Transmission's oil cooler return pipe - remake?

Dear All,

89’ XJS AJ6 (3.6) version.
Recently I’ve noticed two oil drips on the driveway, directly under front subframe / RH side. Done some hard tyre-kicking and returned - to find area below exhaust manifolds sprayed with oil.
First suspect - power steering pump and HP hoses - no source.
Second suspect - distributor, chain tensioner - no source.
Third suspect - head gasket / external leak - no source.
After underside inspection found this on transmission’s oil cooler return pipe:

This split looks like it was there for ages, probably - leak was caused by ageing hose section lowering its flexibility… This is the ZF 4HP22 transmission

My questions:
How difficult it is to remake these?
What is the actual working pressure of both oil cooler lines? I’m not suspecting it to be greater than raidiator’s pressure strength. Are hydraulic hoses really necessary?
Can these be remade with use of copper/nickel tube or flex hose can be used all the way? If so - would you be able to recommend easiest method, please? I know that Yankee part of publicity has more experience with autos - hence asking… ZF 4HP22 tranny will work within140-290psi range, I’m not expecting to have more than 60psi in cooler lines…
Couldn’t find any reference to Parker 7642 hose (hydraulic) visible on the photo - does anyone know why Jaguar used these in low pressure assembly? Was that purely due to potential pressure build-up during rreverse flow on lock-up?
Temporary fix with 3x EFI clamp over the split ferrule should reassure safe ride, however it’s just a half-measure…
As expected these lines are no longer available. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

What many do is remove the hose and take it to a forklift/industrial/farm equipment shop that does hydraulics repairs. They’ll remove the existing crimp collars and old hose and install new. Or just Google “Hydraulic repair in my area”.

If timing is on your side they’ll have it done in 15 minutes. Otherwise, next day at the latest.

Cheers
DD

Having to hoses remade as above at a hydraulic line shop is the most elegant way. You can DIY also as below.

Those lines are not under extreme pressure. You can use a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut the crimp on each side lengthwise, open it up like butterfly wings, and slice the old hose off. Rubber automatic transmission line specific hose can be found at auto parts stores. Use hose clamps to hold the new line on the end fittings.

I’ve had a hard time finding a shop that has BSPP fittings in my area. They will happily fix your tractor or injection molding machine hoses though!

Went with path Jai5678 suggests. There is plenty of stub once you’ve cut off the collar.

Take the hose off and to a local hydraulics shop, they’re proced reasonably and usually have the hardware and are quick. They also have the right hoses, ATF is not anything weird.

A good hose clamp works too, 150psi is really not that much.

Look at my steering hoses - the shop didn’t have good enough fittings in my case. Works. (It is just wire).

I cut the rubber hose about 6 inches from fitting when I had a stuck fitting. Once I got radiator out of car I got the fitting loose. Patched hose using a straight piece of correct inner diameter hose connector, with fuel injection hose clamps either side of the splice. As said, low pressure. Works fine

Shouldn’t be too difficult actually to just cut the crimped part and not hurt the hose (too much), then put an injection clamp on, done.

I gave my hoses to a hydraulic hose firm here in the UK called Pirtek, and they remade my hoses for 1/3 the price of new ones from Jaguar.

When I installed the LT! engine and 4l60E transmission, I needed to plub te trans cooler lines.

I recalled some of te technique that I ued when I added a supplental cooler to my 85 ford 150.

I shopped for and got the following:

1, Two female 90degree brass flare fittings.Female

  1. Two flare to barb fittings. Male. 3. Alength of rubber tubing for transmsiion coolers.

My Power package came wit metal tubes for supply and return. Much too long.

I cutoff the excess close to the coolant spigots on the radiator. Inserted the 90’s after flrig the pies. double flare for security. Inserted a flare to barb in each. These were left straight.

Double claomped in some rubber line. Now, the lines are vertill

I bent two male flare to barb at 90 degrees. Those connected the vertical power and return lies to the radiator tank.

Slick looking. Been there over 20 years. no issues.

CHJ .

Thanks Everyone,

From brief review of the above - there is no obvious reason why Jaguar used high pressure hose with steel lines on 4HP22 - especially with application of aluminium crimps (sounds a bit like typical Leyland recycling).

Half-measure applied over the genuine crimp:

These lines are hard to get… By any chance - does anyone seen unscrewed end bits going to radiator???

Maybe because it’s neater or simpler. My steering survives 80 bars of pressure, your little transmission hose will not be a problem at all.

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