exactly - the mod class is the target and I already have general acceptance from the chief judge. I have virtually no interest in originality (there won’t be much original on the car). Authenticity is also definitely secondary to drivability. Finally, I think that folk who equate authentic(ish) with original are deluding themselves. I’m not ever selling this car, would not pay one cent more for one that was merely authentic, and would not want one that was really original. In fact, I also have an early S1 OTS flat floor that I passed over for restoration because I don’t want ‘authentic’ and some person will eventually buy and restore it into an uncomfortable finicky drive or a trailer queen. See them in the picture below.
Finally, I’m not in a hurry other in anticipation of driving. The completion target has not changed since we started.
Fair enough Mike, I try to stay away from the usual local judged shows. If I do show up, I don’t put the vote number on the windshield. I’ve never been to an official Jag show, where knowledgeable people actually judge the show. Most of the local shows are ass kissing/get the vote thing. If all your buddies show up, YOU WIN! I do like to take a few of my son’s old sports trophies along and put them in front of the car at local cruise ins… When people see them they ask why I have these trophies with the car. I tell them they are participation trophies and I’m participating. Widely known here that I like to screw with people. If it’s not to personal, how about letting us know how much it costs to have a restoration done these days. Ballpark numbers would be great.
Thanks for your reply. The two local shows I’m likely to attend are sanctioned events with excellent judging. That said, the typical ‘old car nights’ are just as you describe… just for fun if you like that.
I’d add that serious ‘original-centric’ concours competition is a fascinating, challenging, and tough hobby.
Costs - I’m confident that I could have had a nice driver for something under $100KCAD and could turn my S1 into a competitive trailer queen for about 200. I’ll end up somewhere between these two for my present project where we have spend a LOT more than we had to on some premium additions, are rebuilding everything, and finishing everything that would be judged for fit and finish in the mod class to concours level.
There have been some ‘good news’ surprises. For example, the S&T interior is exceedingly good value (competitive with local alternatives) and as authentic as you could want.
Yeah, and touching everything numerous times for fitting , adjusting, and final installation. Six years on and off, by myself in my home garage. About half the money that you mention. Maybe the same if you add in the beer cost!
I am still working on a1970 S 2 OTS starting in 2003…There have been many stages to this as the car was totally dismantled by the PO.Moreover , because the tub was in such poor shape that he shipped it to Martin Robey in UK for a complete rebuild.I think that the only pieces not changed was the firewall ! When it came back it was devoid of ALL the exterior panels, which were shiped inside the spaces in the tub.There was a delightful letter from MR, suggesting the preferred approach to assembly. First mount the doors and then find the best overall positioning of ALL adjacent panels. Now I understood why the owner had decided to become a PO. So after the doors had been rebuilt, I spent a few years fitting the outer panels. This was long process involving many trial arrangements to get that correct optimum.Then I plug welded them into place. To cut a long story short, after 4 years in the body/paint shop the car is now in my workshop mechanicaly fully assembled .I am now installing outer lighting ( almost done ) and the bumpers( a real pain but in progress ).Lastly the interior is all new , and the 2 seats and centre consul all looking brand new.I need help with the rear bumpers, as I suspect the the interior captive nuts are missing. I will post on this soon to ask a few questions!!
John,
The rear bumper is held on with captive studs. There is a square piece of steel IIRC about 2 inches by inch and three-quarter‘s that has a bolt welded to it this is that riveted on the inside of the rear quarters.
Hi Steve, Well…thanks for cheering me up.I expect to be done Fall next year.I was waiting for the body shop for 3+ years. And I could drive my S 3 !!!,any time!
The kids will have long given up any hope of Dad getting the “weird old British sports car” done, and by then, being a bachelor again, you’ll have MORE productive evenings to drink bee–er, work on SlvrKty (your license plates).
Plus, there’s a good chance you’ll still be able to get in and out of it!
I am so glad that I did mine 20+ years ago! When I look at what parts cost today and the absolute crap used parts that I see being sold on Ebay I dont think I could afford to do one now.
