pulled out quite a few Jaguar engines, and I cant recall draining any of them first,
nor spilling much oil, so you should be good after draining what you have
coolant will spill
could put an old blanket under there
Graham,
I don’t think so, there are no hidden chambers in the sump, you probably only had 5 liters, I always have an extra ½ liter above my high level on the dipstick. If you were running with 5liters it must have been rattling a bit on corners and uphill grades.
Hello All:
While reading the thread on using a tilt plate, I noticed some pictures of an engine being removed with the carburetors attached to the engine. My question is, is it possible to put a “S” engine with the 3 cabs attached into my 150 OTS.
Thank You
Denny Broughel
1958 XK 150 S
S831031DN
VS1142-9
Hi Denny,
I have never left the carburettors on when
removing or installing a “S” engine. That’s not answering
your question I know, but I think the carburettors could be a problem if
still on the engine.
John
Denny
That’s my engine with carbs on.I had done this several times and it worked fine ,however with a triple carb set up you could have issues with the rear carb hitting the firewall when engine is tilted, and also securing the front right engine mount could be a problem.
Its worth a try however, at least get the inlet manifold installed as the rear bolts are a real bitch to tighten once engine is in place .
First of all, Merry Christmas to all and I really want to thank everyone on here for all the help, advice and pictures.
OK, so I’ve got everything disconnected/removed from the engine , loosened the bolt in each of the mounts, fabricated and mounted the lifting brackets to the head bolts preparatory to hoisting it out in the New Year; so yet another question.
Is the tail of the overdrive secured to the main chassis crossmember in any way or does it just rest on a support rubber, or is it bolted?
This is a 1960 XK150FHC.
It just rests on the rubber block, I suggest you remove this to assist in removal of tranny. Its just has a couple of bolts into the crossmember. just take the weight off the rubber block with a trolly jack under the tranny.
On re-installation it get installed after the tranny is in place.
I also suggest you stick the gearshift into 1st gear to get the lever laying as flat as possible to clear the firewall tunnel upon removal and install.
Thanks Morris, appreciate the help
Happy New Year. Well, with the help of a couple of buddies we pulled the engine out in about 2 hours today (I had everything disconnected already) A bit tight getting over the radiator brace but we made it. Thanks again for all the help.
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FWIW, my xk120 supposedly takes 25 to 28 pints of oil (12.5 to 14 quarts, or 3.5 gallons). It IS a lot of oil.
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That’s what I have heard regarding the very early 120’s with the flat/straight sump LOTS of oil.