You can always tell the time of year it is in the US with the abundance of AC
questions. I hate to ask another but I’m confused. I have purchased all the
replacement hardware for my air-conditioning on my 85 XJ6. Rebuilt Compressor
w/new clutch, all hoses, rec/drier, expansion valve etc. I am planning on
replacing all these component myself. I am converting to R134.
Note compressor was throwing lots of oil and finally I lost enough R-12 so that
the system finally failed three weeks ago.
Things I have done so far.
I have had the remaining R-12 professionally evacuated from the system so I
can safely remove components.
Purchased correct hardware as mentioned.
Things I will do
I plan on using PAG II High-viscosity oil in my compressor - about 7oz per
instruction - this seems straightforward.
I know to keep the plugs on the parts until the very last second before
hooking things up.
I know to use new o-rings where applicable.
I know to be careful with the expansion valve removal.
Things that confuse me (AC questions only)
It seems a lot of people are charging their own systems. What kind of vacuum
pump do you use to completely remove the air from the system? I saw someone
made a vacuum pump - I’m not that creative. BTW - you wouldn’t believe what
comes up in the search engines with the word vacuum pump. Ouch!!
What means are people using to flush the existing OIL from the condenser and
evaporator. Should I not worry about doing this and use Ester oil rather than
PAG II?
Just how much more oil does the system need for a hose and rec/drier
replacement? Or does the oil come from the compressor’s sump?
Can I just charge the system with the air in the system - no vacuum pump?
I’ve tried to learn form all the AC questions posted but I just keep coming up
short. Sorry for more questions. I am taking pictures and lots of notes so I
will post all these out to my web site upon completion. I am planning on
helping everyone with a thorough guide for Jag conversions. Please help me AC
experts, I know you are out there feeling cool and comfortable.
It seems a lot of people are charging their own systems. What kind of
vacuum
pump do you use to completely remove the air from the system? I saw
someone
made a vacuum pump - I’m not that creative. BTW - you wouldn’t believe
what
comes up in the search engines with the word vacuum pump. Ouch!!
Ian, I just did this and used my Mityvac and the low-side charge hose. It
took
some time and several hundred pumps but I got there. Also, I think that the
create a vacuum and hold thing is a test of seals. All you need do is make a
vacuum then put in the new stuff.
What means are people using to flush the existing OIL from the condenser
and
evaporator. Should I not worry about doing this and use Ester oil rather
than
PAG II?
There are products made for this purpose and are sold at the same autoparts
stores that sold the 134. I didn’t do it, went with ester.
Just how much more oil does the system need for a hose and rec/drier
replacement? Or does the oil come from the compressor’s sump?
I believe that the Castrol oil directions told me to pour a couple ounces
into the
drier and the REMAINDER into the compressor.
Can I just charge the system with the air in the system - no vacuum
pump?
If you’ve got a way to vacuum the system, then I’m certain its better. Most
shops
will also pull a vacuum for you then send you on your way. I have heard
of people filling the system then allowing the 134 to release back out as a
means of clearing the air. I’m sure that it is illegal so I wouldn’t suggest
that
anyone should do it that way.
It seems a lot of people are charging their own systems. What kind of
vacuum
pump do you use to completely remove the air from the system? I saw someone
made a vacuum pump - I’m not that creative. BTW - you wouldn’t believe what
comes up in the search engines with the word vacuum pump. Ouch!!
Harbor Freight Tools last catalog had a very reasonably-priced A/C vacuum
pump ($19.99 or $29.99 if I recall correctly). Only problem, it’s a
venturi-type, so you need a compressor (and not one of those
plug-in-to-the-cigarette-lighter tire pumps, either). I’m not too sure how
well a do-it-yourself job with a hand vacuum pump would work, never having
tried it.
= = = = = = = = = = = = =
Mark Moburg (@Mark_Moburg)
Seattle, Washington
Thanks to all who helped with my previous problem. In line fuse at Ranco
sensor was indeed the problem. Now to the new question…
AC evecuated and recharged with proper amounts of R-12…High and low
pressures correct and air blows Ice cold (45 degrees farenheit at idle!) So
far so good. However, while driving. AC cut in for a while and then cuts
out. After a while, it will kick back in. You can feel the compressor kick
in, amd feel a definite increase in cabin humidity when it kicks out. I have
confirmed that the power still goes into the interior thermostat, but none
out when the compressor kicks out. Is this normal? I know that the system is
designed to maintain a preset interior temp, and the although the cabin
never realy gets warm, it is not as comfortable any of my other vehicles
which will maintain cold air production as long as system set to max cool.
Kevin: this does not sound right. The compressor constantly cycles on and
off, and the air coming from the registers should be constantly cold. There
should be no periods during which you sense that the AC is “off”. I wonder
if you have a loose connection at that fuse? The cabin temperature is
maintained at a constant temperature by air blending, not by turning the
compressor off. recheck that fuse and the holder it is in.
Gregory----- Original Message -----
From: “Kevin Hutcheson” hutch58@earthlink.net
To: xj@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 4:20 PM
Subject: [xj] Another AC question
: far so good. However, while driving. AC cut in for a while and then cuts
: out. After a while, it will kick back in. You can feel the compressor kick
: in, amd feel a definite increase in cabin humidity when it kicks out. I
have
: confirmed that the power still goes into the interior thermostat, but none
: out when the compressor kicks out. Is this normal? I know that the system
is
: designed to maintain a preset interior temp, and the although the cabin
: never realy gets warm
Yes, I did, or should have. The compressor is “on” contantly in that it is
working all the time, regardless of the mode selected, winter and summer
(this is part of its nature as a “climate control system” rather than an
integrated heater/AC unit). But it cycles on and off, controlled by the
Ranco thermostat, otherwise the system would freeze up.
Gregory----- Original Message -----
From: “Frank Anderson” franksue@xtra.co.nz
To: “Dr Gregory Andrachuk” <@Dr_Gregory_Andrachuk>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: [xj] Another AC question
:
:
: Dr Gregory Andrachuk wrote:
:
: >Kevin: this does not sound right. The compressor constantly cycles on and
: >off, and the air coming from the registers should be constantly cold.
There
: >should be no periods during which you sense that the AC is “off”.
: >
:
: You told me that the compressor didn’t cycle on and off,
: Gregory…!?
:
:
