Hi all. A quick self introduction here since this is my first topic post…
While I’ve lived most of my life in US, I’m a born and raised Brit (London) and self-admitted/proclaimed classic car geek. I’ve previously restored a '73 BMW 2002, a '65 Alfa Giulia Sprint GT, and now looking for my next project. I’ve had a fairly short list of models I’m interested in, and an E-Type FHC is right at the top of that list, it feels only right to have a British car at some point given my history. And they just look so darned good when done right.
I’m absolutely not looking for a “done” car, I very much want a restoration project. I don’t generally subscribe to the “buy the best you can afford” philosophy, as then I’d have nothing to do…While of course I love driving these old cars, the greatest pleasure and reward to me is in the process of restoring/building them. Other than paint and engine machining, I do everything else. Metal, mechanical, upholstery, etc…
So, with that as a baseline… This weekend I’m going to look at a Series I that was in a moderate fender bender back in the mid-late 70’s, and then parked. It hasn’t turned a wheel since. I’ve seen photos of it and see a bit of surface rust on a couple of panels, but mostly it just looks “rough.” Obviously I’ll give it a good going-over looking for rot, but would love to hear if there are E-type specific areas that I should really be sure to look at extra carefully. Any crucial parts NLA? Where to look for all the right chassis stampings, etc… Would appreciate any guidance from the experts. Thanks in advance.
Subframes under battery, air cleaner filter box , heater box , bottom picture frame member damage, substandard body repairs ,rusty wire wheels , number of front hood shims to align hood , boot floor , rear hatch sill’s
Careful what you wish for
Jim
Great, thanks for those additions. Subframes sound like a key one. Not overly concerned about sills and floors assuming repros are relatively available and not insanely expensive. Wise words on being careful what to wish for. I certainly uttered my fair share of curse words while working through the metal work on the Alfa, but it was worth it in the end.
All depends on what’s in your your universe . It takes time and money the two don’t usually go together. The family will be involved, Could be positive or negative
Sounds like you have experience
Jim
Welcome Tom. Paul’s shout out to Steve is a good one. Spend a few hours going through his long thread and see what can be lurking under a seemingly decent looking paint job. Then ask yourself if you’re really up for it.
As far as the body goes, at this point in time, almost all of it can be bought. I think some parts of the front and rear bulkhead would need to be fabricated. High quality frames are available but aren’t cheap, near 10k for the whole set. A full car restoration can be 1000 hours or more. A show quality paint job can easily cost 15k. A full engine rebuild can be 15-20k. A full rechrome might be 8-10k at this point. Price all this into your offer.
Another sad reality is that projects seem to go for more than they’re really worth, largely driven up by people who go into it doe eyed, and by shops paying for starter cars since the world is running out of unrestored ones to do up.
You will in all likelihood end up underwater on it, just on parts and services with little to nothing awarded for all your sweat. It’s just the way it is. Although they can fetch pretty high prices when perfect, those prices generally go to well known restoration shops, not hobbyists.
What everone else says. You will be upside down in this any way you look at it. So, considering two or three years of time, effort and money thrown into a non-running car with major issues, maybe you’re better off buying a running, non-rusted driver you can turn into a stunner–and still have fun with all the while.
And, yes, as @Wiggles says, take a rubberized refrigerator magnet with you to check for major rust in all those panels others have mentioned.
If I were you ( in USA looking for a project car) I’d contact Chuck Hadley at Monocoque Metalworks before committing to a specific project. A source of patch and full panels, Chuck is the only resource I’d use, probably the only one I’d need to get the shell straight and rust free.
Of course, then I’d still have the fun of paint (prep and colour), restoring all the components, fitting out and trimming.
Or paying someone else to do it, as my skills are limited to driving cleaning (polishing) and regular maintenance.
Apart from Rust, (did someone mention that?) you want as much of the original car to be there - its those little clips and fiddly chrome parts that don’t quite look the same when replaced with repro. You would be amazed with the amount of stuff that is missing and getting hold of original bits is getting more and more difficult.
As I see it, the question you need to ask is: If this car wasn’t repairable back when the parts were available and cheap, is it more so now that the car is in even worse condition and they are really expensive to restore? (Yes, I know they are worth more, but the sums may not work anyway).
Go look, still treasures out there! The numbers you’re looking for are all stamped on an aluminum plate, riveted to the top of the inner sill, on the righthand side, under the bonnet by the bonnet latch. VIN #, engine #, transmission # and body #. They should, obviously, coincide with everything on the car. VIN # stamped on top of the front frame (picture frame) on flat surface above the right front shock mount. Engine # is stamped on the block where the oil filter housing bolts up and on the backside of the head just ahead of the front sparkplug. The body #, I think, on this car, will be stamped on an aluminum plate, riveted to the left rear wheel arch under the upholstery. The body # is also written in chalk on the firewall behind the windshield washer bottle and on other areas of the car that can’t readily be seen but do disappear over the years on a lot of cars. The trans # can’t be seen without some disassembly of the car. Good luck!
+1 for Chuck . He is also a good resource for project cars, he comes by several of them often and will ,of course, assist with providing any panels you may need.
Tom,
So, you only want…the most beautiful car ever made…The JAGUAR E TYPE COUPE
BTW …this is not an opinion, The E coupe is voted time and time again number one…until…it is number one.
Lots of people with deep pockets are way ahead of you…
I too…only have those I restored myself…life has taught me…a magnet is NOT good enough…must see and do it myself.
Mitch
PS do go to monocaque metal works (Chuck) and if you can truely replace a complete floor (think flint stone) AND dedicate 3 years of your life…just to get a TUB right…then another 3 to finish…6 total (lets see 40 hours per week times 312 weeks). It is a great journey. OH, buy a running 2+2 NOW (TODAY) so you can enjoy an E for the next 6 years. After all, it maybe the only one you get to drive and enjoy your WHOLE life.
Yes, I will take that bet…hope I am wrong.
Thanks for the continued input and suggestions. Being new to the forum I would not have made the connection of @69Cat to that post later listed, so thanks for the helping hand there. Also the referral to Monocoque Metalworks, seems like he will be a valuable resource if I do end up with an E-Type. I’m going to see the car tomorrow and will walk in eyes wide open. Time will tell…
Hi, Also check to see if it is a matching numbers car. If you are doing a full nut and bolt restoration might as well be on a car that has better resell. I did find a car as you described, a 65 OTS hit in the nose and parked since 1987. With very little rust and only 11k miles, it has all those little clips, labels, and parts the only low mileage cars have. Transmission shifts lightly like a rifle bolt action.
Regards,
Allen
Thanks. Yes, will certainly get some photos. I have some that were taken back in 2014 but lighting wasn’t very good so hard to get good details. And to clarify the title of my original post, it’s not technically a “barn find”, more of a “garage find.” So, not exposed to the elements, just neglected. The odometer shows less than 30k miles on the clock. Seems unlikely that it would be 130k as it was less than 10 years old when parked, but you never know. Hopefully there is some sort of documentation that can help to shed light on its history.
the two don’t usually go together. The family will be involved, Could be positive or negative