I’m looking for upper and lower Oil Sump gaskets for my 1988 XJS.
EBC9623 - lower, EBC9637 - upper
But all I can find are the paper type. Are there better material gaskets out there?
Thanks
The improved gasket numbers are in the Book. EDIT: Sorry, those are the new numbers. Be sure to get genuine Jaguar gaskets, others use the number but are the wrong material. Also, follow the directions to seal the threads that are hidden by the lower pan as outlined in the Book. Oil seeps thru the threads on the fasteners that don’t thread into blind ended holes.
You are also supposed to change the fasteners along with the gaskets to a flanged head type with serrations on the flange to lock them into place. You discard the existing bolts and washers. I ordered them from McMaster Carr at huge savings over Jaguar prices. Just measure the lengths of the existing bolts and order the appropriate sizes and quantity.
Edit: this is the type of bolt you want:
McMaster-Carr Page:
https://www.mcmaster.com/Screws/medium-strength-grade-5-steel-serrated-flange-hex-head-screws
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OK, so aftermarket gaskets of the same number are paper, but Jaguar OEM gaskets are not?
Would I still use RTV gasket material on the lower and upper gasket with the Jaguar gaskets?
So ditch the original bolts/washers and use flanged head bolts w/o washers? For both lower and upper?
I’ll re-read the book, but thought it may be outdated.
OE Jag gaskets are black, stiff, thin, and multi layer, with a gasket-metal- gasket sandwich.
Yes on the bolts, replace all outer bolts with ones with serrated flanges. There are several different lengths. The interior bolts in the engine sump don’t need to be changed, but they need the sealant on the ones that don’t have hole bottoms.
I’ll post the actual service bulletins if I can find them. Jaguar says do NOT use sealant on the gaskets.
One other thing, the sheet metal oil pan may be distorted around the bolt holes. I spent a fair amount of time flattening them, and running a flat file over them until the mating surfaces were flat and true.
Thanks! I’m trying to gather all the confusing details now, as I’ll have subframe off in December, and I want to get this job done right the first time. Although I ‘guess’ I could run engine with subframe off to check my work for leaks, correct?
Here are the portions of the two service bulletins.
You can run the engine without the subframes as long as the engine is well supported by a good crossbar.
Bolt sealant.pdf (2.3 MB) Gaskets.pdf (2.0 MB)
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Got mine from SNG Barratt ans IIRC they were not paper but a thick black stuff.
Yes, moi importante.
My 86 had the flanged type from the factory, don’t think they were serrated though.
What I did was to distort them the other way around with a small ball hammer, so when the screws are tightened they would push them back flat.
I used Permatex blue on the lower pan (did not do the sandwich plate).
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Ford updated the gaskets to a better material, Kirby pointed that out in the book.
Kirbert’s book is the update, “The bible” if you will. It cannot be outdated
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Thanks for all the info, very valuable!
Another related question, as I’ll have both oil pans off the engine, should I be looking for anything? I’ll of course give the pans a good clean, but will any traces of anything but oil be bad?
And what about the crankshaft…anything to look at or do to it while it’s visible?
Thanks,
I haven’t looked at my V12 in ages, but off the top of my head nothing really comes to mind. Others may chime in with more suggestions, though.
The gaskets, the straightening of the oil pan holes, and the screws are biggies, though. I’d skim through the book to see if there is anything else in there, but I just don’t think there’s a whole lot more to look at, engine wise while under there
The book mentions replacing all o-rings with Viton o-rings. Not much else.
On the left side of the engine, the oil bypass housing will be easy to get to. Replace the o rings, and the shirt lengths of oil hose on the small S pipe. I’d also replace the oil filter mount to block gasket. There’s an update gasket for it. Also, the oil line block at the front right corner of the pan has several o-rings and a gasket on the upper portion that should be changed, including one for the oil pickup.
Other than the bolts that need to have their threads sealed, there not much of interest inside the pan, except for the oil pickup noted above.
While you have the front crossmember out, I’d change the front crankshaft seal. It’s much easier with all the stuff out of the way.
My car only has 50k miles, and all of the o-rings and seals were hard.
I spent a lot of time with a spray bottle (several; I buy it in 5 gallon containers) of Purple Power, scrub brushes, and a pump water sprayer cleaning off the bottom of the engine. Much nicer to work on, and easy to check for leaks once work is completed. A large shallow plastic catch tray catches all the gunk.
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Greg
It appears that your impending projects mirror what I did about 10 or 15 years ago.
As I examine my website for issues (due to a change of server) I have tried to prioritize the links that might help you. (Why not I have to go through all of them anyway)
As you gather parts etc. for your project, the links below might be of some help to you.
Replacing front suspension mounts and bushings
Consider adding the following to your list once the engine cradle is down.
Replace steering rack high and low pressure hoses
Good luck
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Indeed, eliminating the possibility of future leaks.
I would also look at the two big screw caps at the filter head assembly, mine developed a big leak all of a sudden.
They are sealed with some sort of locktite type substance and they need heat to break them loose.
Yes again, and a Viton seal would be a good choice.
This is the thread I made when I did this eight years ago, and I just added some photos.
@gregma, the only place that had them would only sell a set of five, so if you are interested I still have some spares.
The guys with XK engines generally upgrade their front seals with Teflon seals. Is that an option for the V12?
Thanks Bernard! I really appreciate this! Sounds like I know what I’M doing Winter Vacation! 
I’ve got most of the parts ready, I’m now trying to locate the new bolts for upper and lower sump pans.
To make sure I have the right ones, I’m OK with ordering actual Jag oem bolts instead of trying to source my own. I found a supplier that sells them at a fair price (around $1 each)
Looking through archives, I can’t seem to determine the actual number I’ll need. I don’t want to wait until I undo the old bolts, as I may not get the new ones delivered in time.
So far all I have is this. Is this accurate? I’d hate to be one bolt short, or waste my money on a half dozen too many.
JZS100033 (14) - Lower Pan, short bolts
JZS100034 (11) - Upper Pan, medium/short bolts
JZS100035 (15) - Lower/Upper Pans, long bolts
Thanks!
At about a dollar each i would be inclined to order extra of each one. 18 instead of 14, 14 instead of 11, 20 instead of 15.
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Thanks, the internal bolts can be reused, so its hard to know which holes to count… I may just do what Jim says and order a few extra.