Hello
I would like to know whether and with how much NM you tighten the valve cover nuts or whether you do it with a simple torque wrench and by feel.
Thank you for your answers and greetings…
There is a spec but when you hand tighten you just need to know that once the cam cover bends it will never seal again, and it bends very easily. If you want absolutely perfectly leak tight annealed copper might not be enough.
[Hi David
What exactly do you mean?
How would you do that or recommend it?
If I loosen the nuts, can’t I get it tighter?
That would really annoy me.
The factory Service Manual for Series 2 XJ12 says torque on the cam cover nuts is 8.3 lbf/ft or 1,15 kgf/m and they are the same nuts as on XJ6.
Don’t over do it or you will distort the cover and possibly crack it.
If it’s leaking, take it off and do it right with new gasket, rear seal, and good quality gasket sealant. I use Permatex No. 2.
Thanks Rob
1,15kgf/m = round about 11Nm
Now I Know what i have to do
I mean that you should not tighten it more than 11nm if it leaks. Redo it if it leaks despite retorquing and anneal the washers when you redo it.
I agree, David - overtorqueing to eliminate a leak is no solution…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ
Good morning guys
I would like to change the seal and also use new copper rings.
I ask because I want to tighten it correctly once the work is done.
Not too strong and not too weak.
What do you think of sensitively tightening and tightening after the first ride?
How do you do it?
Maybe I put a little too much emphasis on little things like that, but I just don’t want to do anything wrong
The copper rings will be softer after annealing (‚weichglühen‘) and air cooling or quenching. They can be reused or use new. I tighten them and usually when it starts to become oily I snug them up just a little bit hoping that that helps. There are also other options for the washers such as some that have a kind of o ring inside which should seal better.
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It seems I’m not the only one for whom this is an issue 
Of course not but I don’t see it as an issue, prevents all kinds of rust 
I second this. Permatex #2 has solved MANY problems for me. Easy.
There is an alternative to the standard copper washer. Rob Beere Racing in the UK offers a replacement washer with a integral rubber seal ring. Basically the same style as a Stato-Seal.
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I was at the car and did everything
Someone who previously worked on the car used really weird rings, but now the right ones are in there.
I carefully tightened everything.
After the first ride I tighten everything again and then it’s done
I thank you for your support!!
You mean lock washers? Yeah that would be stupid.
As far as I know, these were fuses or washers for the fuel injectors
They were thin