Wait!!
Where’d ya stick the MkV?
Don’t worry, it’s in the city. 
I’ve been having trouble with electrickery, it burns the main fuse. I did isolate it to the rear sidelights ( parking lights ) but I need to work on it for the MOT, due before July 1st, every four years. (This year.)
But I have to say although I love it, the V12 E gives a more comfortable ride on the highway, especially with a kitten next to me trying to escape from the box! 
We’re safe here. Cheers! 
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Hi all
Today I finished the car cribs,made them to 12" so I have more room when going under the car.My ramps are about 10" and space is a little tight.Now I need to buy a new jack. Do you guys think that a max height of 20" is about right to place the cribs.
Nice work. I think around 12" is sufficient.
One frequent list contributor, Geo Hahn IIRC, made his in two sections that fit together like the Lincoln Logs you might have had as a child. That allows for greater flexibility, depending on how high you need to raise the car.
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Must have taken a mortgage for the lumber!
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Actually just paid for the 2 1/2 " screws, the lumber about 9 2x4x8 I got from my neighbor who was remodeling some rooms in his house.
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Found the left side hole that was buried under, sealer, primer, and the lip of the footwell. die grinder to relieve the overlap and just like that a 5 min. job is done in a couple of hours
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This Home Depot buy can be worth having. Gives nice clearance and height for working with bonnet full open. I’ve had it up and down about 50 times in last two months chasing the cooling issue.
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Anyone know if series 2 IRS is different from series 3? I might want to rebuild one, then swap it in. Rick
Width of cage, shafts and wishbones are longer on the S3. Discs and callipers might be the same, check part numbers. Shock absorbers and springs are different between the two series.
Very good to know. Thank you!!! Will be cautious about any part buys. Rick
After staring at all the parts the last few weeks, completely stuck in analysis-paralysis, worried I’d mess something up, I decided I had read enough archive articles, and that I was ready to put my oil filter head back on, and install my new exhaust manifold. I put put the filter head all back together on Friday, put a very light coat of Permatex Blue on both sides of the gasket, and attached it to the block yesterday, only finger tight. Today I finished tightening that down, and screwed on my new Wix oil filter. The CoolCat spin on conversion kit worked great.
I clearly didn’t learn my lesson taking off that damn oil return hose, because I put the filter head on and reattached the sump tube first, then spent way too long getting that hose back on, but that’s OK. Next time I will attach the sump tube to the hose first, attach the filter head, then reattach the sump tube.
And then, without too much trouble at all, I put the new exhaust manifold on. Crazy how intimidating this whole exercise was, but now that I did it, I am so excited about how much I keep learning. Thanks to so many of you!
And after I started the engine and made sure nothing was leaking, I peaked at the manual oil filter gauge - it’s the sender!! Woo Hoo!
Good oil pressure at the source, but the gauge on the dash moves a little, then quickly settles back to zero. I never could have imagined that I can now trivially install a new sender on my own!
The only small mistake I made with the entire reassembly was that I guessed wrong about which position was open versus closed on the new EZ oil drain valve I bought. So I lost a few tablespoons of oil when I was refilling the block.
I’ll check in the morning, but after running the engine for 10 minutes, no leaks. Can’t wait to takeher for short drive.
Next up (in a few weeks), replace my really scrappy-looking, taped-up dash pad, with the new Welsh part I recently received.
Thanks again for all your help!
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Isn’t the Series 3 cage the same as the Series 2? I was under the impression that the extra track width on the Series 3 was entirely due to longer half shafts and wishbones, with the cahe being teh same part number C.30286
so what is that exactly???
Pretty sure cage is wider. Any restoration companies out there got two on the floor in bits?
The mid 60’s S Type shafts and wishbones are the same length as S3 E.
Rick I too am wondering which lift you are recommending ? With my limited garage space and low ceiling I am starting to think something like your photo might be best for me and my E. I never have had any kind of lift. Also can we go for a ride in the SNJ / AT-6 (sorta kidding ) ?
David
68 E-type FHC
Hi Pat,
Not wishing to argue, but to me the attachment points and the whole rear floor / seating area of S1 & S2 2+2’s looks the same as S3 2+2 and S3 OTS.
Even the redundent rear sway bar mounting points (but no rear sway bar on S3.)
Cheers!
Hard to see how they can be different when the Jaguar Parts Lists for S2 and S3 both show the part number as C.30286 unless there’s an error in one of the documents. The S1 cages have a different part number which I believe is due to the openings at the front and rear changing for caliper access on the S2.
It’s called a Quickjack. Model BL-5000SLX Home Depot, online. 110v. You can have it delivered to any store. I was going to make one, then realized someone had to have done it already. It’s pretty handy, portable and can be used to lift at the four jack points on the Jaguar.
This is the reason I bought it. My car only had 16000 miles and yet the meatheads that worked on it demolished the torsion boxes and front crossbar viciously. I still see photos of our cars on lifts using that torsion flange and I want to scream.
If you buy one, I’ll show you how I modified rubber lift blocks to fit the car’s lift points. Rick