What did you do to your E-Type today?


(William H Wayman 1970 S2 DHC) #2490

First I cannot take credit for the idea of a hidden subframe, I was inspired by monocoupe Metalworks. See here http://www.monocoque-metalworks.com/main/category/how-to-hidden-subframe/
I installed 5 of the 6 tubes he uses. I made mine instead of buying the tubes from him. The hidden rocker tubes are installed so that the lower outer corner was flush with the inside surface of the outer rocker panel. This puts the bottom of it about 1/8" above the floor. I also reused the original stiffeners by notching them so the tube would slip under them. I also used 3/16 SS rivets to attach the tubing to the inner rockers and floor in addition to welding.


(Ed Overmyer) #2491

The pictures bring up a regret. One of those “while you’re in there” thoughts. I think the recess for the driver’s seat could be extended maybe an inch or so into the box beam and the seat tracks moved back. The extra legroom sure would be nice.
Ed


(67 OTS S1) #2492

I agree, would have been nice! My only thought was to add an additional stiffener plate above the mid-rocker jacking point. It came to mind after I noticed that the “body shop” that replaced my rocker panel never welded it to the floor all along the seam.


(Nick Saltarelli) #2493

My take is simply increasing the scallop behind the driver’s seat by an inch might cut too deeply into the box beam, considering the original design was without the scallop entirely. You would need to reinforce the panel with several internal stiffeners.

I’m of two minds wrt the practical advantage of a hidden subframe in a monocoque that has been restored to original spec. It would greatly help to keep the structure rigid as it deteriorates with age but where I have observed flexing damage in Es, particularly the open cars, is at the B post when it has been compromised by rust, manifested by paint chipping at the door shut face. I’ve also seen collapsing sills at the midships jacking point, also associated with thinning of the sheet metal to rusting. There may also be an advantage to the hidden subframe in competition, though there would be some additional weight added.

I had a couple of phone chats with Chuck Hadley on different subjects while I was doing my total restoration, decided in the end to forego the subframe mod. No regrets, but I’m sure I’d have no regrets otherwise, too.


(Geoff Allam) #2494

I also considered the idea of installing a hidden subframe but decided against it as I had doubts about how much rigidity a 1x2 inch tubing would add over a span of about 4 feet. I have a small bending brake so I formed up a series of 3 18 gauge vstiffeners to span between the two factory ones. Martin Robey markets a one piece panel that is similar. My reasoning that the addition of the 3 panels plus the 4 extra pinch welds would add both bending and torsional rigidity but who knows. I am a veterinarian not an engineer! Plus I had left over sheet metal so it was cheap😀. The picture is from the trial fitting. I do not think I will bother when I do my coupe but I was a bit concerned about paint chipping on the ots.

v


(67 OTS S1) #2495

Actually, I think you may have gotten it exactly right. I added a single stiffener in the middle, but three makes it even better. My concern was more driven by the location of the jacking point in the middle without any internal strengthening.


(Geoff Allam) #2496

The single stiffener in the middle seems to be a pretty common addition even in restoration shops. I figured if one is good 3 must be better!


(john schwamm) #2497

I use avgas, 100 LL, gives the valves a bit of lead for lube and avgas does not go bad. Smells different in exhaust, but my pipes are nice light grey, fires up instantly, even after sitting a bit.
Live on a private airport, so easy access for fuel, about $1 more than ethanol 93 oct.
John


(Eric) #2498

…and if three is good… (from this website http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,38597 )


(Geoff Allam) #2499

Yeah… that might be just a bit beyond my fabrication skills. Might be hard for the next owner to take it back to original!


(William H Wayman 1970 S2 DHC) #2500

My jacking point was missing, It’s the center one on the OTS and FHC, can someone post a photo and a dimension so I can fab something. Thanks


(Craig Dearth) #2501


Just about 1 1/4" square - this is on a Robey replacement panel.


(Craig Dearth) #2502

Close up to show spot welds and support plate…


(Geoff Allam) #2503

This is in a new Robey floor not an original.

!
Measured from the back edge of the outer sill.


(69 FHC ) #2504

That’s what mine measures as well. If you fabricate something your self a good double check would be to make sure what you fabricate fits in the square lifting appliance on the end of your factory jack.


(Geoff Allam) #2505

Just rechecked my post and realized it was not clear. The first picture is the measurement from the back edge of the outer sill in case you need to know wpexactly where to locate the jacking point.


(Alfred - hobby beekeeper) #2506

I added my new personal plate today. The previous owner called her Lilly, so it made it simple to create.


(Bob K - 1964 FHC) #2507

Today (really, over the past couple of weeks) I disassembled, cleaned and reinstalled my oil cleaner assembly. I was experiencing low (zero) oil pressure. I was told that one possible cause was debris getting jammed in the oil pressure relief valve, causing it to remain open, eliminating any pressure to be “seen” by the oil pressure sender.

Getting the assembly off the car was a tedious and messy job as I’m sure many of you have experienced. Once disassembled, I found two small pieces of metal inside:

Anyone recognize what those are? Cotter pin fragments?

I was missing a number of small parts from the cleaner assembly, and a few others were crushed and/or worn. (Photo below is of the rubber washer under the bolt head (6158), old one on left, new one on right:

The replacements included the felt washer inside the canister, the rubber washer under the canister bolt head, the gasket between the cleaner assembly block and the engine block, the filter element and its sealing ring, the washer under the pressure relief valve and the washer under the balance valve. For those who may read this in the future, I will note that all of the replacement parts (ordered from SNG Barratt) worked fine, except for the washer under the balance valve (8103). This was not SNG’s fault: their catalog and online system did not include 8103, but did offer RTC1142 which was marked as suitable for a Series 1 4.2. I thought it worth gambling $0.40 to see if the 4.2 version fit my 3.8. It didn’t. So I went to Home Depot and bought a fiber washer with the correct inside diameter but oversize outside diameter; my daughter trimmed it to fit (her version on left below, RTC1142 on right):

Reinstall was a PITA. One challenge: how to keep the gasket aligned when refitting the oil cleaner block to the engine block? I could only work one bolt at a time, so the gasket kept falling off or migrating out of position. I ended up using two rubber bands around the oil cleaner block and gasket as I mounted it, and just before tightening down, I cut the rubber bands and pulled them clear. I will also note for future readers that my replacement gasket was a fiber material whereas the old one I pulled out (on the right in the photo below) was a stiffer plastic-type material:

I also had some trouble getting the hose clamps properly located on the hose that runs from the oil pressure relief valve downpipe to the oil pan, but eventually got that right.

I took the car for a 30’ spin this morning on neighborhood streets. (We’re expecting snow tomorrow, so the county has applied Jaguar repellent to all of the major roads.) Oil pressure is now in the 5-15 psi range, depending on engine RPM (15 psi when running at 2500 rpm), which, as my father used to say, is better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick. But its still not where it ought to be, is it? I should mention that the dipstick shows full, and I’m using Mobil 1 10W30. I’d welcome any suggestions regarding further trouble-shooting.

Bob


(Paul Wigton) #2508

First, pinch off the return hose: if the pressure rises, the pump is up to the task.

The bypass valve can look perfectly good, but not work: I replaced mine, and went from 5 psi at idle, hot, to 20, and 40 at cruise.


(Robert Thomas 68 FHC ) #2509

Hmm… not sure about your oil. I would hesitate to use a 10-30 oil, unless the engine was really fresh. Otherwise I would go with 20-50, but I’m in California. I’m assuming most of your driving is done on nice days. Just a thought.