It looks like this is (and thank you replies from prior post) this is a Series 1.5 OTS built in early February 1968. It appears the body, engine block and gearbox are all numbers matching. It has, however, covered headlamps. It also has a full grill surround, and UK-spec Amber signal lights in front. But US all red tail lights in back. The color is Pale Primrose and looks like it’s the original paint, a yellow color I don’t particularly like.
My question is … if I want to paint it British Racing Green, replace the Strombergs with Triple SU carbs, and replace the rocker switches with toggles … Will I be hurting the value of the car? Is it “sacrilege” to do this?
I may find other things too, like using modern materials for body rubber, bushings, etc.
I guess it’s the age old question of whether to go strictly authentic concourse, or allow a little freedom (tastefully), without diminishing the value.
Anything that is not reversible: if you put in a electronic ignition, or you update to a modern alternator, or you changed to some kind of different air filter system – – though I would not recommend it on any stock E type – – those are the things that will not knock down value. Whatever you do to the car, keep all the original bits.
I have a Ser 1.5 (1968) with considerable mods, including closed headlights and toggles. Ser 1.5 cars in stock form don’t appear to receive much love from purchasers, at times they seem to be low man on the hierarchy. Don’t know why - they are Ser I cars in effect and are very easily converted back. So IMO the conversion you speak of will only increase it’s saleability and value.
PS if the lens color bothers you can buy earlier lenses.
For now I think the lenses are okay, But I might change the amber to clear, just to be consistent. (Or change the back ones to the UK color scheme?)
And yes, I agree, don’t do anything that can’t be put back. I guess the one thing would be the paint color. I mean I’m not trying to build a 100-point concourse perfect car. I just don’t want to do anything stupid to wear the Jaguar community will go … “Bleghh” 
I have several modifications to my Series 1.5 OTS and all are reversible except the covered headlights. Electronic ignition (EDIS), upgraded brakes (Wilwood in the front with the larger front Dunlop calipers on the rear), 3.07 ring and pinion, as well as several more. I say do what makes you happy unless you are doing this to make $$. Even Poiple (purple) Jags have been seen around here.
The color change to BRG could decrease value depending on the job done. Original paint, even if it isn’t a preferred color, has an honesty that appeals to buyers. It isn’t hiding anything, and a buyer can better assess the integrity of the metal underneath. But a respray may help or hurt value depending on how it is done.
BRG doesn’t seem to be a highly sought after color, but it also doesn’t detract so that color change on its own is probably value neutral IF it is done correctly. That means stripping everything off the car like bumpers, lights, glass and rubber seals, pulling the engine and everything under the bonnet, and painting everything that was yellow. Also pulling the fuel tank and doing the boot.
If you just change the exterior but leave the firewall and forward frames, that could really affect valuation. You’d lose a lot of the potential buyers, with some not interested in a bastardized color change, some concerned about what an unthorough respray is hiding underneath, and another part concerned that if someone didn’t bother to do the color change properly there are could be other things through the car that also weren’t done properly.
If you’re going to change color, the only way to not hurt value is to do it right, and that’s going to cost a lot more than what you can get in return.
Like I did?
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The covered headlights will likely not adversely affect the value - so many folks have done it on US S1.25s and 1.5s because they like the look.
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The “full grill surround” had me confused for a moment - though you were talking about a chrome lip to the air intake that was added to the very late S2s and all S3s. However, from the photo I see you are refering to an Amco Bar. These were an aftermarket part that was popular in the US and you either love them or hate them - I fall into the latter category. You can remove it with 4 bolts, but you will be left with holes in the overiders - Replace the overiders if it gets to you, or just plug the holes with chrome plated plugs.
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Orange indicator lenses - easy and cheap replacement.
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Original paint - if it really is original paint, rather than a respray in the original colour it has some value which you will lose if you repaint it. As Jeff said, original paint means original metal underneath it, and undamaged metal at that. It would probably require running over it with a paint thickness gauge to be sure though.
You’re right … I’m sure I couldn’t pay myself more than $5 an hour for my labor. Not a profit making venture!
I like the idea. I’ve always done that with my Mustangs … a few performance upgrades. Nothing radical…
Good points.
This is going to be a complete tear down to bare metal. Any paint job will be documented with photographs and the whole process starting with the DP90 epoxy primer.
Unless you have a stash somewhere the DP90 is NLA. You’ll be lucky to find DP90LF…
BTW, where are you located?
I have an unused, brand new quart… 
Your bonnet is interesting. Ser 1.5 cars had welded seams between the headlight bucket and the bumper, that were then filled in and painted over. Yours have the small chrome strip between the chrome ring for the light and the bumper. That must have been done by somebody that pulled the bonnet apart or else it’s a ser 1 replacement bonnet (Which doesn’t make the car less valuable.)
Interesting. Note that the sugar scoops are body color as per a S1.5 rather than silver as they would have been on a S1.
I’m near Seattle, WA.
Oh, I didn’t know about DP90 being discontinued. I did my last car about 4 years ago, and was able to get it then. I sure I can find out the nearest equivalent.
Thanks for your reply!
Check the can of DP epoxy primer you have. It probably is DP-LF, since the older DP was discontinued over 10 years ago.
You may be in for a shock when you see the difference in price from 4 years ago. Wesco, the main autobody products dealer chain in the Seattle region, has told me that PPG doesn’t want to sell to the aftermarket and resellers anymore and is focusing on sales direct-to-bodyshops.
As a result, many of PPG’s products are now only available in gallon minimum quantities and if they do still sell quarts or pints, really expensive per unit of product.
Dave
I’ll add my two cents.
Mine is a July, 1968 production Series 1½ or, as Jaguar Cars terms it, an “Open Headlight Variant Series One” E-type OTS. I bought it in 1982. It was originally BRG. I resprayed it black, kept it that way for 32 years then did a bare metal respray back to BRG as part of a total, rotisserie restoration. It’s a beautiful colour on an E-type ime and quite popular. This is a Canadian delivery car. The engine is a period correct, short stud replacement from a very early ‘69 E-type that had Stromberg carbs, though the car originally had the SU setup according to two previous owners. As a Canadian car it also lacks the driver’s side Tex door mirror that was part of the 1968 US Federal safety mandates though everything else is the same as the US cars…
In addition to going back to the triple SUs I’ve done several mods
- replaced breakaway windshield mount with rod mount rearview mirror
- resprayed the optional hardtop from black to body colour
- replaced Lucas 22D distributor with Pertronix
- replaced earless spinners with eared spinners
- replaced 5” chrome wire wheels with 6”
- replaced rocker switch drop down panel with toggles and removed the radio console pad
- stainless steel exhaust
With the exception of the exhaust and wheels I’ve retained the original parts should whomever my kids sell the car to wish to reverse the retrofits. I’m also in the process of retrofitting the bonnet to covered headlights. According to renowned E-type bodyman Chuck Hadley (Monocoque Metalworks) Series 1¼ and 1½ bonnets are Series 1 bonnets whose flanges were cut out at the factory. So, even this mod is reversible without repaint using the retained original parts, by overlaying a template of the cutout.
I’m unconcerned how all this affect value, though I expect it’s enhanced, purist perspectives aside. When my car took first place in the ‘61-‘68 E-type category at the Bronte Park British Car Day - biggest in North America - a couple of irate E-type owners objected to my retrofits, saying theirs’ were real Series 1s. I could only hold my winner’s plaque and shrug and smile. I wonder if they’ll be there this year when I show up with newly retrofitted glass covered headlights. Oh, I hope so…
Original colour, much like matching numbers, is important to some, unimportant to others, but there is an associated premium in the minds of the affected beholders. My XK120 is a matching numbers car, but I could not abide its original colour combination so I changed it. If that reduces its value, oh well.
Best advice already given. It’s your car. Do what pleases you, not what the peanut gallery approves of.
Edit: thinking of other non-original mods in addition to the retrofits, the tach innards are an electronic conversion and I replaced the original vinyl ragtop with mohair, though it’s been rarely raised over the decades. There are a couple of other minor changes, like a switch that bypasses the otter to get the twin cooling fans going early in stop and go summer traffic, a fuel pump cutoff switch and separate hazard switch. All enhancements, ime.
Thank you, Nikolas. That’s generally my attitude as well. But I have only worked on the lesser British cars (Austin Healey, MG and Triumph), and Ford Mustangs (which are also unibody by the way). I didn’t want to do anything foolish.
I think your mods sound just about perfect.
Now, if I can just sort out all the various Triple SU manifold configurations, and find a set for less than $4,000 USD. -LOL-
PS - Sounds like you still have a bit of “feisty” left in you! Good for you!!
Yes, immediately noted that too. I’m at the stage of my covered headlight conversion deciding whether to shoot the sugar scoops body colour or silver. I rather like the body colour look but silver will reflect the light better. I’m also going to retain the lead filled seam below the chrome surrounds, so it won’t be a true Series 1 lookalike anyway.