V12 injection hoses too short?

Just trying to refit injector rail to 1990 vanden plas saloon, but the hoses I fitted, (supplied in the master injection kit 131) seem too short to be clamped into the ports
Anybody else had issues or am I doing something wrong?
Can someone tell me the length that the hoses should be please

If that is the regular H.E. fuel rail, the rear 10 fuel injector hoses should be 1.75" long. The front two are longer. None should be clamped.

1 7/8" for the short hose (ten count)
3 3/4" for the long hose (two count)
Been supplying that length for 16 years.
AND…OEM fitment is to use hose ferrules , not clamps.
SD Faircloth www.jaguarfuelinjectorservice.com

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Then you’ve been supplying the wrong length for 16 years. They need to be 1.75".

Seriously ??? How many sets of injectors have you taken off a fuel rail ? And how many have you measured ? I have done over 100 V12 fuel rail rebuilds. Measured them years ago. Multiple hoses from multiple V12 HE rails. And still occasionally remeasure the hose length from rails sent in for servicing. I’m not even sure if 1/8" makes a difference. But I actually have one coming in Thursday. You can drive over from Havana and we can measure them together. Won’t say anything more, or I might say something I might regret. SD

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Original short hose from HE rail:

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1-7/8" = 1.875" = 47.625mm

John’s measurement is 48mm

Looks like you’re making them 0.375mm (1/64") too short! :wink:

It’s clearly not particularly important.

I’m sure that my opinion is irrelevant but I cut mine at 2-1/8" and I use fuel injection hose clamps. I never want a fuel leak. At this length it’s easier to install and clearance not a problem.

It hasn’t occurred to you that your clamps might cause a fuel leak?

How? Fuel injection clamps are rounded on the sides unlike water hose clamps.

Gregma, one must calculate shrinkage over time. Sadly mother nature can be mean.

It’s not the clamps that are the problem, it’s the barbs. On a barb designed for clamps, there are ridges within the clamping area with rounded tops, designed to help ensure a seal. On a barb designed for use without clamps, there is a “fir tree” arrangement with very sharp ridges designed to grip the hose. Tighten a clamp down on those sharp ridges and you’re likely to cut up the inner lining of the hose.

It never ceases to amaze me that people think clamps would be an improvement. Compared to other hose connection schemes, clamps suck. Even the little spring rings that you squeeze the ends together to install are better, because they at least will maintain compression as the hose ages and shrinks. Bosch didn’t adopt the clampless push-on hose scheme to save money on clamps, they adopted it because the hose clamps were causing engine fires. The push-on connections are far more reliable than clamped connections – unless you put clamps on them, in which case their benefits are defeated.

Damn, I just tuned 70 couple days ago. This old dog is having a hard time learning all these new tricks!