to my knowledge, it can be purchased as “straight grain walnut veneer” and is less expensive than the burr walnut veneer.
I have re-veered and repaired many pieces on my 420G.
It is a hard skill to master
If you go the straight grain veneer on the mahogany backing piece, then the burr walnut just covers the top, not the bevelled side. This is a big extra step
it is IMPERATIVE that the veneer is sealed from behind before glueing, or the glue will bleed thru.
hold it up to the light to see holes
practice before doing the real thing
clingwarp is a good thing to wrap the glued item, as it wont stick
I formed my items prior to glue, by moisten & wrap.
Moisture levels must be just right, too much and it will shrink while drying
miraculous repairs can be made, rather the re-veering the whole item
I put some pics up recently in the Saloon forum