What modifications will not reduce value

Oh, and I do hope you do report on how their noses pop out of joint… :slight_smile:

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If the paint is indeed original, that’s definitely worth a premium especially if it is presentable.

A color change on a non original paint car will not affect the value as long as it is well done. That means frames, firewall, door sills and pillars… anything that is visible

Mechanical/reliability upgrades won’t have any impact either since they are easily reversible. Keep the parts.

As to the headlights, it may turn off some potential buyers but I think will appeal to others. After all, the change was prompted by silly US regulations and considered less attractive.

I converted my series 3 to series 1 headlights.

It is indeed the LF: I have 2 quarts plus a quart of hardener for anybody who wants to pay an appropriate price.

If mods affect resale, my car will be worth about $5 when it’s done! :grin:

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I have always been a little ambivalent about both designs but the clincher is the glass covers are a key feature of Malcolm Sayer’s brilliant design and aerodynamic aesthetic and, to some small extent, function - I seem to recall someone claiming the open headlights reduce top speed by 3-4 mph, but that’s anecdotal and not especially relevant. No doubt the open headlights illuminate the road better but modern replacements for the original sealed beam glowworm lamps have mitigated that concern considerably. The heavy S1 chrome surrounds are, well, a bit of a kludge but that’s the only tradeoff.

DP was superseded by DPLF (“Lead Free”) which was in turn superseded by DPLV (“low volatiles). Both changes in formulation reduced the quality of the product. I used DPLF for my restoration and it’s still pretty good stuff. I have an unopened gallon of another brand of black epoxy primer I’ve used previously with good results, otherwise I’d be interested in yours.

I’m not sure that’s true since the light from the headlights pretty much travels parallel to the painted surface of the sugar scoops. That said I’d still paint the correct silver.

Yes, especially considering the E-type has a CD of anywhere between .44 and .40, depending on which car magazine article you happen to read. For reference a Ford Transit Connect has a CD of just under .32. But the Transit Connect isn’t nearly as sexy.

I used up the last of my PPG original DP primer about six months agl, and have since used both PPG and Eastwood lead free (and I think chromate free) variants. That lead chromate is a pretty nasty carcinogen I must admit.

But my question regards the colour. I used DP40 (light green) and have bought similar light colours subsequently. I noticed black was available, but thought it odd, probably based on painting drywall and the like where one usually chooses a light coloured primer. So what’s the advantage of black primer? Is it to serve as a built in guide coat? To make sure the base or topcoat is thick enough?

Here is my version of opalescent dark green which in my opinion is better than BRG …… it has life




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Yes, it makes for a great guide coat when metal finishing after welding in patch panels. You spray a thin coat onto the bare steel, let it set then go over it with 80 grit paper in a sanding block. It shows up the highs and lows really well and greatly facilitates finishing the panel with a dolly and slapper. Once that’s done a single coat is applied over very clean steel, followed by a couple of wet coats of urethane primer/surfacer. Block sanded then a second guide coat applied. More primer/surfacer if required. Final block sanding then a final epoxy sealer coat before colour. You would want to use a light coloured sealer coat for lighter finished coats. White, if you’re shooting silver, for example. Both my cars are colour-sanded and buffed BRG, so a dark sealer coat is preferable to a light one.

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Thank you for the inputs I appreciate the info!

Hi David, the sugar scoops were never silver, the judging manual states silver to medium gray. I have NEVER seen a silver one from back in the day when they were new. I have an original sugar scoop and it is definitely gray metallic. Regards,
Allen

Allen,
Sorry. I was using the term silver loosely. As I understand it the restoration shops now use opalescent silver grey, but I don’t know how accurate that is.
-David

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