Now that my xj has restarted and the fuel pump temporary works , i can bring the car to my mech to fix all the remaining issues (and replace the fuel pump):
terrible clonk clonk sound on potholes from rear sospension.
Here i have replaced top bushings, and shock absorbers, but the situation get worse! (my Daimler is ex SLS).
replace the air conditioning compressor
try to repair the rear door lock. When i open the doors with the key the rear left door lock bounces up then goes down again… so the door remain locked, but if i manually raise the pin, when i close the central lock the pin goes down and remain closed.
Some suggestion to give to my poor mechanic? when he see my car , he is always very upset because for him is a real nighmare
The door lock problem is very common, it is almost always down to the adjustment of the operating linkage inside the door. When the lock solenoid operates, play or wear in the linkage prevents full travel throughout the mechanism so the micro switch is not properly activated to release the lock and it returns to the locked position. The good news is the fact it’s attempting to work indicating the solenoid is actually working fine.
Whenever I’ve had that problem with the locks ‘bouncing’ like that I’ve never had to touch the micro switches, they are sealed units with a small leaf type spring that operates against a tiny plunger. In my case it has always been down to simple adjustment of the rods. With the panel removed you can see the rods and linkage and the piece that can be adjusted. Only very small adjustments are necessary. Try adjusting it in one direction then test the action using the remote fob or door key, if the problem seems worse adjust it in the opposite direction, it’s a case of fine tuning it to a position where it both locks and unlocks without the bounce.
hello Casso. Is there a tutorial to remove the rear door panel? I don’t’ want to damage anything… now i brought the car to the mechanic to solve the rear suspension TLONKS, i hope he will manage… i have changed many of the rear sospension and shock absorber bushings and the shock absorbers too… but the TLONKS on every pothole are even worse than before.
I don’t know if there is a tutorial on here but it is not difficult.
Start by removing the small square blanking piece that is located inside the chrome inner door pull / handle. Remove the screw that is behind this blank and the chrome surround and plastic backing piece and rubber seal can be removed. Next carefully lift the veneer slightly at the door handle end and slide it to the right allowing it to be removed ( there are two ‘hook like’ clips fastened to the rear of the veneer that slide into brackets ) with the veneer removed you will see some screws holding the top half of the door panel, remove them and ease the top half upwards and over the locking button and take it off. Then remove the arm rest by removing the screws underneath it ( hidden under plastic covers ). The rest of the panel is held in place all around the perimeter by push in christmas tree type fasteners that just pull out. Use a flat plastic blade behind each one to avoid breaking them, but most likely one or two will either snap or break away from the door panel so it’s best if you have a couple of replacements in hand and some glue for when you are re-fitting it.
