That’s bizarre. Were you lighting particularly hot lamps or had the spade connector lost tension and created an arc? I think I’l recrimp mine just to be safe.
They were—are—Hella H3s… more draw than stock.
The other 50-year connector seemed fine!
Finally got the heads in place and the cams aligned and tensioner released. The heads are not completely torqued yet but in enough to keep the liners solid. Still fretting over whether or not to buy all new grade 5 chromed acorn nuts.
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Removed the LH exhaust manifolds and studs.
The last stud wouldn’t extract and I could sense it would shear.
I used a proven technique I used before on my Mercedes V8. I welded a nut onto the stud as the cherry red heat also penetrates the stud into the head. Voila…it undid without any further drama…much to my relief!
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Today I offered up the rear cage to the car which was in the mood to decline the offer.
I don’t see how people can put this in from the side because the trailing arms interfere with clearance.
Eventually I got the ********** **** into the car but the last six ****** bolts took about 45 min. apiece.
As some one mentioned tipping the front of the unit up after the rear bolts is helpful. Fortunately I have two floor jacks and 12 stands as the magic alignment required several rotate and De rotate actions until at last the magic combination was achieved and the front horizontal bolts went home relatively easily.
And every ******* packing piece was replaced as found but you may be able to replace those *** **** things in a new car with just paint on the metal but no amount of persuasion would slide them home until I removed the lower horizontal bolt.
Breaking my diet and now having BEER!
(This post has been heavily redacted)
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The BEST. POST. EVER!!!
After a somewhat self inflicted overheating issue in the autumn and subsequently leaking hoses that I couldn’t tighten to make leak free again, I opted for a set of new hoses. A complete set of silicone hoses no less. I figured that if the Evans waterless coolant can handle the occasional high temp, the hoses should be able to do so as well. Since I smelled coolant when running the heater, I opted for a new heater element as well. The excess heat and maybe pressure showed some weak points in one of the connecting tubes between the radiator and thermostat housing, so a new matching replacement pair was ordered.
Never boring … Ole
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Is that a Samco kit? They are available in all sorts of colours from Pink to Camo, I was looking at the BRG kit. Not sure if I require a series 1 or series 2 kit as I’m installing a series 1 4.2 in my series 2?
Yes, it’s a Samco Sport kit that I purchased through SNG. Try asking SNG if there’s a difference between the Series 1 & 2 kits,
Cheers … Ole
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…speaking of polishing. I am looking for suggestions to bring back the luster to my aluminum bits (all bits for that matter). I need some suggestions. This seems to just move the muck around. Maybe it’s my process. HELP!
However you polish aluminum, remember to make the last step a polish with s soft cloth, and corn starch: you will be AMAZED!!!
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I’ve never taken that step. What’s it do,l remove the residual black gunk?
It does, and in a way Ive never seen, with any other final polish.
It also imparts a beautiful deepness to the luster.
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Have tried it, can confirm. I’m not sure if it solely removes the residue or if it also acts as an ultra fine finishing polish. I suspect the former though as it’s not necessary to rub hard. I’ve found it’s best to rub it well into the cloth fibers before applying it to the metal surface so no dust poofs out. I also love the name “Clabber Girl”. It just sounds badass.
Edit: just looked up the etymology of the phrase Clabber Girl…it’s uh, unusual. Fun fact, the same company that makes this also owns the Indianapolis Motor Speedway.
Yes…
Your technique is the same as mine: I daub the cloth into a bowl of corn starch, then wipe off the aluminum.
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,bd[quote=“69Cat, post:206, topic:358680”]
am looking for suggestions to bring back the luster to my aluminum bits (all bits for that matter). I need some suggestions.
[/quote]
My go to polish for aluminum, chrome and jewelry has always been ”Autosol”. Comes in a tube. Seen at Eastwood and Amazon.
I will try the corn starch tip next time for sure.
Cheers … Ole
Today - nothing. The cam oil feed banjos hurt my feelings yesterday so there. Love withdrawal. That‘ll teach‘em.
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The best chrome polish I have come across is a German product called “Autosol Metal Polish”. Unbelievable results. Comes in a small tube & available at most automotive shops.
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Another…if still available…is Simichrone.
I’ve used that and it’s good stuff. Another is Meguiars Hot Rims Mag and Aluminum Polish. I’ve been using the same 8oz. tub for years.