In reply to a message from 1happycamper sent Tue 29 Nov 2011:
Most often it is necessary to use two tubing wrenches so there is
no strain on the tubes. They are like a box wrench but with a
section of the box removed, so it can be slipped over the tube then
slid onto the hex fitting. Using two of them there is no strain
put on the tube.
Yes all of those fittings are brazed to the rail. And it’s a good
idea to put a little anti-seize on the threads. Of the fittings
when you reassemble it. The threads don’t do any sealing so
there is no chance that the anti-seize will contaminate the fuel.
They are easy to repair. While it’s off add a ‘‘T’’ fitting the
tube that feeds the regulator so that a Schrader valve can be
easily installed. It will make checking fuel pressure very easy.
But don’t bring the pressure gauge into the cabin. I temporarily
tie mine to the wiper blade so I can see it while I drive.
After removing the rail and all of its hoses, Flush it with water
to eliminate any chance of a small fire. Then very carefully clean
the area you wish to repair down to bare metal. It must be shiny
clean. Any contamination will guarantee a leak. An acetylene
torch will provide enough heat to re-braze it or silver solder it.
Either will work fine. The coated brazing rod you can get at most
hardware stores will be the easiest to use. Even a MAP Gas torch
will possibly provide enough heat. But that’s a guess.
A very risky solution would be to clean the leaking area to bare
shiny metal. Be sure it is completely dry. Then use some JB Weld
to block the leak, as long as you remember that there is fuel under
close to 50PSI of pressure that you are trusting to a little
epoxy. But that stuff has worked for me many times when common
sense said that it wouldn’t. It’s only problem is that it takes
forever to cure and it is very runny. Unless you build a dam with
some clay, it will run off the tubes before it even starts to cure.
I was able to pick up some epoxy that is the same stuff Boeing uses
to glue their 787 Dreamliner to gather. It is incredible stuff but
it costs $30 for two tubes the size of the small JB Weld tubes that
I personally like the Idea of brazing the leak. But even that is
most likely fixing a tear in the tube and that sort of repair is
always problematic. You will need to be the judge of how risky the
repair will be.
I once had a fuel injection hose leaking, spraying a mist of fuel
into the engine compartment. Somehow it never caught fire and I
figured that I had missed that bullet, but I would never ever temp
the dark side again, at least not if I could help it.
Be sure to use two wrenches when reassembling and preferably hose
or tubing wrenches.–
The original message included these comments:
I was afraid of this happening…see my previous post
regarding looking for a solution to my ‘‘no start’’ 1995 XJ6 I
tried to check the fuel flow. I was unsuccessful in
loosening the nut on the fuel rail -the one near the fire
wall.The result si that now I have a car that does start,
the radio works - but with a HUGE gasoline leak!!!
SpeedyPAL 1995 XJR
Milford / OH, United States
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