There looks to be 22 oil pan bolts.
thanks, these help a lot. Based on your lower oil pan photo, I see 7 of the long bolts (00035) and thus 15 of the short bolts (00033).
I think (16) of each will be safe.
Hmmm, the place that sells the bolts for about $1 each wants $42 shipping for all 48 bolts?
And most other places charge $3/bolt.
Can I buy one of each, and then get Grade8 equivalents at the hardware store?
Motorcar LTD ? If that is not the vendor you are considering, you might look there. Show in stock at about 1.39
yep, they wanted $42 shipping. Maybe I need to call, maybe the website is assuming 48 items need a lot of postage?
What in the wide wide world of sports would lead you to conclude that the OEM bolts are the “right” ones? I did that job with the express intent of getting rid of the OEM bolts.
So far, this car has not caused me any grief like that. IMO previous owners kept it garaged enough, no salt on the roads here, and only 50,000 miles. Every original hose I’ve removed has been decent, every bolt I’ve turned comes out. At least those broken bolts would be easy to get out at their location.
Kirby, I thought the new OEM bolts I was getting were an improvement Ford made in the early 90s through that TSB? So I AM getting rid of the original OEM bolts.
And we’re just holding on an oil pan. No need for an amazing grade8 bolt here.
I’m fine getting some grade 5 alloy bolts, im just afraid of getting wrong ones and stripping block. I can’t find any post that says exactly what is needed. At least oem will be correct.
He’s talking about the good, upgraded bolts, not the originals. The upgraded bolts are great.
Grade 5 is same as originals. Just order them in bulk from McMaster Carr. Much cheaper, and you’ll have them in a couple of days. They are flanged bolts with locking serrations. I got a couple from Jaguar, and the ones from McMaster are exactly the same
I have no idea what to order from McMaster Carr. I guess I could order one each of new OEM replacement bolts as I mentioned, and then determine from that what I need?
These. You might need 3/4" long also for other locations. Can’t remember. You can look them up on McMasters website with the part number.
92323A537 Grade 5 Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screw, Medium-Strength, Zinc-Plated, 5/16"-18
Thread Size, 1" Long, Packs of 25
92323A542 Grade 5 Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screw, Medium-Strength, Zinc-Plated, 5/16"-18
Thread Size, 1-3/4" Long, Packs of 25
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Wow, thanks so much for this info! Greatly appreciated.
And the 3/4" versions of the above are -
92323A535 Grade 5 Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screw
Medium-Strength, Zinc-Plated, 5/16"-18 Thread Size, 3/4" Long, Pack of 50
All of the above $28 plus shipping. Nice!
Question about the TSB and oil pan gaskets.
For lower gasket, it says “ebc 9623 should be fitted without RTV sealant…”.
OK.
But for upper gasket, it says “ebc 9637 should be fitted without RTV sealant on split lines between the cylinder block and the timing cover…”
What does this mean? Is RTV sealant still needed, and where?
It’ll be pretty obvious once the sandwich plate is off, but you don’t need any RTV on either gasket.
I’ve putt a small amount of Permatex Blue in the lower gasket.
My thought was that I had nothing to loose and didn’t want to have unpleasant surprises, I don’t trust the 35 years old stamped metal sump to be perfect.
Important details from the Book:
Bu sure you deform the holes of the pan so there is a slight bulge towards the outside, so when you tighten things up the screws will push them flat against the sandwich plate.
Also be sure that you put sealant at the long screws as the holes are see-trough into the engine oil and you will always have some seepage trough the threads.
I wonder if elongated washers could be used on those bolts holding the pan…similar to the ones holding the cover over the atmospheric tank access in the left wheel well? That would spread the pressure onto the gasket on each side of the bolt.
Yep, several people have mentioned to do that to the pans in the archives, so I will remember.
And I have the TSB with a drawing of the (9) bolts on the upper pan that need sealant. Even got the special Loctite 542 it recommends. It also says to totally clean the threads, apply to inner threads and wait to dry, and finally apply to bolt threads (without drying) and tighten.
Yes. And could be ground narrower a little bit if needed.
Probably still should do Kirby’s Hammer correction a little bit also