I just decided to go for silicone. Expensive, but piece of mind for years to come I think.
Cheers … Ole
Hi Lester, yes nice ROAD TRIP 2500 km, stay in one time in Hotel in Hongaria, every year building something there, last year made floorheating upstairs, this year maybe downstairs and leave my Jaguar e type 3.8L FHC here in the garage. Missing her.
Took my E to have the front end measured and adjusted. 15min sunny but cold open drive (-5C). No rain(!). I had renewed all the bushings but haven‘t had it measured in yet. We‘ll see how successful the rudimentary setting was. Workshop nearby does Alfa racing setups.
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Split my intakes with door shims! Gently separated 50 years of togetherness. Need a good suggestion for removing all core plugs. My first attempt didn’t behave.
Also, does anybody know if these bolts/studs are threaded into the castings or pressfit?
They’re threaded in, I removed all of them for replating when I restored my engine.
Steve, to remove the core plugs I have used a slide hammer with a large size sheetmetal screw on the end. I have often been able to knock them in on one side and it will sometimes spin 90 degrees then use vice grips to grab and pull out. Depending on where thy are and access just drive it in and use the vice grips. Cheers Jim
That’s what I do, with access: knock’em sideways, then pull’em out with vise grips (cup style).
Martin,
Took my '64 in yesterday for the second alignment attempt in a week. In the first effort last week the shop owner discovered that the left tie rod had play at the inboard (steering rack) end, and the upper left ball joint had a tiny amount of play as well. I went back home and readjusted both…properly set the tie rod per the book this time, and added a shim to the (already new) upper ball joint.
With the upper A-arms preset at roughly mid-point on the threads, it netted 2.5 degrees positive on both sides. Camber on the right side with a single 1/32" shim was 1/4 degree negative. Camber on left side with no shims was zero. We decided to leave well enough alone and set the toe at zero per the shop owner recommendation. I had been planning to get the left side upper pivot blocks/fulcrums machined, but will see how this set up works. I asked him if reducing the castor to 2 degrees or maybe a little less would reduce steering wheel forces when parking (205 tires and 14.5" Nardi steering wheel). He said you’d never notice it. I need the knee clearance to even get in the dang thing and won’t give up the V rated Sumitomos. So it is what I is…superb…once it’s moving.
You pretty much hit it out of the park going in; Lucky guy. I had to machine my blocks to get the negative camber I wanted, I’m at 0.4 and 2.5 castor. I’m also running 205/70s and think the steering is pretty light for not having power steering. You’ll be just fine, even the smaller wheel.
2018 POSTER GIRL
Hi Guys,
Apologies for the late posting.
What I did with my E Type last month.
The theme of the 22nd annual George Old Car Show presented by the Southern Cape Old Car Club was British cars.
My E Type was the 2018 ‘Poster Girl’.
The event was kicked off with a four-day, thousand mile vintage car tour. Fifty pre-1930 cars participated.
Good weather and about 13,000 visitors ensured a successful weekend.
Approximately a 1000 cars, trucks, bikes and stationary engines as well as a huge collection of model cars were on display during the two day event.
Regards
Chris
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I do hope the rest of the project is in better shape, Steve.
Steve, where is the chrome? Don’t know this part on a e type, without it.
Frank.
Steve, the good thing about the state of the exhaust pipes is that there is no question as to if it can be put back in to service. Mine looked similar but without the biomass (they preferred to nest in my seat cushions). I have the rusty exhausts with chrome remnants put away in a corner of the yard. Can´t get myself to throw it away.
The chrome got lost somewhere in the last 50 years I guess? I had to cut the down pipes from one of the manifolds. Here is the full pipe. Is it worth keeping and/or repairing?
Ya know, stainless steel was put on my car twenty five years ago, just before I bought the PrtyKty, and they are still like new and easy to remove/install. You planning on keeping the car long?
LLoyd
In order to keep our big corporations prosperous, make the one percenters richer, and give the working class the artificial impression of prosperity, we require a small, controlled war in at least one country at all times.
LLoyd 2006
2 Likes
I see nothing there that should go back into service.
On mine I went with stainless except for the mufflers. Based on comments here I decided I would prefer the sound of the mild steel mufflers.
Not unless you’re operating on a very tight budget. Full SS kits are quite affordable, look great, are simple to install, and will last for the rest of the car’s life.
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The way I see it, I am four support points away from having the engine out; the two engine mounts, the bulkhead mount, and the support plate under the gearbox. Before I remove the gearbox support bracket, do I need to have the engine supported from the top, removing some of the weight from the frame? If I plan on lifting the car up and dropping the engine out, I guess I need to know at what point the engine needs to be supported. Help!
Oh, and the nuts are off the prop but the bolts are still captivated. Is that a problem?
No. Just slide the prop shaft back a few inches. Might be a little stiff on the splines but it should go.