I’m itching to get my wheels off and into the basement for some serious cleaning and buffing. What are your thoughts as to jacking the car up and putting it on jack stands? Where would be a safe place to use them that won’t hurt the car?
Yes!
In the front, under the outermost part of the lower control arms, or directly under the inner pivot of same. NEVER, ever under the engine frames. As in NEVER!!!
In the back, under the chassis legs, just forward of the IRS, or under the front trailing arm mount.
Under the front bottom control arm mounting points immediately outboard of the picture frame for the front. If you had a 2+2 I’d suggest the rear jacking points but for a short wheel base I’ve only jacked up a side at a time to remove wheels for cleaning so I can’t help you there.
In the front I use them thusly:
Note; That 3rd stand in the rear isn’t really doing anything, it is just there in case of earthquake or a bonehead move by the mechanic (me).
For the rear like this:
Those have rubber pads on the saddles - I have since mounted a piece of wood at those locations (using existing holes) the purpose of either is to protect the metal channel.
I found both these locations to be very stable but have never had all 4 corners on jack stands at the same time – just seems prudent to avoid that if I can.
The rear set-up I show was to allow the IRS to be dropped out – since you are not doing that, stands under the big front radius arm bushings may also suit.
In case it isn’t obvious, you want to loosen the knock-offs before the car is up on stands.
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That was quick! John I’ll only be doing one side at a time and it’s a roadster not the 2+2. George what does the “jack” sign mean? Can it be jacked up at another spot (front or rear) with a floor jack or does it have to be jacked up under the sill?
The label is on a wood block secured by metal zip ties to the frame member - it is where I always jack the front. The ‘usuals’ sell a block for this purpose but easy to make your own. I used a piece of ‘Trex’, some use oak or similar.
The label is there to try and idiot-proof the task (like the surgeon’s ‘Cut OTHER Leg’).
If I were doing two wheels at a time I think I would do one end at a time (front or rear) rather than one side at a time.
In my opinion an E-Type supported by jack stands on one side does not seem as stable as stands at either end.
You didn’t ask but to jack the rear I use a block of 4x4 under the rear area of the tie plate (slips between the resonators):
There is a bit of Velcro on the block and also on the tie plate so I can just stick the block in place, then run the jack under it.
When I do lift from the side using a floor jack I have a block with a fitting that goes into the stock jack point:
The fitting is round (the jack point is square) so it is easy to align as I want it.
Having just acquired the car I have never jacked it up or for that mater crawled under it. I used an inspector to confirm the condition of the car before buying it long distance. Having said that I’m not sure where the tie plate is but I’m assuming that it will be obvious when I look under it.
Tweety has a custom piece of jarrah wood, brunged to me from Australia, by fellow lister, John Bennett!
I have never been comfortable using jack stands on 4 corners, either. I use stands on one end and ramps on the other, but I don’t actually drive up the ramps. Jack the car up and slide them under.
Rod
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All good suggestions just keep in mind that if you keep the car on jack stands for an extended period of time I would place a jack under the IRS to support it and prevent the rubber mounts from separating.
Marco
When Tweety was up for the winter, I had bare curly hubs that I’d put on, and support the car on jackstands under the hubs. Kept me from getting that icky grease on my legs and offered maximum stability.
Anyone want those hubs? 
I knew that which is why I said “If you had a 2+2”.
Given as you are only cleaning the wheels why not just do one corner at a time.
I wanted to rotate the wheels as well.
So thinking about it where should a garage place their lift? From the looks of things at one time in the past they used the floor boards.
This is what I use:
http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g19124-hot-rimsreg-chrome-wheel-cleaner/
Does a great job.
Oh, that’s different.
If I were doing it. I’d jack up one front side , slip a jack stand under that sides front lower control arm mounting point and clean that wheel Once clean jack up the rear, remove that wheel, replace it with the freshly cleaned one from the front. Then clean the one you just removed and place it on the front, remove jack stand and lower car. Then repeat on the other side.
Don’t forget the splines. When I clean mine off the car I remove the old grease from the splines and replace it with fresh grease; both on the wheel and hub.
Thanks I’ll give it a try. I just ordered some Noxon because I had a discount coupon for it and it gets rave reviews on Amazon and YouTube. In addition to shinning them I also have to take off some rust. If I can’t get them looking new I’ll replace them with Dayton wheels, Meguiars has great products and I use them all the time. This stuff looks nice because it’s a foam.
While they are off I’d like to lube everything but it’s getting pretty cold out so maybe I’ll save that part till next spring.
At least lube front bearings while the wheels are off. As I recall I you can get to everything else with the wheels on.
At least slather a bit of grease on the splines of the wheel while you have it in the basement before you reinstall it. …