What would kill a new battery?

As previously noted, yesterday I replaced my rear brakes. Drove the car around the block and noticed drivers side window would not go up.

  • Removed door panel (disconnected door light)
  • Cleaned and lubed door tracks
  • Did the same clean and lube on passenger door.
  • Cycled windows in auxiliary mode
  • Removed key from ignition
  • Went to put door panels back on this morning after leaving off overnight
  • Went to start car…completely dead, faint door buzzer, no lights, nothing
  • Tried to jump with charger… nothing but clicking and pre-start dash lights
  • Battery is 6 weeks old and reading 3VDC on my multi-meter

Where do I start to diagnose? Bad battery? I am almost positive I turned the key off and removed it from the ignition which is my SOP. If I mistakenly left the key in the auxiliary mode over night, would that kill the battery to the point it would drain and not be able to jump with a fully charged charger?
Thanks in advance for any guidance.


Have a search through previous posts, there are many, many threads on diagnosing battery drain issues. After messing with the door lights and panels, I would start with the interior lighting.

Yes !! It did. but, all is probably not lost. Charge it long and slow… It will probably respond…

In the accessory mode, something was on!! Radio with volumn down low??

When you get the battery back up to full charge, check the “al off” draw. Meter in series with the - cable on the battery to ground… .045 MA or so…


It could be a coincidence. You said new battery. Remember NEW stands for Never Ever Worked.
Follow Cadjag’s recommendation, and go from there.If the draw is too high, pull fuses one at a time to locate the circuit that has the draw.

Battery drain is probably among the top ten most common subjects discussed on this list. Save yourself a lot of time and search the archives for “battery drain” and see what others have posted (including me), how they identified the source of the battery drain, and fixed them.


Thanks for your replies. I am in the process of a slow charge.

Well, chalk this one up to operator error. I must have left the key in auxiliary mode overnight when I was cleaning my door window tracks. I put a slow charge (24hr) on the battery and all is good.

On another note, I was amazed at how much better my door windows now operate after cleaning and lubricating the tracks and wheels. The passenger window was very slow and the drivers window got to the point where it would only close half way. Both windows now operate like new after a little maintenance. I would highly recommend performing this task to anyone with sticky or slow operating windows. It was an easy job that probably saved me from burning up a window motor.

Now on to the broken door handle. Thanks for all of your replies.


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One of my early lessons after my car returned to the road after an engine transplant circa 2005!!

Clean the window switches…Tools, two screw drivers, one Pozi and one flat. Two pans. one for the fasteners and one to work over on the bench to catch errant mini parts.

Oh, a means of cleaning contacts… .wisp of emery paper, rubber pencil eraser, etc.