[xj] 1971 Daimler XJ6 Series 1 restoration

XJ
41

teddykan wrote:

I discovered that the AED (?), or the start-up
carb (it has the little pin that sticks out), was misbehaving.

I would have thought that once warmed up this extra carb would be
deactivated. Alas it wasn�t. Even when warm it was on and made the
engine idle at 2500rpm and run rich (loads of grey smoke). When I
disconnected the lead to this extra carb the idle resumed normal
(although it hunted at 500-700rpm). When I reconnect the lead it
would stay low, but as soon as I blip the throttle the engine would
rev up and stay high at 2500rpm. What is going on and how do I fix
this? (I thought about making a manual switch to intervene)

The ‘pin’ sticking up implies that it is an aux starting carb, Richard…

In which case it is thermostatically controlled and in your case the
device arguably works as intended - it’s the thermostat switch that has
failed. In which case the device doesn’t ‘know’ that the engine is hot…

If this is the aux starting carb it works by opening an air passage and
an ajustable jet, the ‘rod’ thing, functions just like the jet on a
carb. As air is allowed in it passes the jet and drags in fuel and the
extra air increases idle - and all is shut off by the air passage
closing as power is cut by the thermoswitch…

That it cuts out when disconnected is as it should be - that it doesn’t
immediately raise idle when reconnected is a flaw, if the fault is as
suspected. But that is probaly something binding - it’s a primitive
device, and quite reliable. Adjusting it is part of the carb ajustments

  • leave it disconnected while you are working on more importsant
    things…:slight_smile:

There continued to be loads of grey smoke pouring out of the engine
breather I suspect the no 4 piston rings were not freed up, or are
broken beyond repair. I�ve resigned to having to take the head off
and have ordered a head gasket (a gasket set costs some �74 but
just the head gasket some �40!). Also got the sump gasket and seals
as I may have to pop the no.4 piston out to get at the rings, or
whatever. Not even sure what size pistons they are (standard,
+0.020in or +0.030in?). Will have to see.

That’s the spirit, Richard - but I would still run a compression test
and note down the results, wet and dry. Even if it is just informative
you may need it to clarify some point when the head is off - you may
regret not having done it…

And honestly; doing a descaling operation with tough chemicals without
reading the fine print is rather rash. These are not exactly candy - and
doesn’t restrict their effects to the scale only…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

// please trim quoted text to context only

42

In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Tue 2 Oct 2007:

What you describe here is normal and documented. The starting
carb’s magnetic solenoid lifts a metal disk to open an air passage
into the manifold. It can do so before the engine is started, but
cannot lift the disk against an opposing force created by manifold
vacuum. Once disconnected (manually or by the Otter switch) the
disk will not pull up again upon reconnecting the 12V if vacuum is
present. When one blips, the vacuum momentarily disappears and the
disk lifts.–
The original message included these comments:

teddykan wrote:

I discovered that the AED (?), or the start-up
carb (it has the little pin that sticks out), was misbehaving.
(although it hunted at 500-700rpm). When I reconnect the lead it
would stay low, but as soon as I blip the throttle the engine would
rev up and stay high at 2500rpm. What is going on and how do I fix
this? (I thought about making a manual switch to intervene)

–
Bob Wilkinson, 72 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

// please trim quoted text to context only

43

In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Tue 2 Oct 2007:

Thanks Frank, Robert

Yes the book says it’s the auxiliary starting carb, with the pin
that sticks out and the solenoid, driven by some thermostat-
controlled switch, that allows more air and fuel into the carb.

I wonder whether the thermo switch needs looking at (via voltmeter)
or the aux carb needs a strip down. The symptoms suggest that the
thermostat sender might be OK, as a cold start has high idle (about
1200rpm) and then settles at 500-700rpm when warm, but steps up to
2500rpm when provoked.

What I actually did was as follows, to give you more clues as to
what could have gone wrong:

1 I wanted high idle at about 2000rpm to warm the engine up
quickly.

2 I stuck a dead weight on the gas pedal to open the throttle at
the desired position

3 the throttle cable is a bit sticky but has been freed to allow
the throttle arm and shaft to return to the ‘shut’ position

4 when I wanted to resume the low 500rpm idle, I had to tinker
with the ‘pin’ and break the solenoid connection.

What I still don’t understand is, if a cold start meant idling
initially at about 1200rpm (with the aux carb activated and I can
expect this), how can this result in an even high idle
(unexpectedly, at 2500rpm) when it’s supposed to be automatically
deactivated?

I may return to this puzzle later on my commissioning works
bringing this Daimler back on the road.

I shall do another comopression test when Rod is there at the yard
next time, or try to see whether my compression tester can just be
screwed into the plug hole and I crank the thing over by myself.
The head off job is a big undertaking and I wish to be as well-
informed about it, and prepared, so I have a recovery plan! This is
where your wordly advices come in essential!

Regards–
teddykan
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

// please trim quoted text to context only

44

In reply to a message from teddykan sent Tue 2 Oct 2007:

I’m still not sure I understand, but here are a couple of
thoughts. First, certainly check to see that the thermo (Otter)
switch is opening once the engine is warmed up. When working
properly, they do an excellent job of opening at the right
temperature. You should see ground at the switch contact when it’s
closed, and 12 V (fed through the solenoid) when open (with ign
on). Note that when the engine is warm, idle will be much faster
with the starting device engaged than when the engine is cold.
Second, you might have a common problem: sticky throttles. At
least some SU butterflies (HD8) should close completely at idle–
with fuel/air supplied via a separate circuit. Any stickiness–or
failure of the linkage to close both carbs, causes fast idle. This
can be checked by manually forcing both throttles closed
individually–temporarily disconnecting the linkage between them if
necessary. If it seems to require a lot of force to close a
throttle (more than the spring supplies), the butterfly might be
misaligned on its shaft.–
The original message included these comments:

What I still don’t understand is, if a cold start meant idling
initially at about 1200rpm (with the aux carb activated and I can
expect this), how can this result in an even high idle
(unexpectedly, at 2500rpm) when it’s supposed to be automatically
deactivated?

–
Bob Wilkinson, 72 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

// please trim quoted text to context only

45

In reply to a message from Robert Wilkinson sent Tue 2 Oct 2007:

Just read the repair manual for this car about piston removal. It
says it is possible to remove the pistons with the engine in-situ.
However, the front subframe will need to be removed!

Removing the front subframe seems such a big task this looks to me
like using a sledgehammer to crack a nut job.

Maybe it’s a lot easier to take the engine out and work on that
separately?

For me where I only intend to sort out 1 cylinder, hopefully just
replacing the rings, are there real advantages of keeping the
engine in the car if the front subframe has to be removed? Or am I
better off taking the engine out in which case I can be afforded
better access and end up doing a bigger job on the engine than
originally planned?–
teddykan
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

// please trim quoted text to context only

46

teddykan wrote:

In reply to a message from Robert Wilkinson sent Tue 2 Oct 2007:

Just read the repair manual for this car about piston removal. It
says it is possible to remove the pistons with the engine in-situ.
However, the front subframe will need to be removed!

Removing the front subframe seems such a big task this looks to me
like using a sledgehammer to crack a nut job.

Maybe it’s a lot easier to take the engine out and work on that
separately?

For me where I only intend to sort out 1 cylinder, hopefully just
replacing the rings, are there real advantages of keeping the
engine in the car if the front subframe has to be removed? Or am I
better off taking the engine out in which case I can be afforded
better access and end up doing a bigger job on the engine than
originally planned?

That’s the nub of it, Richard…

By and large removing the engine is a bigger job than moving the
crossbeam - but removing the engine to only change one piston is really
using a sledgehammer to crack the nut. Of course we would advice
removing the engine and do the bigger job - no contest. Besides; the
bore may be so scored that on inspection an engine out is the only
alternative…

Doing only one piston with the engine in situ is a makeshift cheapie - I
only said it was possible…:-))

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

// please trim quoted text to context only

47

In reply to a message from teddykan sent Wed 3 Oct 2007:

Richard

Don’t believe everything you read in the ROM!

I managed to get the sump off a while ago with the engine and cross
member in situ (can’t remember why just now, it may have been a
timing chain job) so access to the big ends would have been
possible.

I did ask a local firm who advertise a rebore service with engine
in car and who come to your premises to do it, if they would
consider an XK engine job. They weren’t very keen and I ended up
taking it to them. The ring clearances on the pistons were ten
times the tolerances specified and pistons are not cheap!–
The original message included these comments:

For me where I only intend to sort out 1 cylinder, hopefully just
replacing the rings, are there real advantages of keeping the
engine in the car if the front subframe has to be removed? Or am I

–
al mclean '93 XJS 4.0 - '84 4.2 Daimler - '84 DD6
Telford, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

// please trim quoted text to context only

48

teddykan wrote:

I wonder whether the thermo switch needs looking at (via voltmeter)
or the aux carb needs a strip down. The symptoms suggest that the
thermostat sender might be OK, as a cold start has high idle (about
1200rpm) and then settles at 500-700rpm when warm, but steps up to
2500rpm when provoked.

Test of correct operation; disconnect wire between the switch and the
aux, Richard. With a cold engine the rpms should drop with a hot engine
it should not. Or measure switch to ground - cold it should be ‘make’,
and cold it should be break. Incidentally, if the rpms drop - cold -
with either the switch or the power feed to the aux disconnected; the
aux is functioninal…

1 I wanted high idle at about 2000rpm to warm the engine up
quickly.

2 I stuck a dead weight on the gas pedal to open the throttle at
the desired position

3 the throttle cable is a bit sticky but has been freed to allow
the throttle arm and shaft to return to the ‘shut’ position

4 when I wanted to resume the low 500rpm idle, I had to tinker
with the ‘pin’ and break the solenoid connection.

Do NOT tinker with the pin, Richard - this is actually adjusting the
amount of fuel through the aux. There is a specific procedure to adjust
this to get it right - and idle rpms are set by the throttle stop
screws. You risk confusing the set-up…:slight_smile:

What I still don’t understand is, if a cold start meant idling
initially at about 1200rpm (with the aux carb activated and I can
expect this), how can this result in an even high idle
(unexpectedly, at 2500rpm) when it’s supposed to be automatically
deactivated?

As Bob says; carefully check that the throttle moves freely and returns
to the throttle stop screws when the pedal is released. Part of this is
that the aux’s rpm inputs is always added to the throttle settings…

The aux also acts as a fast idle idle ‘cam’ by letting in extra air. But
the amount of air that can pass through it is restricted by the aux’s
construction. Usually to some 500 - 800 rpms - in principle it cannot
pass enough air to raise the rpms to some 2500…

Beyond this; with an engine that is actually running do not spend much
time on the carbs. Unless you plan to drive the thing tuning the carbs
is not a priority if there is engine work to be done. After that you
likely have to retune them anyway…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

// please trim quoted text to context only

49

In reply to a message from teddykan sent Wed 3 Oct 2007:

Richard:

There is one more '‘trick’ to try before dismantling the engine.
With the offending cylinder in it’s lowest position, flood the
cylinder with ATF. Let it sit. Most of it will leak into the sump.
Then crank the engine a few times with no spark. Then, start it up
and go for a drive or let it run at fsst idle for a bit. if it is s
tuck ring issue, this may jst clear it,

Carl–
Carl Hutchins
Walnut Creek, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

// please trim quoted text to context only

50

In reply to a message from cadjag sent Wed 3 Oct 2007:

Erm, one false move and that’s a bent rod or damaged crown isn’t it
Carl due to hydraulic lock? What if it doesn’t all leak out in time?–
66 2+2, 73 OTS, 76 DD6 Coup�, 85 XJS 5sp convert
Cambridge, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

// please trim quoted text to context only

51

In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Wed 3 Oct 2007:

Peter:

That’s why we are going to crank it wioth no spark plug to avoid a
hydraulic issue!! Maybe I didn’t caution enough about that.

Thanks for the ‘‘heads up’’!!

Carl

RICHARD WATCH OUT 11–
The original message included these comments:

Erm, one false move and that’s a bent rod or damaged crown isn’t it
Carl due to hydraulic lock? What if it doesn’t all leak out in time?

–
Carl Hutchins
Walnut Creek, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

// please trim quoted text to context only

52

In reply to a message from cadjag sent Thu 4 Oct 2007:

Right. When you said ‘no spark’ I thought you meant with only the
plug wire disconnected. If you meant ‘no spark plug’ that’s a
whole 'nuther kettle of ATF.–
The original message included these comments:

That’s why we are going to crank it wioth no spark plug to avoid a
hydraulic issue!! Maybe I didn’t caution enough about that.

–
66 2+2, 73 OTS, 76 DD6 Coup�, 85 XJS 5sp convert
Cambridge, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

// please trim quoted text to context only

53

In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Thu 4 Oct 2007:

I was a bit wary of cranking the engine over with all that ATF
fluid in the cylinder too! However, as I discovered, earlier on
when I had a flooding float chamber feeding too much fuel to the
cylinders, the starter stalled and wouldn’t crank her over. So
there’s an inherent fail-safe thing in here to prevent cranking
with a hydraulic lock.

I actually plan to use some Comma Engine Flush in the cylinder this
Sun. It claims on the bottle to work on piston rings (whereas the
other bottles of miracle cures didn’t!). Maybe I’m too gullible but
it’s worth a try. I’ll also use ATF too, later on. Last Sun I
poured some Wynn’s fuel injection cleaner (no product endorsement
here!). It sizzled in the hot cylinder but made no difference to
the piston blow-past.

Thanks–
teddykan
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

// please trim quoted text to context only

54

In reply to a message from teddykan sent Thu 4 Oct 2007:

Got chipping away at the glass fibre repairs to the rear tank
covers. Also found a thick gauge steel plate to the local repairs,
much too thick than necessary. I plan to hack off the GF and this
thick steel plate and remake the missing panels from thin filing
cabinet sheet steel.

http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1191828368--
teddykan
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

// please trim quoted text to context only

55

In reply to a message from teddykan sent Mon 8 Oct 2007:

Keep up the good work there are not many people restoring
old series 1 Daimlers. I have restored a 1973 Daimler XJ6.
Any idea how many are left in comparison to built. Most
series 1 XJ6 have been butchered with chev motors, cheap
mags and even cheaper seats. They are not a car that has had
strong resale value in comparison to running costs.It is a
real niche market car that only the hard core daimler
aficionado appreciates.I think you have to be mechanically
minded to attempt such a extensive restoration.–
8MDZ77
Neutral Bay, Australia
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

// please trim quoted text to context only

56

In reply to a message from EMU sent Wed 10 Oct 2007:

hi 8MDZ77
I don’t know how many Series 1’s survive. According to Paul
Clarkson (on this forum too) there aren’t many V12 Series 2’s
running about either.
The bodywork on this Series 1 seems relatively sound where it
matters - sills, jacking points. I’ve not looked at the chassis
rails but I expect to be able to contrive something to tackle any
problems I come across.
I feel very new to anything to do with engine work. I’ve tried to
strip a Daimler 2.5lt V8 engine (see my pics) and am trying to
renovate some pistons with stuck rings. I hope that the blow-by on
cylinder no 4 is nothing more than stuck rings. A re-bore would be
prohibitive and could result in me replacing the engine altogether
with something more modern (similar to a butchering job you refer
to). That will be a shame but as long as I stick to the Jaguar
marque I would feel not too ashamed of this mod.–
teddykan
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

// please trim quoted text to context only

57

In reply to a message from teddykan sent Wed 10 Oct 2007:

Richard:

You don’t need to be ashamed of anything that you chose to do with
your three cars. If we just look at the mast head of this forum and
see the cars on the race track we would stop and think a bit. then
just think of where at least two of your cars were bound for, if it
were not for your efforts. Either smash & bang racing (?) or the
breaker!!!

I have a car that was saved from the wrecker for economic reasons
as well as a great liking for the car.

The purist thing is great, and I truly admire those that spend
money and blood sweat and some tears to get their cars to that
level and keep them there. But, the truth is that that the cars are
just not pure Jaguar. Like almost any car, they do use parts from
various outside sources.

So, if that six is not economically salvageable, a later engine of
any kind that puts it on the road is right, particularly if it
suits you. And I am talking about a workmanlike as that is exactly
what you would do.

Carl–
The original message included these comments:

I feel very new to anything to do with engine work. I’ve tried to
strip a Daimler 2.5lt V8 engine (see my pics) and am trying to
renovate some pistons with stuck rings. I hope that the blow-by on
cylinder no 4 is nothing more than stuck rings. A re-bore would be
prohibitive and could result in me replacing the engine altogether
with something more modern (similar to a butchering job you refer
to). That will be a shame but as long as I stick to the Jaguar
marque I would feel not too ashamed of this mod.

–
Carl Hutchins
Walnut Creek, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

// please trim quoted text to context only

58

cadjag wrote:

So, if that six is not economically salvageable, a later engine of
any kind that puts it on the road is right,

No it is not, Carl - it’s more to life than a beautiful body…:slight_smile:

Can’t let it pass without telling him clearly that opinions differ,
greatly, on this…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

// please trim quoted text to context only

59

In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Thu 11 Oct 2007:

There could be some debate here. When I get to diagnose the problem
with the 2.8 engine, no 4 cylinder, I’ll share it with all of you
and we can reach a consensus on the best thing to do.

After all, I’ve received, and taken on board, so much of your
wordly advices it’s only expected that we continue this tradition.

I have been looking on eBay for some more modern Jaguar engines. An
easy one, a feasible replacement, is the 3.6 AJ6. I even toyed with
the idea of the modern 3.2 V8 (maybe not for this car, perhaps for
the 1966 Daimler 250 V8 if the engine on that is beyond help).
We’ll see folks.–
teddykan
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

// please trim quoted text to context only

60

teddykan wrote:

In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Thu 11 Oct 2007:

There could be some debate here. When I get to diagnose the problem
with the 2.8 engine, no 4 cylinder, I’ll share it with all of you
and we can reach a consensus on the best thing to do.

After all, I’ve received, and taken on board, so much of your
wordly advices it’s only expected that we continue this tradition.

I have been looking on eBay for some more modern Jaguar engines. An
easy one, a feasible replacement, is the 3.6 AJ6. I even toyed with
the idea of the modern 3.2 V8 (maybe not for this car, perhaps for
the 1966 Daimler 250 V8 if the engine on that is beyond help).
We’ll see folks.

That’s more like it, Richard…:slight_smile:

Apart form my love of Jaguar my view is somewhat coloured by frugality.
I was so used to, in more frugal days, to accept single parts
replacement, like a bust piston. Accepting that it was less than
perfect, but if the rest of the engine was OK it would run on
unperturbed with a ‘simple’ fix. In four banger days it was all simpler
than the 6 and even worse the 12, but these engines are pretty robust -
and I hate to see an otherwise good engine going to the knackers for the
lack of a nail…:slight_smile:

Of course, starting with the best of intentions once the patient is open
it’s to tempting to go on to major surgery - a great cost. It’s sort of
human - and without some experience it is difficult to assess what is
good enough, and leave best alone…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

// please trim quoted text to context only