What did you do to your E-Type today? (Part 1)

[ysmalkie (Tadek)]

I think I finally have an opportunity to post here

Freshly cadmium plated parts, all 140lbs of them.

And here is early morning sun shining on …:

Tadek

[Geoff (Geoff Allam)]

I am busy today cutting out the floors on my ots. Unfortunately the car was previously restored and the “body shop” that did the work used flat sheets of 18 gauge steel welded to everything they could access. A real mess and very difficult to remove. I am trying to inventory what I need in new sheet metal parts. Could someone who has replaced floors tell me if the parts circled in the picture come with the robey floor panels or if they have to be ordered separately?

[Geoff (Geoff Allam)]

Very nice! would it be rude to ask where you had it done and how it was priced?

[John_Walker (69 FHC. . . $ via PayPal)]

@69Cat

The way I see it, I am four support points away from having the engine out; the two engine mounts, the bulkhead mount, and the support plate under the gearbox. Before I remove the gearbox support bracket, do I need to have the engine supported from the top, removing some of the weight from the frame? If I plan on lifting the car up and dropping the engine out, I guess I need to know at what point the engine needs to be supported. Help!

Oh, and the nuts are off the prop but the bolts are still captivated. Is that a problem?

That’s what old worn out screwdrivers and pry bars are for. slip it in between the flanges and push the drive shaft back until it’s free of the bolts.

First release the stabilizer, what you are calling the bulkhead mount. Then just slip a jack under the transmission and remove the rear mount, keeping the transmission in position. Last of all remove the nuts at the top of the engine mounts and either jack up the engine, or lift it with an engine hoist by the lifting brackets and remove the engine mount brackets from the engine itself. Then lower away.

MAKE SURE THOUGH that you have removed, released or disconnected the following:

1. All coolant hoses running to the radiator and bulkhead fittings.
2. All ground straps, there should be just one, unless a PO added one.
3. the line to the clutch slave cyl.
4. The cable from the battery to the starter, at the starter. (you’ve already removed the battery, right?
5. The oil filter canister.
6. All electrical lines running from the wiring harness to the engine.

[ysmalkie (Tadek)]

They come complete with these parts.
I have entire floor ready from them, I can a photo later on if you need it.
Tadek

[MartinScherz]

Tadek, great view of things!!

[ysmalkie (Tadek)]

Poland - I am afraid probably a bit too far for you?..

I did not yet pay for everything, so I am not sur on the total. There is more in the pipeline, screws, nuts and bolts…

Tadek

[MartinScherz]

Geoff, I can confirm MR sent the floor panels with the circled parts mounted. Additionaly I had the cups mounted, i believe that had to be specifically ordered.

They were of good fit on my S2 OTS

[Erica_Moss]

Tadek, Lovely parts! FYI, they’ll stay looking lovely a whole lot longer if you coat them with something to protect them. I was introduced to a product on this forum called ACF50 that has kept most of my plated parts looking pretty for 18 years. Not sure if you can get that, or get something similar where you are.

[Ahwahnee (Geo Hahn 1969 Series 2 OTS)]

@69Cat

Oh, and the nuts are off the prop but the bolts are still captivated. Is that a problem?

@John_Walker1

That’s what old worn out screwdrivers and pry bars are for. slip it in between the flanges and push the drive shaft back until it’s free of the bolts.

Actually, I think those bolts remain captive unless you further disassemble the gearbox. Mine stayed in place throughout removal and install:

[John_Walker (69 FHC. . . $ via PayPal)]

@Ahwahnee

Actually, I think those bolts remain captive unless you further disassemble the gearbox. Mine stayed in place throughout removal and install:

Yes, I agree. But he will need to push the drive shaft back until it’s clear of those bolts. His picture shows the bolts still in the holes in the drive shaft flange.

[Erica_Moss]

Which in case he has not noticed it yet is at the rubber drive shaft boot covering the sliding splines. Mine was hard to move but once I realized where is was supposed to move, it wasn’t too hard to provide adequate encouragement.

[69Cat (Steve)]

I did miss the clutch line. I was going to use the “drop” engine technique by supporting it from below and lifting the car up and over. But what about the reaction plate.

[ysmalkie (Tadek)]

@Erica_Moss

ACF50

Thanks Erica!

Which one?

acf-50.co.uk

tadek

[Erica_Moss]

I have had the aerosol cans but then just purchased the quart bottle. I’ve been working on that same bottle for over a decade.

[John_Walker (69 FHC. . . $ via PayPal)]

@69Cat

did miss the clutch line. I was going to use the “drop” engine technique by supporting it from below and lifting the car up and over. But what about the torsion plate. ( sorry if I’m using the wrong terms but I’m all dirty and don’t want to go in the house to look up the correct terminology “

Not a problem. Whatever you call it, it has to come out

[69Cat (Steve)]

Does anybody have a guide for what items are under stress and have catastrophic results if done improperly?

[Erica_Moss]

I know of no such guide and would worry about its completeness. Best to just ask here before unbolting things. As I mentioned previously the transmission mount definitely is as it has a big spring over it, so jack against it before removing the bolts.

The t-bar reaction plate is definitely is under pressure.

[Geoff (Geoff Allam)]

Thanks Tadek and Martin. That was the answer I was hoping for.

[69Cat (Steve)]

anyone have a photo of the rubber boot you are referring to? Is it on one of the ends of the drive shaft? I used a pry bar to gently try to separate the two flanges but only one half are clear because the drive shaft flange pivots.