Message No.1
The visor on the driver's side doesn't have a mirror. Can thevisor be replaced?
Message No.2
I don’t see why you shouldn’t be able to get hold of a visor for the drivers
side too. The car is being produced both as left and right hand drive.
Message No.3
I suspect the Jaguar engineers didn’t think it was a good idea to be looking
at a vanity mirror when you’re supposed to be driving!To expound on the question, though. My '83 XJ-S doesn’t have a mirror in
the visor on EITHER side. They musta thought the mirror in the glovebox
door would serve – which it does not. Are there visors available to fit
this car that have mirrors? And does anyone know where I can get one? (or
perhaps a pair, the two visors should match, even if only one has the mirror)
Now, could someone tell me, what the visor is?
Its somehow a new term for me. 
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{@Nikolai_Chitaev}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA------------------------------
From: “Alan Johnston” alan_johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov
Date: 8 Nov 1995 16:38:44 -0600
Subject: FWD>FW- Transmission replac
Mail*Link� SMTP FWD>FW: Transmission replacement in England
Tom and Tony wrote,
or finally replace it with a
manual box?
This was a European option and can be done easily. up to the owner as
to how he likes to drive the car… 4speed O/D
hope this helps…
kind regards
tony
My question Tony,
You stated that the 4spd was a european option and would be easy to fit into an
XJ6. Is this something you could easily do in the states, or is it still a
predominantly european option? If I do purchase a late S111 XJ6, you can bet I’d
want to convert it to manual. Are the Jaguar manual trannys easy to come by (or
at least easy for you to come by)? How much would a good rebuild or a new one
cost? How much would you charge for the retro-fit? You get the idea 
Thanks for your time.
Alan_Johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov
From: “Graham, Tom D.” UCISTDG@cis.unocal.com
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 95 13:46:00 PST
Subject: FW: Copy of: XJ battery
How long should a battery last? 2 years? No! When I had an XJC 5.3
(1975), I
had the original type Lucas battery last for 6 years. It was bloody
expensive
Listen, take my advice on this, you’ll thank me forever :-). It is, buy any
type of battery that works OK for that car -THEN- REPLACE IT EVERY THREE (3)
YEARS whether it needs it or not!!!
Cherio - Tom
From: LEWIS@RIKER1.dnet.teradyne.com
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 17:14:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V1 #255
While were on the subject of paint…
What paint should be used on the light gray part of my 1983 XJ-S rims? How
should they be prepared?, And why doesn’t the dark grey center peel and
flake?
Thanks to the fellow netters who encouraged me to flush my heater matrix,
I now have heat for the first time! Does anyone else think the factory
repair manual recommendation of “2X 134ml of stop leak” is maybe not
such a good idea?
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 17:17:09 -0500
Subject: rust & driveshafts
To Tom Graham (The Bodywork Man):
I have the early beginnings of rust on my car. It’s the scary kind where it
starts from the inside out. Right now al I can see is a spot the size of a
dime that looks like the paint is bubbling up. Any advice ???
Thanks much in advance.
Also, to the XJS owners: My XJS has a one piece drive shaft and I suspect it
may be out of balance. Anyone have this happen before??
Do all the XJSs have a one piece shaft, or do the later models have a two
piece??
Regards to all,
JulianMullaney
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 15:16:22 -0800
Subject: Re: FWD>FW- Transmission replac
You wrote:
My question Tony,
You stated that the 4spd was a european option and would be easy to
fit into an>XJ6. Is this something you could easily do in the states,
Yes, it would just involve some interior trim changes… as the
mechanicas are straight forward.
If I do purchase a late S111 XJ6, you can bet I’d want to convert it
to manual. Are the Jaguar manual trannys easy to come by
Yes… usually available to us nearby in Wolverhampton
How much would a good rebuild or a new one cost?
Let me have some time to research this… my guess would be around
$1,000 including transport to the US. But let me get back to you on
this…
How much would you charge for the retro-fit? You get the idea
perhaps $800, ( just a reasonable guess) plus the interior change and
prop rebalance if necessary…
Another NASA guy !! what’s with you fellows ( Ryan/Merritt)!!??
kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 95 18:47:49 EST
Subject: Buying a 420G at last (I hope)
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FC42
*** INTERNET ADDRESS - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *****************
Subject: Buying a 420G at last (I hope)
OK guys’n’gals,
I’m at the decision making stage for the 420G that I have found. Hope
you can help me with a few of the questions below :-
It has the 4.2 triple SU engine. This has been fully rebuilt less
than 1000 klm’s ago. I had a long talk with the mechanic, and he said
that the piston chambers were so straight and clean that he only
had to give them a hone. Also, the inlet valves were ok, and so only
the exhaust valves were replaced, along with one valve seat which was
cracked, and all new valve guides were put in.
The starter motor was re-built, new radiator and water pump’s were
put in, along with new timing chain gear, oil pump, and all SU’s were
completely overhauled.
Basically, the engine looks and sounds fantastic. However, since I
don’t know alot about JAG heads/Blocks, I’d like someone out there to
give me a vote of confidence/‘warm fuzzy feeling’, as I’m worried that
the lack of machining on the head/block, and the keeping of the old
inlet valves, might have been a short cut that may come back to bite me.
Also, is this 4.2 triple SU setup a rare/valuable asset in this car ?
or did the 1970 model 420G have this as standard ?
I also intend to convert the gearbox set-up to a manual
overdrive. Can anyone reccommend the gearbox that I should use ( in order
to keep this car as genuine jag as possible.) I know alot of people
do this conversion on Mark 2’s and actually increase the value of the
car, even though it is no longer original. I hear about the Moss and
Getrag gearboxes. Anyone in Australia know how much a reco’d box would
cost, and what a reputable jag shop would charge to put it in ? How
much does this conversion cost in England/U.S. ?
The trim is crap, and I will be re-painting it old english white, so
there is alot of fun restoring to do. At least the engine and whole
front end have been fully re-built, which is a great head start. It
also has air conditioning which was fitted in the factory (but looking
at the leaflet that came with the car, it is not actually made by
Jaguar. It looks like an aftermarket set-up that was offerred out of the
factory. Anyone able to confirm that this happened back then ? Or is
he spinning me a line about the A/C being factory ?)
Hope I get some responses tonight, as I need to make my decision
tomorrow…The car should be mine for $5.5k, unless I get cold feet
from all you friends at Jag lovers…cheers.
REGARDS…Shane
SYDVM1(SHANEM) SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM
From: Larry096@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 18:50:49 -0500
Subject: SIII Tires
Thanks to all that respoded. I found the D65 (Dunlop)215/65 SR15’s for $72.
I’m planning on them unless someone from the list stops me.
Larry Karpman
Bedford, TX
From: @Nikolai_Chitaev (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 17:58:07 -0500
Subject: Re: New Old Cars
The Jag-Lover and engineer in me would love to see “new” old Jags coming
down the line with walnut dining room tables for dashboards!!
<>
Don’t get me wrong, I would love to see this happen. If someone can come up
with a viable economic proposal for it, sign me up to be the Chief Engineer!
I think that the new “old” car is better than the new “new” car.
The body of XJ6 series III is the best (as I see it) among others full size
sedans Jaguar ever build. Its more aesthetic than all XJR, XJ40, and new
95XJ6 taken together. The "classic look" doesnt means OLD, rather it does means forever. At
least, I deeply regret that Jaguar has stop production of series III.
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{@Nikolai_Chitaev}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 08 Nov 95 18:56:54 EST
Subject: Theyyyyrrrre Off!!! (MK II X/C Trip update)
Hi all!
Just a quick note with news that crack meteorologist Lawrence Buja and noted
timekeeper Scott Paisley (NIST) left Denver this (Wed) afternoon at around 3
o’clock–on route to Michigan
in a (my) 1960 MK II… ETA Friday afternoon, pending no visits from Lucas, Pr.
'o Darkness.
The trip according to Rand McNally Tripmaker is 1193 miles.
They’re carrying a laptop and will try togo on line on occassion, if time
allows.
Good luck guys!!
Updates to follow…
Best regards to all,
Jim Beckmeyer
Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II <— This is the car!!
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 11:06:41 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Manual conversions
Alan Johnston asks,
My question Tony,
You stated that the 4spd was a european option and would be easy to fit into an
XJ6. Is this something you could easily do in the states, or is it still a
predominantly european option? If I do purchase a late S111 XJ6, you can bet I’d
want to convert it to manual. Are the Jaguar manual trannys easy to come by (or
at least easy for you to come by)? How much would a good rebuild or a new one
cost? How much would you charge for the retro-fit? You get the idea
Thanks for your time.
Alan, have you considered using a non Jaguar gearbox? The Jaguar manual O/D
as used in the XJ SI here in Australia (dating back to the introduction of
the 4.2 XK) is an extremely heavy, expensive (at least locally) and fragile
(in the overdrive). There are many modern 5 speeds that could be fitted
with just as much work for less money and better performance. The carbon
thrust bearing that Jaguar used instead of a roller thrust bearing constantly
amazes me.
I have personally opted to use a Toyota Supra 5 speed which is commonly
available here secondhand from Japan. They are considered an excellent
gearbox and are commonly fitted behind high performance engines including
Holden, Chev and Ford V8s. Apart from a slight lay shaft bearing noise
since I bought the box secondhand, it has performed flawlessly. A rebuild
kit shouldn’t cost me more than about AUD$200 (USD$150) or alternatively,
a replacement would cost under $400 (USD$300).
If you (or anyone else) is interested, I will dig up further details.
For the record, I originally bought a secondhand Jaguar man O/D which
is still sitting on my factory floor (next to the BW65). The price
which I was quoted to check/rebuild the Jaguar box before installation
was greater than all the parts required to install the Toyota including
the gearbox. The Jaguar box originally cost $1600 (USD$1200).
Robert Dingli
'74 Daimler Sov 4.2
'76 Toyota Celica 3SG both with the same gearbox
For Sale : Jaguar 4 speed Manual O/D from a 2.8 XJ SI including brand
new Borg and Beck clutch and various other bits required to convert
an XJ to a manual.
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering Mechanical Engineering
(+613) 9344 7966 (+613) 9344 6728
University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
From: spe00@eng.amdahl.com (Silas Elash)
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 16:22:55 PST
Subject: Re: Buying a 420G at last (I hope)
Shane wrote,
It also has air conditioning which was fitted in the factory (but looking
at the leaflet that came with the car, it is not actually made by
Jaguar. It looks like an aftermarket set-up that was offerred out of the
factory. Anyone able to confirm that this happened back then ? Or is
he spinning me a line about the A/C being factory ?)
I don’t know about such late model cars, but as far as the MK2s
are concerned, I have been told by different sources that
air conditioning was done as a factory authorized aftermarket option.
This lends some breadth to the term “factory installed.” My MK2
had it at one time and it was removed by a PO. I hope that the air
conditioning in the car you are contemplating works well - I would be
curious to hear.
Silas
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 11:20:29 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: SIII Tires
Thanks to all that respoded. I found the D65 (Dunlop)215/65 SR15’s for $72.
I’m planning on them unless someone from the list stops me.Larry Karpman
Bedford, TX
Larry stop. Your car originally came out with V rated tyres for a reason.
S rated tyres are rated to a much lower speed, are weaker, won’t grip
as well and won’t last as long.
Furthermore, your car may not be legal with tyres of lower rating than
the original (as is the case in Australia) and it may void your insurance.
I’m suprised that you can get a 65 series S rated tyre at all.
Robert Dingli
'74 Daimler
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering Mechanical Engineering
(+613) 9344 7966 (+613) 9344 6728
University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
From: shanem@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 95 19:30:28 EST
Subject: Re: Buying a 420G at last (I hope)
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 11/09/95 11:25
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FC42
*** INTERNET ADDRESS - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *****************
Subject: Re: Buying a 420G at last (I hope)
Hope I get some responses tonight, as I need to make my decision
tomorrow…The car should be mine for $5.5k, unless I get cold feet
from all you friends at Jag lovers…cheers.
Shane, the car sounds great. $5.5K would barely buy you a complete
4.2 rebuild. Trust me, I’ve spent much more than that on my '74 engine.
I think the triple SU’s are standard. As for a gearbox, refer to my
previous post on manual conversions.
Robert
Robert, thanks for the advice. With regards to your note on the Supra
5 speed conversion, is there any kind of adapter plate or something to
enable the housing to bolt up to the jag block ? How did you bolt yours
together ?
From: “Richard Moore” RICHARD@ee.uts.edu.au
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 11:58:28 +1000
Subject: 5 speed conversion
Hi all
Has anyone out there ever used a Dellows bell housing
to connect a Toyota gearbox to a six cylinder XJ Jag motor.
I 'm at loss to know what flywheel and starter it was made for.
I remember reading on the net that someone in Australia
has done it but I I dont have his address.
Richard
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 20:07:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Flywheel and automatics, ONE LAST TIME
bore. Think of the torque converter as two halves, with the rear half being
driven via the flexplate by way of the crankshaft, and the front half of the
torque
converter being driven by the fluid coupling inside of the torque converter.
It’s kind of counter intuitive. Anyway, the front half of the converter (the
one
driven by the fluid coupling) has a proboscis on it (the pilot nose) which
seats itself in the crank pilot bore.This makes absolutely no sense to me. First off, if the “pilot nose” were
indeed attached to the driven portion of the torque convertor, a bearing
WOULD be necessary, as it doesn’t always turn at the same rate as the
crankshaft. In my experience, the portion of the torque convertor that
bolts to the flex plate is one solid piece; the driven portion is entirely
contained inside, no protruding parts to require sealing.-- Kirbert
It does make sense, if you look at it in the right terms. What you are calling
the torque convertor housing as a single piece is (for the XJS-400) 10 pieces
welded together. This is only what you can see; doesn’t include any of the
internals. The main housing (back half), the front cover, the six mounting
pads (bolt lugs), the hub (rear center; pump drive etc.), and the pilot nose.
The fluid is stirred by the main housing (the rear half), which gets it’s drive
via the front cover and mounting pads. the fluid then drives the internal
parts, what BJ was calling the front half. these internal parts are still
under the front cover, which is (still welded solid to the main housing.
While you may, at this point, argue semantics, there is historical reasoning
behind the names. In the early days, the main housing and front cover were
not welded together. They were bolted.
When a torque convertor is rebuilt, the company will cut the cover off of
the convertor, clean and refurbish the internals, weld on a new hub, replace
the pilot nose and/or mounting pads as required, then weld the front cover
back on.
Now, to hopefully put this to rest once and for all. I had some spare time
today, so I grabbed a dial caliper and a flashlight, and went way out back
to the dead engine storage shed. I found five V-12s and four 400’s. I picked
the most accessable ones to measure; A HE V-12 (about 85), and the one Jag
400 that still had the torque convertor.
The pilot hole in the back of the HE crankshaft is a stepped design. The outer
part has a diameter of 1.682", and a depth of .50". This part of the crank
is also the piloting boss for the flex plate, such that the hole starts
slighty behind the mounting plane of the plate. I did not carry equipment
to accurately measure this, but lets call it a relative depth of -.1 to +.4,
as seen from the back. I also could not measure the second part of the
pilot hole. It appeared to be in the 3/4 to 7/8" range, and about an inch
deep.
The pilot nose on the Jag (six bolt) THM400 torque convertor is also 1.682"
in diameter. It protrudes beyond the mounting pads (flex plate plane)
approximately .180". Therefore the interference of the pilot to back of crank
is approx .180 - -(.1), or about 1/4". The diameters are the same. I would
call that a locating pilot.
I did not have a BW Model 12 handy to measure. Looking at the pictures,
it would seem that the pilot on that convertor is the correct diameter
and of sufficient length to engage the second (smaller) part of the pilot
hole in the crankshaft. If not, the rear hole could easily be bushed to
accept the pilot nose. It would make sense, since Jaguar put both 400’s and
M12’s behind the V-12.
I also assume that this second part is where Kirby installed the pilot
bushing for his T5 conversion.
+----+
| |
|----|
|----| /
| | \
,-' '-------------/
'-----, \
'------, /
Pilot hole | \
,------" /
,-----' \
'-, /
| ,-------------\
| | /
|----| \
|----|
| |
+----+
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #256
From: owner-jag-lovers-digest
To: jag-lovers-digest
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V1 #257
Reply-To: jag-lovers
Errors-To: owner-jag-lovers-digest
Precedence: bulk
jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 9 November 1995 Volume 01 : Number 257
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 17:33:01 PST
Subject: re: XJ battery
When I had an XJC 5.3 (1975), I
had the original type Lucas battery last for 6 years. It was bloody
expensive
You don’t need to use the original Lucas battery for that car. On XJ12’s
you can use the Mega Torque 1000 available at every Kragan’s Auto Supply.
It’s an excellent battery for that car.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 17:36:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Manual conversions (E-Type??)
At 11:06 AM 11/9/95, robert dingli wrote:
I have personally opted to use a Toyota Supra 5 speed which is commonly
available here secondhand from Japan. They are considered an excellent
gearbox and are commonly fitted behind high performance engines including
Has anyone done this on an E-Type?
A perennial question for E-Type owners, especially in the USA is why can’t
we have overdrive. US specification cars come with a 3.54 rear axle ratio
which, while giving wonderful 0-60 mph times, gives high rpms at highway
cruising speeds. I have toyed with the idea of getting a differential with
European 3.01 ratio (from memory) but that would take away some of the
glorious acceleration. Since overdrive wont fit in an E-Type an ideal
compromise solution (but non-purist) would be a 5 speed box.
I know that I need to do a clutch overhaul in the not too far distant
future (clutch only takes up at the end of the travel) so its tempting to
consider playing around with a relatively inexpensive gearbox to see if it
fits, while I have it out.
I know that Robert has been tempted to buy an E-Type, so I think he should
definitely start thinking about the practicality of this conversion now
Maybe even before he dreams of doing an EFI conversion to his triple SU
carb E-Type
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 17:53:38 PST
Subject: re: New Old Cars
I think that the new “old” car is better than the new “new” car.
The body of XJ6 series III is the best (as I see it) among others full size
sedans Jaguar ever build. Its more aesthetic than all XJR, XJ40, and new
95 XJ6 taken together.
Even as a XJ40 owner, I totally agree with you. Sometimes I wonder why
a car manufacturerer would throw away a perfectly good design and start
from scratch.
As good as the current XJ6 looks, it’s still not as good as the series III.
What they should’ve done was to update everthing to current XJ40 spec, but
keep the body shell and parts of the interior layout intact. What
I like about the XJ40 is that it’s reliable, and drives like a '90’s car.
What I miss the most are the curved bonnet when looking out the windshield,
and the individual round gauges on the dash.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Larry096@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 21:10:54 -0500
Subject: Re: SIII Tires
I mistated the rating. They are “T” rated, which, in the end, may not make a
difference.
I appreciate your input, but refuse to put Perellis back on. What would you
recommend?
Best
Larry
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 13:44:50 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: 5 speed conversion
Richard asked,
Has anyone out there ever used a Dellows bell housingto connect a Toyota gearbox to a six cylinder XJ Jag motor.
I 'm at loss to know what flywheel and starter it was made for.
I remember reading on the net that someone in Australia
has done it but I I dont have his address.Richard
This is the part I used for my conversion. They also make a bell
housing to mate the V12 to the same gearbox. I found them very
helpful and able to supply many of the parts which would normally
be a pain to find - for example, the speedo cable, clutch slave push
rod, mounts and clutch bits.
It uses the standard Jaguar flywheel, starter motor and hydraulics.
The pressure plate is a Ford Falcon part and the friction plate is
a standard Toyota part - both cheaper to replace than the Jaguar
equivalents.
I’ll dig up my original conversion report from many months ago and repost
shortly.
Robert Dingli
'74 Daimler
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering Mechanical Engineering
(+613) 9344 7966 (+613) 9344 6728
University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
From: John McDonagh MCDONAGJ@tui.lincoln.ac.nz
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 1995 16:00:50 +1300
Subject: Re: 5 speed conversion
I did not use a Dellow bellhousing, I modified a Jag one, but the
principle is the same I believe, in that you use the Jag flywheel,
starter and clutch pressure plate, with the clutch driven plate to
match the spline on the gearbox. I used a 10 inch Daihatsu truck
clutch, but the Dellow conversion uses a 9.5 inch Falcoln clutch
plate I believe.
John McDonagh
Lincoln University
Christchurch
New Zealand
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 14:14:28 +1100 (EST)
Subject: 5 speed conversion details - repost
Hi everyone,
the following is a repost of a repost. It details the parts and work
required to install a Toyota Supra 5 speed into an XJ.
My apologies to anyone who has read this before.
I originally bought a Jag manual overdrive from my local Jag wrecker
for the price (cheap for here anyway) of $1600 (AUS$1 = US$0.74 or so).
This included everything required from flywheel to tailshaft. I even
managed to get a brand new Borg and Beck pressure plate and friction
plate. The kit came with XJ SI clutch and brake pedals and thus I had
to machine the SII pedal box to take the extra pedal.
At this point I found out that the gearbox, which was from a SI 2.8,
had different springs in the overdrive unit and would require a rebuild
to handle the torque of a standard 4.2, let alone mine. The quoted
price for rebuilding the overdrive alone was $300. I then decided to
get the whole gearbox checked and rebuilt professionally. The price
then rose to $600 - $1000 depending on condition. The conversion wasn’t
looking like being as financially simple as originally thought.
After talking to my mechanic, he recommended that I shouldn’t
bother with the Jag box and go for a Getrag instead. I explained that
I couldn’t afford the Getrag when he suggested using a Toyota 5 speed.
This sparked a flame of hope in my mind as I have had some experience
using the Supra box.
The “Supra” box is the name given to any Toyota 5 speed made after about
1978 with an aluminium housing. Basically the same gearbox (the same
internals at least) is used on Toyota 4 and 6 cylinder cars and trucks,
petrol and deisel, turbo and non-turbo. They are very easy to get here
in Australia as they are imported second hand from Japan by many suppliers.
The prices range from $350 - $500 depending on the source. There are
three different first gear ratios available and two overdrive ratios.
Otherwise the internals are identical from what I’ve heard. Externally,
in the traditional floor shift format, there are at least three gear stick
positions, with the most forward shift being optimal for use in original
Jag XJ floor hole situations. Unfortunately, this gearstick forward box
is the hardest to get and the most wanted as it also optimally fits into
Holden conversions. An older Toyota gearbox known as a “Steel case”
Celica box is very similar. It has a cast iron case but while being
of exactly the same design internally, has smaller gears and bearings, and
from what I’m told is not as strong. It’s possible to get an alloy case
Supra box with a cast iron central bearing mount section. Some claim that
this is stronger than the normal alloy version.
A Sydney based company, Dellow automotive, have a big reputation for
Supra gearbox conversion kits for most commonly available engines here
in Australia. They make bell housing to mate the alloy Supra box and the
steel case box to the XK block and the V12. They make bell housings for
other large engines such as Ford, Holden (GM) and Chev engines.
The conversion is designed to use a Ford Falcon pressure plate (the Jag
unit being to big with the carbon thrust thingy mounted on the diaphragm)
and a friction plate to suit the Supra spline. The Jag slave cylinder is
used and a Dellow release bearing housing and fork completes the clutch
system. The rear engine mount is of my own improvisation using a Toyota
gear box flexible mount and the Jag manual carrier (the bit that bolts
to the floor). The tailshaft will be a single piece custom built unit
mating the Supra yoke to the Jag rear flange.
The rear mount is simple case of cutting and welding a plate
that bolts onto the original Jag fixed mount and the Toyota flexible mount.
I wasn’t able to utilise the Jag spring/damper system in the space
available. The Supra gearstick had to be modified to come through in the
original position. Rather than bother with modifications to the gearbox
casing, I simply cut the gearstick below console level and welded in a
horizontal section to move it an inch forward.
The following is a list of bits and approximate prices required for an
XJ auto to Supra 5 speed conversion. (AUD$1 = approx USD$0.74)
-
- pedal box, (req for SII auto to manual conversion)
manual gearstick console,
master and slave cylinders (+ any new lines or cylinder reconditioning),
flywheel (potentially with different starter motor) ,
manual gearbox rear mount (auto unit potentially usable)
- Jaguar parts - ~$200 - $400
- pedal box, (req for SII auto to manual conversion)
-
- bell housing and spigot bush (uses Jaguar slave cylinder)
- Dellow - $350
- bell housing and spigot bush (uses Jaguar slave cylinder)
-
- thrust fork and bearing assembly (may be able to adapt Toyota bits)
- Dellow - $100
- thrust fork and bearing assembly (may be able to adapt Toyota bits)
-
- speedo cable
- Dellow - $55
- speedo cable
-
- tailshaft (custom made single piece 3" diameter)
- $180
- tailshaft (custom made single piece 3" diameter)
-
- pressure plate and friction plate
- Ford/Toyota aftermarket supplier - $200
- pressure plate and friction plate
-
- Supra gearbox (with gearstick in forward position - adaptor available)
- Toyota importer - ~$350 - $500
- Supra gearbox (with gearstick in forward position - adaptor available)
The standard Dellow kit is designed to use a 9.5 inch Ford Falcon pressure
plate which bolts straight into the original holes of later Jaguar diaphragm
clutch mounts. I elected to use a 10" Ford unit which required new holes
to be drilled into the flywheel. After sorting out problems with the master
and slave cylinders, the pedal feel is relatively heavy (compared to my 4 cyl
cars with 8 inch clutches) but quite manageable. I’ve never driven a manual
Jaguar before but I guess that the pedal effort would be similar to a
diaphragm style clucth and much lighter than a spring and lever Jaguar clutch.
One great benefit is that future clutch changes are much, much
cheaper and if the worst happens and the tranny starts to wear, a $350
replacement will hurt much less than a >$600 rebuild or >$1500 replacement.
The Supra box is much stronger, lighter and more easily available.
In design it’s similar to a BW T5 having six main bearings but I haven’t
compared their internals side by side. Eventhough the T5 is commonly
used on locally produced Fords and Holdens, it is nowhere near as cheap
as imported Toyota units.
Robert Dingli
'74 Daimler
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering Mechanical Engineering
(+613) 9344 7966 (+613) 9344 6728
University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1993 19:32:26 -0800
Subject: XJ40 Dump Module
After a bit of research I’ve found the info on the alternator dump
module. The early XJ40s used a module that allowed the alternator to start
charging at 950 RPM and higher. This was used on the '88 up to VIN 547921.
From 547922 the module was modified to allow the alternator to begin
charging at 750 RPM, which is a realistic idle speed. This information only
applies to the 90 Amp alternator used on the 88 and 89 XJ40s. The part
number for the updated dump module is DBC 4267. Just for a bit of added
info, the alternator was changed to 115 Amps on the '90 cars at VIN 594576.
The part number for the 115 Amp dump module is DBC 5896.
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1993 19:32:28 -0800
Subject: XJ40 Dump Module
After a bit of research I’ve found the info on the alternator dump
module. The early XJ40s used a module that allowed the alternator to start
charging at 950 RPM and higher. This was used on the '88 up to VIN 547921.
From 547922 the module was modified to allow the alternator to begin
charging at 750 RPM, which is a realistic idle speed. This information only
applies to the 90 Amp alternator used on the 88 and 89 XJ40s. The part
number for the updated dump module is DBC 4267. Just for a bit of added
info, the alternator was changed to 115 Amps on the '90 cars at VIN 594576.
The part number for the 115 Amp dump module is DBC 5896.
From: shanem@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 95 22:46:14 EST
Subject: Re: 5 speed conversion
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 11/09/95 13:55
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FC42
*** INTERNET ADDRESS - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *****************
Subject: Re: 5 speed conversion
Robert Dingli write re-Dellows :-
This is the part I used for my conversion. They also make a bell
.housing to mate the V12 to the same gearbox. I found them very
helpful and able to supply many of the parts which would normally
be a pain to find - for example, the speedo cable, clutch slave push
rod, mounts and clutch bits.
It uses the standard Jaguar flywheel, starter motor and hydraulics.
The pressure plate is a Ford Falcon part and the friction plate is
a standard Toyota part - both cheaper to replace than the Jaguar
equivalents.
Robert, after reading your list of parts, it looks like it’s going to
cost between $1,800 and $2,000 in parts to make the conversion. I will
need to find a professional shop to do the work, as I’m not an
engineer. Can you suggest any good shops in Sydney/Melbourne who could
do it, and how much you think the cost would run out to ? Hell, I’d even
be prepared to drive down and pay you to do it if you had the time…
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 23:23:42 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S Air Rail failure mode
The hole appeared in the top of the rail on the left hand side over
the front injection point. The hole appears to be caused by internal
heat/corrosion. The PO had this same point brazed before. The new hole
has developed in the last ~3 months.
I’ve been thinking about this. This rail injects cool air into the exhaust
ports, but only when the engine is cold. There is a check valve in the
system. It’s supposed to just sit there as a bunch of inert metal when the
engine is warmed up. The common problem is that the ports get clogged after
a while (see other current messages).
In your case, it almost sounds like the exhaust is coming up the tube and
hitting the back side of the main rail, causing it to corrode from the
inside. I don’t think this should happen, and haven’t heard of it before.
I would suspect a check valve that isn’t working, or a gaping leak in the
plumbing that allows exhaust to readily escape.
I would also suppose there might be a reason for it to be happening at THIS
cylinder. Perhaps you have a burned exhaust valve there or something, and
it has the effect of torching the inside of the air rail.
(Wana sell a air rail?)
I’m keeping mine just in case they get into inspections around here and I
have to reinstall them.
– Kirbert
- If anything is to be accomplished, *
- some rules must be broken. *
-
-- Palm's Postulate *
From: JHFerrell@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 00:52:29 -0500
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V1 #256
how easy is it to change the oxygen sensor. any pointers?
From: “MACKINLAY John @ ZTECHCOMS” E143515@zcompserv.eddept.wa.edu.au
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 95 14:01:00 PST
Subject: FW: Newb
Second attempt after a bounce
From: MACKINLAY John @ ZTECHCOMS
To: jag-lovers-list
Subject: Newb
Date: Wednesday, 8 November, 1995 4:55PM
Hello Everyone
I have subscribed to this list only recently, although I have known about it
since Scott Fisher gave a talk at the club soon after its formation, because
I have decided to see how this e-mail thingy I’ve been given works.
I have had a love-hate relationship with my S11 XJ12L (1975 carbies)
since 1988. I’m sure you all know what I mean
I love it when it goes and I hate it when its all over the workshop floor
again !!!
My wife was right of course, I couldn’t afford it, but the irrational part
of me insisted that a jag was a necessary display item for our large, newly
paved carport and anyway it was time I took on a real mechanical challenge-
V12-Spitfire stuff- much superior to the VW’s I’d worked on while the family
was younger.
It was very tired. New rubber vacuum,water and fuel hoses,Carby kits,New
tyres, Exhaust repairs and front ball joints and we had a car that was
driveable but unreliable. A kiwi mechanic replaced the ignition coil and
Irebuilt the fuel pumps. Still overheating and hard to start. An offer of a
complete set of new pistons and liners from an ex XJS owner was taken up and
so it was out with the motor for a challenging experience
35+ hours of expert workshop assistance and the cylinder heads finally came
off.$$$$$ouch!!!
Crankshaft good, Heads only slightly damaged in the places where they are
exposed to the water on the underside between the cylinder liners oil pump
needs a light rub to remove scratches. Ok major job
New bearings, valves and guides, timing chain and tensioner etc etc It was
fun doing those tappets- all 24 of them !! and what clever pommie engineer
made it impossible to change a shim without taking the camshaft out ??
Power steering ram kit, New brakes, Diff bearings, Autobox rebuild and 2
pack BRG paint What a car
I’ve seen 135 mph on the speedo and copped the odd ticket or 3 but the
Jaguar ride is worth every drop of petrol the monster consumes. I’ve never
driven an engine that will give such a smooth lift to the bonnet no matter
what the roadspeed,
I have carefully omitted all the mistakes and wrong turns in the project and
expect to be able to afford the new leather by the time I’m 88,
Feel free to ask me about this model as I have probably got the same thing
wrong at least once and been able to get it right finally. What other
qualification does one need to be a fellow jag-lover?
John Mackinlay
Education Department of Western Australia
e-mail e143515@zcompserv.eddept.wa.edu.au
Phone (61) 9 264 4860
Fax (61) 9 264 4701
XJ12L 1975 S11 (carbies BRG)
MGB GT 1968 Mk 1 (blue)
Mini Clubman 1976 (white)
Some people deserve all their self inflicted oil leaks…Pommie cars !!
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 00:59:56 -0500
Subject: XK120 ramblings…
Can anyone comment on heater hose routings for XK120’s? I believe that
left-hand and right-hand drive had different routings from the heater core
vertical tube to the long tube that runs under the intake. My car is fairly
original and has a “S” shape pipe that runs in between these two items with
hoses in between. All of the pictures I have seen in the manuals seem to
show right-hand drive cars where the plumbing “Dives” down under the intake.
I think this would interfer with the throttle shaft that runs behind the
engine on left-hand drive cars.
Next; how about leather door panels verses vinyl on OTS. The different
interior suppliers seem to disagree as to when the vinyl took over from the
leather. Some say it happened fairly early in '51 others say the leather
went until '53. Comments?
Third; Two hood/top snaps verses three on the rear tonneau. My car
definitly has only two snaps per side and was built in 8/52. The new
top/hood suppliers seem to think that painted top frames all had three snaps
per side which is obviously wrong. Does anyone know when it went from two to
three?
Forth; Did any cars really make it to the U.S.A. and get sold with PF770
headlights? They are abundant now because of their looks but has anyone seen
any vintage photos with these lights when the cars were new?
Looking forward to discussions…
From: HappyFlyer@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 01:08:49 -0500
Subject: Re: FW: Transmission replacement in England
Why not a four-speed auto (w/OD)…? Harry
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 02:08:23 -0500
Subject: XJ6 Help Booklet
I received a desperate long distance phone call tonight from a guy in
California. He has a copy of my XJ-S help booklet, but unfortunately his
car is a 1986 Vanden Plas. He wanted to know if anyone had taken on the
task of producing a similar booklet for the XJ6, and I had to tell him no.
I told him about our group and that several of you guys had provided some
very excellent information such as that available on Nick’s WWW page, but
nothing that I could tell him someone could print up and mail to him for a fee.
This guy was totally unfamiliar with computers, much less the InterNet and
the WWW – and he lives practically IN Silicon Valley! I suggested he find
someone with Web access and gave him my own WWW page address – which links
to Nick’s.
Being unfamiliar with the SIII Vanden Plas, I couldn’t answer his questions
either. He said that a manual told him about two caps on his cooling
system, but he can only find one on his car, on a plastic tank. He also
could not find a radiator drain at all. I found this last item hard to
believe, since Jaguar had gone to so much effort on the radiator drain on my
'83 XJ-S, with the remote handle and all. It’s hard to believe they would
go from a radically overdesigned radiator drain to no drain at all. He
claimed he had found a coolant drain on the block, though.
-- Kirbert
- If anything is to be accomplished, *
- some rules must be broken. *
-
-- Palm's Postulate *
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 02:08:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Manual conversions
I have personally opted to use a Toyota Supra 5 speed which is commonly
available here secondhand from Japan.
Anyone who is unfamiliar with the “Japanese Take-Out” supply of secondhand
parts, I’ll be happy to fill you in. Briefly, anyone who buys NEW Japanese
engines or drivetrain parts is wasting money!
-- Kirbert
- If anything is to be accomplished, *
- some rules must be broken. *
-
-- Palm's Postulate *
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 08:43:30 GMT
Subject: Re: flywheel and automatics
Dick said re his flexplate etc
Now that I’ve said all that does anyone know how to remove the mushroom
headed dowels?
Yours like mine is obviously an early one. Later dowel were threaded up the
inside, to insert a bolt for extra pull. Early ones like yours and mine were
smooth. I had a tool a worked that I just screwed down the inside, and pulled
them out, they are damned tight.
New ones were available from Jaguar, at least a good few years ago for a few
pence.
- Alastair Lauener Phone 0131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax 0131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying bu08@central.napier.ac.uk *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at Inactive web *
From: Roly Alcock roly@redac.co.uk
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 1995 09:39:41 +0000
Subject: Re: New XJ40 Service Manual
As requested here is the info.
Roly
Thelma Brotton
Jaguar Enthusiats Club
C/O Stoneycroft
Moor Lane
Birdwell
Barnsley
South Yorkshire
S70 5TZ
UK
Telephone +44 1226 740754
Fax +44 1226 293581
Roly,
I am sorry, but I seemed to have missed the original posting. If you could
kindly post the phone number and/or address for these people, I would be
very appreciative.Best Regards,
Toby Prescott
'88 XJ40At 7:20 PM 11/8/95, roly@redac.co.uk wrote:
Further to my previous email, I rang Thelma Brotton, who looks after the
JEC sales and asked her about the content of this new service manual.She did not have any great detail that she could give me, but here are the
salient points.
It is like a condensed edition of the factory manual.
It is not a factory publication.
It is of a better standard than the average Haynes manual.
They are selling well, with no adverse comments coming back.
Roly Alcock, (Postmaster) Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd, TEL: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group Limited, Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane, Internal redac E-mail: roly@redact
Tewkesbury, External E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK Web: http://www.redac.co.uk
End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #257
From: owner-jag-lovers-digest
To: jag-lovers-digest
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V1 #258
Reply-To: jag-lovers
Errors-To: owner-jag-lovers-digest
Precedence: bulk
jag-lovers-digest Friday, 10 November 1995 Volume 01 : Number 258
From: Gunnar.Forsgren@eua.ericsson.se (Gunnar Forsgren)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 10:32:50 +0100
Subject: Re: Re: New BBS
Thanks Jerome for not abandoning your request although it met some
opposition.
I might be prepare to reconsider my initial suggestion
of copyrighting what we write, but we should not ignore
the fact that what we write has considerable commercial value.
The material is a valuable knowledge base in many aspects
of Jag engineering, maintenance, restoration and ownership information.
Also, I can definitely not speak for the whole community, these were only my
spontaneous thoughts.
One good argument is that not every Jaguar fan would be prepare to
invest in an Internet account and the latest computer equipment
in order to read the material.
A BBS would help your local Jag enthusiasts to reach the material
with any old PC and modem.
But I think it may be wise to check what the list members think before
such a service is set up.