Any one tried heat resistant epoxy? Crack is not that big.
Advices are very welcome.
Thanks–
Alex
Lake Bluff, United States
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In reply to a message from AGIMELMAN sent Sun 7 Nov 2004:
Check past post…
Been tried, but the only real answer is to replace :-((
Derek
95 XJR–
The original message included these comments:
Any one tried heat resistant epoxy? Crack is not that big.
Advices are very welcome.
Thanks
Alex
Lake Bluff, United States
–
Del Boy
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In reply to a message from Del Boy sent Sun 7 Nov 2004:
Can you advice me how many gaskets do I need for replacement?–
Alex
Lake Bluff, United States
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In reply to a message from AGIMELMAN sent Mon 8 Nov 2004:
2, one for each manifold
Derek
Dorset U.K–
The original message included these comments:
Can you advice me how many gaskets do I need for replacement?
Alex
Lake Bluff, United States
–
Del Boy
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In reply to a message from AGIMELMAN sent Sun 7 Nov 2004:
Muffler cement might work temporarily but would have to be renewed
on a regular basis - say every oil change. If it can be injected in
the crack, it will probably last longer. I don’t know about the
expoxy.
If the cement lasts an appreciable length of time, you may want to
think of it as a routine maintenance item such as brakes, tires,
oil, filters, belts etc. At least the vanity cover will keep your
work hidden!
On the other hand, I can understand why a purist may faint at the
very suggestion of a temporary fix.–
The original message included these comments:
Any one tried heat resistant epoxy? Crack is not that big.
Advices are very welcome.
–
Dave J 1996 XJ6 (Canada)
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In reply to a message from Dave J 1996 XJ6 (Canada) sent Mon 8 Nov 2004:
I will probably try patch it first to see how it works. Crack
itself is tiny but it is going around. It is probably very hard to
find manifold for 95 model but buying used I can end up with cracks
again. The only worry that size of crack is tiny and not much room
to inject something inside.
I will report how it worked.
Thanks–
Alex
Lake Bluff, United States
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In reply to a message from AGIMELMAN sent Mon 8 Nov 2004:
To stop cracks spreading it is useful to drill a small hole to just
include the end of the crack (one each end). The round surface of
the hole will dissipate the stress and if there is no excessive
force or movement it will prevent the crack from spreading. Leaving
it undrilled lets the sharp end of the crack effectively
concentrate the stress so the next microscopic section of the
cystalline metal casting cracks, and the next, and the next etc, a
bit like cutting glass.
The small hole can be filled with weld or cement just like the
crack. The crack can be grooved into a vee shape to give more
surface for the cement to adhere, but the only permanent answer is
probably to replace the part. Since if you have to replace the part
you cannot lose anything by trying to fix it first, you may as well
give the fire cement a shot. I don’t think epoxies are really heat
stable enough without majot metal filler content, but mineral-based
cements might work reasonbly well. Let us know how you get on as
this is something that occurs to these cars from time to time by
the look of it.–
Peter Crespin 94 X300 Daimler / 66 2+2 ‘E’
Buxton, United Kingdom
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What an IDIOTIC design.
And to think that there is no recall for such a widespread problem.
Additionally irritating is that there is no aftermarket fix other than one
that is prohibitively expensive from one source.
XJRGUY
1995 XJR (has had 3 manifolds replaced so far)> From: Peter Crespin jag@thewritersbureau.com
Reply-To: x300@jag-lovers.org
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 23:32:33 +0100
To: x300@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [x300] Cracked exhaust - what to doIn reply to a message from AGIMELMAN sent Mon 8 Nov 2004:
To stop cracks spreading it is useful to drill a small hole to just
include the end of the crack (one each end). The round surface of
the hole will dissipate the stress and if there is no excessive
force or movement it will prevent the crack from spreading. Leaving
it undrilled lets the sharp end of the crack effectively
concentrate the stress so the next microscopic section of the
cystalline metal casting cracks, and the next, and the next etc, a
bit like cutting glass.The small hole can be filled with weld or cement just like the
crack. The crack can be grooved into a vee shape to give more
surface for the cement to adhere, but the only permanent answer is
probably to replace the part. Since if you have to replace the part
you cannot lose anything by trying to fix it first, you may as well
give the fire cement a shot. I don’t think epoxies are really heat
stable enough without majot metal filler content, but mineral-based
cements might work reasonbly well. Let us know how you get on as
this is something that occurs to these cars from time to time by
the look of it.Peter Crespin 94 X300 Daimler / 66 2+2 ‘E’
Buxton, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Tim sent Tue 9 Nov 2004:
Sounds bad Tim, but with that much trouble I’d wonder about some
sort of contributory cause in your case. I wonder if you have all
the exhaust mounts in place so that the weight of the system is not
hanging from the manifold excessively? I know my car had one mount
missing towards the rear and centre section. I also wonder if the
thing is being stressed some other way by being bolted up too
tight, or onto a surface which wasn’t perfectly flat and level with
all traces of old gasket etc removed? Probably none of these things
apply in your case but I know on old bikes you can cause trouble if
you over-tighten manifolds onto thick gaskets, or if you hang the
exhuast off the engine without full rigid support at all designed
mounting points. What did you do with the old manifolds? Once they
were off the car you could presumably have it TIG welded at your
leisure ready to be re-fitted, or sold as a repaired item to others
unhappy at the cost of the Jag part…–
Peter Crespin 94 X300 Daimler / 66 2+2 ‘E’
Buxton, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Peter Crespin sent Mon 8 Nov 2004:
Peter’s guide is a proper outline as to how to stop a crack in a
casting.
On one of my vehicles I did try this method using one of the
compounds advertized as an exhaust manifold crack filler. I am not
sure what it was made of but I think it had a glass base of some
sort. In any case, you prepared the crack as Peter mentioned, and
then applied heat via a propane torch which melted this powdery
stuff until the crack was filled and covered over.
I tried to use it but had no luck. I would do what apeared to be a
perfect job, and then without much stress, the crack would re-
open. I think the product may be OK for a hole, but on a radial
crack, like the ones we see on AJ16 manifolds, I think it will not
work. Also, the epoxy/steel based products, like JBWeld, are good
only to 450 degreesF.
I am in ana area with a lot of fabrication and metal work. I could
not find anyone who was willing to weld my manifolds either. I was
always advises that the results would be iffy at best.–
The original message included these comments:
To stop cracks spreading it is useful to drill a small hole to just
include the end of the crack (one each end). The round surface of
the hole will dissipate the stress and if there is no excessive
–
uncle
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In reply to a message from uncle sent Tue 9 Nov 2004:
Do you think that exhaust manifold will heat up more than 450F?–
The original message included these comments:
work. Also, the epoxy/steel based products, like JBWeld, are good
only to 450 degreesF.
–
Alex
Lake Bluff, United States
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Umm,
Yeah.
XJRGUY
1995 XJR> From: AGIMELMAN agimelman@hotmail.com
Reply-To: x300@jag-lovers.org
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2004 02:33:09 +0100
To: x300@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [x300] Cracked exhaust - what to doIn reply to a message from uncle sent Tue 9 Nov 2004:
Do you think that exhaust manifold will heat up more than 450F?
–
The original message included these comments:work. Also, the epoxy/steel based products, like JBWeld, are good
only to 450 degreesF.–
Alex
Lake Bluff, United States
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I think they can get to almost double that under extreme conditions.
“Ideally, the exhaust manifold should be capable of withstanding continuous
gas temperatures as high as 980�C with occasional peaks of 1020�C.”
Roger Los
] Do you think that exhaust manifold will heat up more than 450F?
In reply to a message from AGIMELMAN sent Wed 10 Nov 2004:
I think it will. I talked with the people at JB Weld about this,
and right off the bat told me it would not work on exhaust
manifolds. They told me about the 450 degree maximum.–
The original message included these comments:
Do you think that exhaust manifold will heat up more than 450F?
–
uncle
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In reply to a message from uncle sent Wed 10 Nov 2004:
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/articles/Coating_Exhaust_Manifolds_A
rticle.htm
Look at that. They offer coating of manifold. I also heard of paint
for exhaust. It probably should take high temps.–
Alex
Lake Bluff, United States
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In reply to a message from AGIMELMAN sent Wed 10 Nov 2004:
That is diffrent. There are a lot of high temp paints. I know the
stuff I used to re-do my cam cover (Duplicolor) was available if
500 and 1200 degree grades.–
uncle
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In reply to a message from uncle sent Wed 10 Nov 2004:
Here is another link.
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/ca_metallic.htm
Check this out–
Alex
Lake Bluff, United States
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In reply to a message from AGIMELMAN sent Wed 10 Nov 2004:
Hi Alex:
That looks like a good product. Probably quite effective in some
applications. Certainly worth a try I suppose.
As I said previously, the problem I see with cracked exhaust
manifolds is most of what we see are radial, not linear cracks.
Because of this, you need more than a surface patch. You need
something that will give strength to the repair. Perhaps, there
would be some way to add structural strength to a broken manifold,
this type of product would work to make it leak free. When I used
a competitive product to repair a manifold on a 351 Ford engine, I
dilled the ends of the crack, grooved the crack, and applied the
product according to instructions. The Repair was visually
excellent. It just did not have adequate strength, and it
subsequently cracked again.–
uncle
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In reply to a message from uncle sent Wed 10 Nov 2004:
Here is update.
I called those guys and spoke to the tech person.
He told me that their product will stand the heat up to 2000F but
cannot take moisture. I came to the conclusion that it will not
work for us. Price for that product was $65 for 1 gallon. They
don’t have anything less so it is probably doesn’t make sense to
waste 65 for nothing.
The best solution probably will be to buy used exhaust and cover it
with special paint that can preserve it from extra heat and rust.
Sorry about that news. I was hopping to bring for all of us cheap
solution.–
Alex
Lake Bluff, United States
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