So now we can assume that the bypass (balance) valve opens in regular operation. Distressing, but it’s something.
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( Sorry…This post relates to xk120, not E-Type. )
I found my Oil Pickup Screen chocked with remnants of the Front Rope Seal.
Unless other cars have a different screen, I see no other way for a chunk the size of piece of Split Pin to get through…other than at that hole in the center. Perhaps the Screen was pushed down and the center was not sealed by the ’ Cover Piece ’ labeled C2228.
Thanks for the clarification! I was trying to figure out what E-type that was out of… 
The filter on the pickup is designed considerably different than that, for Es.
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In my case, the split pin split the oil pump case… new pump. No warning, just no oil pressure.
My oil pump’s outer rotor was cracked, from who knows what.
Philip,
Before dismantling your pin shaped oil pump, did you still have correct or somewhat decreased oil pressure?
Oil pressure was ok. Not top end but nothing to be concerned about. I only ran it briefly after purchase so can’t remember exactly, but wasn’t concerned.
Anti seize on those bolts I hope. Good work👍
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I put another 80 miles on the old Jag yesterday. The mile digit on the trip odometer always finishes rotating about one half mile too far. What’s the fix for this?
On my 911, I had to replace a gear to get the odometer working again. It was fiddly but not too difficult.
acceptance
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Pay less attention to the miles that you’ve driven, and more attention to the fun you’re having?
Jus’ spitballin’, here.
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I thought that resetting the trip odometer might do the trick. It did!!! I then put an undisclosed number of miles on the old girl and the trip odo continued to behave. I imagine it will revert back to it’s bad behavior at some point.
BTW, ever since I got the car back on the road, it would usually take quite a bit of cranking to get it to start. And I’d wait until the fuel pump stopped ticking before hitting the starter. But, I wasn’t able to use it very often. Now that I’m driving it at least once a week, it starts right up. And what a pleasure it is to drive.
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Well sometimes you’ve just gotta put down the wrenches and go do something else!
Been a bit distracted with other stufff but got back to the irs today ( I’ve done this job3 times) fitted and shimmed the dog bones …wired them up then thought I’d better wire up the attachment brackets for the brake calliper set up ……thoughtfully someone had put the brackets on …… so I wired them up , swearing like a trouper with such limited room , admired my work …. Took off the cage ……. I’d only wired 2 of the 3 bolts ……… time for a rest ………
However it occurs to me that the invention of Loctite and its application here may have saved a lot of swearing ….what do you gals and guys think?
I’ve used LockTite in a number of similar situations without regret. We’ve made a lot of advances in the past 60 years…
Been concentrating on resolving oil leaks on the newly acquired '64 coupe. Complete side of passenger block was coated in oil. Knowing that a common leak area is the cylinder head bolts at the front that go through the block, I installed a couple of stat-o-seal washers. Wow what a difference. Totally stopped the previous oil dripping from the bolts. Its amazing what appeared as a small leak actually was huge. For a change it was great finding a cheat, quick solution. JS
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That’s the same method I used on my 3.8, and it completely eliminated the leaks.
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Swapped out the cap on the 123 Distributor for the Bosch cap. It could be the placebo effect but it seemed to immediately idle smoother. I’ll know more after I get some miles on it but was worthwhile while the original black 123 cap was still working “ok”.
I had same area issues in a motor …… caused by the head being without blind holes in that area …… fixed by using bolts rather than stud and nut as the oil was running out the thread …… used some loctite and a couple of drops from above to seal the blind end …… perfect …until it’s needed to be undone !
My 123 cap is red. Does anyone know the difference or just a color change