What is Next Regarding the Head Installation

List:

In preparation for installation of the head, I coated the bottom stud threads with high temperature black grease, and did the same with the threads in the block. I covered the top end of each stud with electrical tape and made a “cap” out of the upper end to protect the valves as I slowly dropped the head. I raised the head up above the height of the studs with a block and tackle. However, I could not proceed because the head is about 12 inches too far forward. I will push the car forward after pumping up the tires to maximum pressure. I ran out of times on Saturday, so I decided to continue later this week. It was only later on Friday that it occurred to me that I had not placed the head gasket in place. OPPS!

What else, if anything, should I do before dropping the head into place? To minimize the chances of forgetting something else important, I am asking, what else should I have done in preparation of dropping the head on to the block. Thus far, I have drained the coolant from the engine, dried out the remaining coolant in the block, including the threads in the block, with compressed air and Q-tips. I painted the head studs with two coats of high quality metal paint, coated the bottom end of the studs, and the threads in the block, with black high temp grease. I installed th studs with 20 lbs. of torque I loosed the bolts on the head so that the two open valves are not protruding beyond the bottom of the head. I covered the protruding end of the studs with electrical tape.

I WILL put the head gasket in place before lowering the head on to the block.

Is there anything else I should do?

Thanks
Lou

ensure the timing chains/sprockets are correctly positioned & held,
so they dont interfere with the head on the way down

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Absolutely ensure that the engine is set at TDC, Lou…

And the cams should be set to their proper position using the cam setting tool - where they will be with the head on and the engine at TDC. While loosening the cam bolts is sort of OK, though unnecessary; the cams must be correctly set…

Placing an turning the cams willy-nilly may cause valves to snag each other - which may bend them. I trust you followed the proper procedures when assembling the head…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Take the tape off the studs. It isn’t needed, shouldn’t be there and will probably cause trouble during fitment or later total removal - probably both.

In addition to the good advice above for setting the crank at TDC, check that the distributor is in the firing position for the front spark plug rather than the rear, so the ignition timing will match the camshaft timing.

All I can add is to “ditto” to Pete’s instruction. A notch above suggestion !!! No useful thing to be accomplished. alloy will not bugger the threads a bit. Nor will the threads hurt the alloy.
But, loose tape sure can bollix the process…

Carl

If you follow the workshop manual religiously you can’t get into too much trouble. Also, clean out the cam oil line and new washers on the banjo fittings. Paul