Replacing Oil Cooler Hoses on a V12 X300.
While driving home a couple of days ago I noticed a large cloud of
blue smoke attached to the rear of my car, a quick glance at the
oil pressure guage reading zero confirmed I had a problem. I
quickly pulled over to the side of the road and shut the car down.
Smoke was pouring out from under the bonnet/hood and wheel wells. I
cautiously opened the bonnet/hood and there was oil everywhere. The
feed line for the oil cooler had split and gushed oil all over the
place. Lucky these cars hold so much oil and lucky the oil cooler
feed is a bypass flow so as a result the engine was still supplied
with pressure until the very last drop, just before I shut it down.
What follows is the procedure I used to change the oil pipe.
- The LHS exhaust downpipe has to be removed for access to
the oil lines. Undo the clamps between both left and right
downpipes and the centre pipes. The centre section needs to be
moved rearwards. - Remove the LHS steering rack heat shield. Note: In a LHD
car you will probably have to remove the steering rack to be able
to get the exhaust downpipe out. - Remove the LHS aircleaner box and duct for access to the
front exhaust manifold nut. - Undo the four nuts holding the LHS downpipe to the
manifold. I could access the three rearmost nuts from underneath
with a socket extension and uni joint. The front nut I accessed
form above with a crows foot wrench. - Loosen the exhaust joints and slide the rear exhaust
section rearwards. I couldn�t remove the oxy sensor so I unplugged
it and removed the downpipe with it in place. It would be easier to
remove the downpipe with the oxy sensor out but I couldn�t budge it. - Undo the nut holding the oil line securing plate to the
oil filter body and remove the plate. - Just to the rear of the airpump is a large oil line
securing bolt on the side of the block, remove it. - The oil line connections to the oil cooler are
the �quick� release type but you�ll need a special tool to retract
the holding spring in the fitting. I used a piece of plastic
electrical conduit with a split in the side. Wrap it around the oil
pipe and slide it into the fitting and it should release easily. - There is a self tapping screw, which is almost impossible
to see because it is between the engine mount and the block,
securing the two oil lines together. This needs to be removed to
separate the two oil lines. - The oil lines can now be removed from the car.
- For easier and better access I also removed the front
undertray and the LHS front wheel arch liner. - Replacement is the reverse so they say. Hmmm!
Some pix here http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1200134112
Jaguar wanted around $OZ360.00 for a replacement hose and said it
would take two weeks to arrive so I took the offending hose to the
local hydraulic workshop and one of the guys there replaced the
burst hose with some hi-temp hi-pressure hose in about
10 minutes and charged me the princely sum of $OZ28.00 for his
troubles. The best thing is the new hose is blue and matches the
car. ;^))
Regards,
Jeff Watson.
Sydney, Oz.
1995 V12 X300–
Jeff Watson
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–