I bought my 64 from Dick Howe, who was a long time JCNA official that I known for a number of years from various JCNA activities. After purchasing the car I later found out that someone else had offered him more then I did but he sold it to me as he felt that I’d give “HIS” car a better home! Fast forward to 3-4 years later, after my son and I had finished a several year restoration, to Church Hill Downs race track, the morning of the Louisville Jaguar Clubs Concours, and I found Dick standing and just staring at ”HIS” car. When I asked Dick what was going on he told me that he was trying to figure out if there were any loop holds in our purchase agreement! If any of you knew Dick you’d agree that that was about as close to humor as he ever came !
Bob
889076
Plymouth, Mi.
wallstman1 -
I also have a S-III, I’ve had mine for 30 years, it’s a '72 - I guess that means you bought yours new?
FWIW, I’ll add to the most challenging job - I’ve still not been able to get a grease fitting over the Zerk on the forward u-joint on the driveshaft. Was just down to the local garage (yes, the one which caused me a bit of grief on the hatch), and had a 90-degree fitting, still couldn’t get it done. When I go back, we’ll either take off the rear transmission support plate, or drop the exhaust so we can get the heat shield down, then it’ll be right in front of us.
I looked at the factory hole in the tunnel just forward of the passenger seat, it’s way too far forward to give you any help.
TameCAT
Mike B
[quote=“TameCAT, post:63, topic:350898”]
I’ve still not been able to get a grease fitting over the Zerk on the forward u-joint on the driveshaft… we’ll either take off the rear transmission support plate, or drop the exhaust so we can get the heat shield down, then it’ll be right in front of us.[/quote]
They make long Zerks (about 1 1/8") that work well on U-Joints as it can be hard to get the tip of the gun over the little Zerk in that confined space. Since the tunnel hole is not aligned well with the UJ perhaps a right angle attachment would reach it better.
Here are both, side-by-side:
I wouldn’t want to take the support plate or exhaust apart every time I did a lube job.
Ahwahnee-
I procured the fitting on the right to try to conquer this zerk - failure!
I will procure the extended zerk so that between the two, I can get 'er done.
It’s probably been close to 20 years (maybe 5000mi) since this troublesome zerk was hit. BAD owner, BAD driver!!!
Thanks for sharing this - I didn’t know they made them longer…
TameCAT
Mike B
If it’s an issue of poor alignment between the access hole in the cover and
the grease fitting, I had the same problem. Given that this would occur
every time I need to great the fitting, I drilled a suitable sized hole in
the tunnel, directly over the fitting and use a plug to cover it when done.
Future operations should be easy!
They used to come on all Hardy-Spicer U-joints - that’s where I first encountered them.
Zounds - it looks like they may even sell them at Wal-Mart:
Bob, love that!! I know that mentality doesn’t float all boats but it
works for me.
pauls
Nice to see you here on “The Dark Side”, Lloyd !
My vote is for installation of the radio/center console with a new Retro_air A/C. Nothing fit and I messed up and replaced lots of vinyl. Not fun. I may change my mind after I tackle the torsion bars next week. Love the guy who said the toughest job was hiding the invoices from his wife.
This is the last item remaining for me to finish up my Retro Air installation in a '64. I’m curious how you approached this and other aspects of fitting the kit. I’ll send you a PM.
where do you get the extended fittings? I haven’t seen those for years.
auto part store zerks fit poorly.
I see some one has answered above
they are “out of stock”
the chandelier adds class.
Yeah, before that went up, the joint was a feckin’ dump…and look at it now…
Exactly what I’m between making! I would really benefit from seeing the insides of a finished but not fitted console as I haven’t the only guide photos I had… much appreciated, it’s to go on an OTS RHD Manual
Replacing and adjusting the “kick down” cable for an auto trans.
Mine was broken so it needed replacing. The 1st nightmare was getting tgetting the piece removed from the transmission. There is a small removable piece on the left side of the transmission tunnel that gives you access, sort of. Removing the old cable was easy…installing, not so much. Getting it threaded past the bulkhead was like fishing for your keys that you left on your car seat when you locked yourself out. When I finally got the end near the port on the tranny, i had no room to start the bolt that held down the cable end. I had no choice but to make cuts in the tranny tunnel to make room to grt the bolt started. Once the bolt was in place, I had to repeair my butchering job. I folded the metal back so there were just slits and then I JB welded (I think) it back together. I put some extra insulation on the slits to keep heat and other gases out of the cock pit.
Thennnnnn, I had to attach the cable to the carb rod. You need a 4 year old’s size hands to squeeze between the firewall and the engine to get that tiny nut on the end of the cable.
Thennnnnn, you are supposed to adjust the cable with a pressure gauge attached to the tranny and check the pressure and the shift points and blah blah blah…argh. I never did adjust it quite right but it was certainly better than it was before.
Here is a low tech solution that has worked for me for 5 years and counting. My nozzles were loose and as I tried to tighten them the retaining nuts came off so that the nozzles lifted out of the hole. What to do? Crazy glue! Small amount place on the underside of the nozzle, pressure down in place about a minute and they held! Not an elegant fix, not concours approved, but my nozzles work and have stayed in place.
*1, on the heater pipes…
^NEVER AGAIN.*
Heater pipes are on my To Do list after suspension and brakes. Cant wait…
Everything takes much longer than you expect from changing a light bulb to rebuilding a transmission. But my vote is for adjusting the torsion bars.