**
Next test, Jean…
…you have spark at the coil center lead, right - 1/4", strong and blue? Now connect a spare spark plug (triple gapped) to any plug lead (ensure the plug body is grounded) and ‘crank’ - you should have spark, again strong and blue. Using the center lead bypasses the distributor - this test verifies that the rotor connects coil center lead to the plug wires. There is a spring loaded connection (usually carbon) between the lid’s center and the rotor - this may fail and there is no connection between coil and plugs. Or the rotor itself may have failed…
The main point is to have strong blue spark at the plug(s) - this verifies that your work inside the dist has not disturbed anything vital, and that the pick-up and amplifier work as they should. If the spark is weak; the air gap between the pick-up and timing rotor may be incorrect - it’s specified to 0.020 to 0.022".
If all checks out; the ignition works as it should, and I take the verification of the #1A being at firing stroke is double checked. In which case; the ign should not be the cause of the non-start…
For ‘fun’ you can back up tests with the usual EI static test; verify which plug lead the rotor is pointing to - and connect a spare spark plug to that lead. Loosen the dist and ‘wriggle’ the dist slightly back and forth (ign ‘on’) - this should trigger the ign amp to fire, and the plug should spark…
All this is about as much you can do to verify ignition…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)