Hi All
My goal today was to remove my track rod ends for replacement, after removing the track rods and getting them into the vice to remove the end joints, I manged to unscrew one end with lots of heat and lubrication, however the other end would not budge, I am thinking one end must be a LHT and the other a RHT and I have been turning the end the wrong way, can anybody confirm if this is correct? reading the manual it says to adjust the track just undo the clamping bolts and turn the rod, if this is so I am thinking one must be a RHT,
There no mention of threads in the manual, and if this is correct how do you tell which is which is RHT and LHT ?
I don’t want to keep applying pressure and heat until I confirm thread directions
Thanks
Mike
Yes, they have to be opposing threads otherwise the track cannot be increased or decreased when the rod is turned. Whichever thread you succeeded in turning, the other end is the opposite handed thread.
Thank you, It would be nice if you could tell by some markings, I will have another go tomorrow, however I may have screwed the thread up inside the tube by over tightening the LHT side !
you live and learn ! will it be the same for the steering drop link arm ?
Cheers
Mike
Yes, it’s the same for drag link and track rod. The track rod sets the relationship between left and right wheels for the correct toe-in. The drag link sets the relationship between the wheels in the straight ahead position and the centre of travel in the steering box.
You’ve definitely overrun the thread at that ball joint. Not good and there might be a bit of burring on some threads.
Just a hint - it doesn’t make any difference which sides the left and right threads are positioned, but it is normal practice to fit the left hand thread on the left side of the vehicle. It also makes it easy to remember if you need to come back to it after the memory has faded this detail away.
Thanks Peter
May have to get another track control tube one if possible
Mike
Managed to recover the track rod tube with the torque of two pipe wrenches and heat, now screws in and out so all is good, lot to learn on these cars but its enjoyable ( most of the time!)
hoping to have the car mobile in spring /summer subject to not encountering more set backs
Onwards and upwards
Mike
If your plans include replacing the ball joints, be advised that the conical angle of the ball joint male shaft and the female receiver in the wishbone should be checked for compatibility. Some replacement ball joints come with slightly different tapers (and diameters at a given point on the shaft) than originals so as to account for some possible wear. A mismatch on the fitment angles and diameters can lead to suspension troubles. It is not to say the replacement parts are incorrect, one must measure and decide solution appropriate to the car.
Thank you for the tip I will check them before installation, I am overhauling the steering and suspension but not the springs, however I am considering replacing the spring U bolts as a precautionary measure, does anybody know if these are hardened steel or will an off the shelf item be ok ?
Additionally there is some slight play in the King pins, ( swivel pin) on the steering anybody got a source of these and advice on replacing them ?
Cheers