor space side of car. I have no room in front, work bench is only two feet away.
