[xj] BW65 and 66

The recent thread about broken vanes on the Series II (and very early Series
III) BW65 torque converter may have some worried about their more common
Series III BW 66 transmission. They are essentially of the same design, but
numerous changes were made to the model 66 unit as improvements over the 65.
Some of these are:
the converter turbine hub which can accomodate a larger input shaft; the
inner race of the stator one-way clutch has an increased hardness; the
impellor side of the stator now has a Torrington race (bearing), and the
torque converter impeller blades have a rib formed in them to give added
strength
, and further six impeller blades are welded in two pieces to the
impeller shell for added strength
. There is increased lubrication of the
converter bushing, there are revisions to the pump drive gear bushing, a
larger diameter bushing on the stator support, a larger pump suction tube to
ensure that the pump never runs dry; improvements to the lubrication of the
rear clutch and front band; increased oil flow around the clutch plates;
increased oil flow in all areas of the transmission, an improved one-way
clutch on first gear, a deeper oil pan, etc. The changes are numerous,
although the basic design of the transmission is the same.
All in all, the BW66 is a considerable improvement over the 65. Regular
fluid changes do wonders for the longevity of the unit, and distances of
well over 100,000 miles (160,000 km) without major service are definitely
attainable in my own experience. A complete fluid flush and refill should be
a priority on acquiring an XJ). On the other hand, driving this luxury
touring car as though it were a Camaro will certainly accelerate the rate of
wear. Jaguars have nothing to prove.
Gregory===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

All in all, the BW66 is a considerable improvement over the 65.

Yes, IMHO the BW 65 is a bad choice for anything but a numbers matching
concours car.

Regular

fluid changes do wonders for the longevity of the unit, and distances of
well over 100,000 miles (160,000 km) without major service are definitely
attainable in my own experience.

With an emphasis on the regular fluid changes.

A complete fluid flush and refill should be

a priority on acquiring an XJ).

Absolutely!

On the other hand, driving this luxury

touring car as though it were a Camaro will certainly accelerate the rate
of
wear. Jaguars have nothing to prove.

If you have any inclination to want to use a trans hard oin one of these
cars, get a BW 12…they are virtually indestructible, are still somewhat
readily available, and do not require heavy modification to go into any
Series I, II, or III car.

Series I and early Series II cars used them from new. I had one in my '76
and loved it.

If you abuse a BW 65 or 66, it WILL break.

JebFrom: "Dr Gregory Andrachuk

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

Hi Jag people,

I would like to put this issue of BW65 vs. 66 to rest, and shed some light
on
the question of longevity of these units. First of all, the impressive list
of “improvements” for the model 66 I have personally found to be of no
consequence to the real issues with these boxes. For example, what good is a
larger input shaft size? Has anyone out there seen a broken model 65 input
shaft?? Bushing styles, larger oil holes, etc. have no real improvement,
but in my opinion are just a futile attempt by the manufacturer to bring
these up to snuff with other units. I’ve had plenty of experience with both
units (65-66) and they basically give the same service, that is, they
originally last about the same length of time, (well over 100K if not
tampered with from the factory) One that is properly rebuilt and adjusted
should too if the car is driven normally, and on the other hand, you will
risk crunching a planetary by snatching either of them into gear while the
wheels are in motion. After rebuilding over 20 of both types, the main
problem I’ve seen, is that the rebuilder, after spending hours packing
clutches, locating obsolete hard parts, carefully assembling the geartrain,
cleaning the valve body, then doesn’t pay attention to the most critical
part of the equation: The control cable (kickdown). Because it modulates
the line pressure instead of a vacuum unit, it’s adjustment and smoothness
of operation is essential to the avoidance of premature clutch failure. The
adjustment cannot be made with the gap at the crimp, but must be made with
a diagnostic gauge, period.
Another issue is the published specs. for the front band adjustment. It is
just too loose. It may have been fine when the unit was brand new, but
if this adjustment is done by the manual, you will quickly wear out a front
band. The linings of which are paper thin, so if not caught in time,there
goes your rear drum also. I have found that the hard parts in an original
unit are usually intact. The hard parts in somebody’s rebuilt one are
usually destroyed. What does this tell you?
People, both units share the selfsame weaknesses, The BW66 did not solve any
of the inherent problems of the 65. So don’t fool yourselves into
“upgrading” your series II and begin in search of a good used model 66
(there is no such thing, as I stated in a previous post). Instead, find
somebody who can rebuild your 65, install a new cable, make the correct
adjustments, ignore these posts about the 65 and drive stress free!

Greer Westover
Newnan, GA===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

Coincidentally, our club’s October tech session was at a transmission
rebuilding place. They also emphasize regular fluid changes at one year
intervals. No need to flush if it’s changed at that interval,

My own BW65 is still going fine at 65K miles, including occasional hard
usage. It’ll be rebuilt due to old seals starting to leak rather than
breakage. The tranny place suggests that a typical automatic needs going
through about every 15 years (on average) regardless of the strength of the
box itself due to seals. Since my own is now 25 years old, I’m starting to
save up. If I can get one, I’ll spring for the heavy-duty torque converter
since I’ve been known to rev it up at the start line before lifting my left
foot off the brake.

Details at: http://clubs.hemmings.com/seattlejagclub/trans.html

                                          -Steve A.

'67 E Type Coupe
'76 XJ6C
'91 XJ40-----------------------

Jeb wrote:

From: "Dr Gregory Andrachuk

All in all, the BW66 is a considerable improvement over the 65.

Yes, IMHO the BW 65 is a bad choice for anything but a numbers matching
concours car.

Regular

fluid changes do wonders for the longevity of the unit, and distances of
well over 100,000 miles (160,000 km) without major service are definitely
attainable in my own experience.

With an emphasis on the regular fluid changes.

A complete fluid flush and refill should be

a priority on acquiring an XJ).

Absolutely!

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

Greer: thanks for the clarification. I was not suggesting or even
contemplating that anyone would exchange a model 65 for a model 66. As I
said, they are essentially the same unit. But the 66 gives good service when
properly used and when properly serviced.
Gregory----- Original Message -----
From: “immjag” immjag@charter.net
To: xj@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 6:56 PM
Subject: [xj] BW65 and 66

: Hi Jag people,
:
: I would like to put this issue of BW65 vs. 66 to rest, and shed some light
: on
: the question of longevity of these units. First of all, the impressive
list
: of “improvements” for the model 66 I have personally found to be of no
: consequence to the real issues with these boxes. For example, what good is
a
: larger input shaft size? Has anyone out there seen a broken model 65 input
: shaft?? Bushing styles, larger oil holes, etc. have no real improvement,
: but in my opinion are just a futile attempt by the manufacturer to bring
: these up to snuff with other units. I’ve had plenty of experience with
both
: units (65-66) and they basically give the same service, that is, they
: originally last about the same length of time, (well over 100K if not
: tampered with from the factory) One that is properly rebuilt and
adjusted

: should too if the car is driven normally, and on the other hand, you will
: risk crunching a planetary by snatching either of them into gear while the
: wheels are in motion. After rebuilding over 20 of both types, the main
: problem I’ve seen, is that the rebuilder, after spending hours packing
: clutches, locating obsolete hard parts, carefully assembling the
geartrain,
: cleaning the valve body, then doesn’t pay attention to the most critical
: part of the equation: The control cable (kickdown). Because it
modulates
: the line pressure instead of a vacuum unit, it’s adjustment and smoothness
: of operation is essential to the avoidance of premature clutch failure.
The
: adjustment cannot be made with the gap at the crimp, but must be made
with
: a diagnostic gauge, period.
: Another issue is the published specs. for the front band adjustment. It is
: just too loose. It may have been fine when the unit was brand new, but
: if this adjustment is done by the manual, you will quickly wear out a
front
: band. The linings of which are paper thin, so if not caught in time,there
: goes your rear drum also. I have found that the hard parts in an original
: unit are usually intact. The hard parts in somebody’s rebuilt one are
: usually destroyed. What does this tell you?
: People, both units share the selfsame weaknesses, The BW66 did not solve
any
: of the inherent problems of the 65. So don’t fool yourselves into
: “upgrading” your series II and begin in search of a good used model 66
: (there is no such thing, as I stated in a previous post). Instead, find
: somebody who can rebuild your 65, install a new cable, make the correct
: adjustments, ignore these posts about the 65 and drive stress free!
:
: Greer Westover
: Newnan, GA
:
:
:
: ===================================================
: The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
: FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
: Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html
:
: To remove yourself from this list, go to
http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.
:

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

I would like to put this issue of BW65 vs. 66 to rest, and shed some light
on
the question of longevity of these units.

Not likely…these units are all over the page.

First of all, the impressive list

of “improvements” for the model 66 I have personally found to be of no
consequence to the real issues with these boxes.

I disagree with that. The 66 is improved.

For example, what good is a

larger input shaft size? Has anyone out there seen a broken model 65 input
shaft??

Yep! Broke mine in my '76.

Bushing styles, larger oil holes, etc. have no real improvement,

but in my opinion are just a futile attempt by the manufacturer to bring
these up to snuff with other units.

Oh please! Each one of these “non-improvements” IS the way to make the box
better.

I’ve had plenty of experience with both

units (65-66) and they basically give the same service, that is, they
originally last about the same length of time, (well over 100K if not
tampered with from the factory)

This is true under ideal circumstances. The problem is that first, they
don’t see the maintenance that they should and second, when they do fail,
they seem to fail catastrophically instead of just wearing out.

One that is properly rebuilt and adjusted

should too if the car is driven normally, and on the other hand, you will
risk crunching a planetary by snatching either of them into gear while the
wheels are in motion. After rebuilding over 20 of both types, the main
problem I’ve seen, is that the rebuilder, after spending hours packing
clutches, locating obsolete hard parts, carefully assembling the
geartrain,
cleaning the valve body, then doesn’t pay attention to the most critical
part of the equation: The control cable (kickdown).

How can you make such a blanket statement about rebuilders like that? First
you say there’s no relevant improvements, then you say that the people going
through the grief of rebuilding a trans that’s hard to get parts for it
aren’t going to adjust the cable properly? That’s kind of ridiculous as most
of the people that will even tangle with one of these boxes are generally
experienced and have the skills to do this adjustment properly. BTW, it’s
main function is NOT as a “kickdown” cable.

Because it modulates

the line pressure instead of a vacuum unit, it’s adjustment and smoothness
of operation is essential to the avoidance of premature clutch failure.
The
adjustment cannot be made with the gap at the crimp, but must be made
with
a diagnostic gauge, period.

Hey, these posts go into the archives so you have to be very careful about
making conclusive statements like this. There are a few people out there who
have never used a pressure gauge to set the cable adjustment. With proper
experience, you acquire the “feel” for the cable adjustment.

Another issue is the published specs. for the front band adjustment. It is
just too loose. It may have been fine when the unit was brand new, but
if this adjustment is done by the manual, you will quickly wear out a
front
band.

Really? How stupid of Jaguar to put the wrong info in the ROM. Here again is
another case of feel. Band adjustment is critical and should be done by
someone familiar with the technique.

The linings of which are paper thin, so if not caught in time,there

goes your rear drum also. I have found that the hard parts in an original
unit are usually intact.

Oh please! I just wish that the majority of failures that I have seen left
the drums unscored.

The hard parts in somebody’s rebuilt one are

usually destroyed. What does this tell you?

What do you mean by this? That the drums are scored and reassembled that
way? Or that they suffer premature failure due to incorrect band adjustment?
You must have really inept tranny shops in your area or you consider places
like Aamco or Cottman as rebuilders. They are NOT!

People, both units share the selfsame weaknesses, The BW66 did not solve
any
of the inherent problems of the 65.

Did too, did too!

So don’t fool yourselves into

“upgrading” your series II and begin in search of a good used model 66
(there is no such thing, as I stated in a previous post).

There is no future in replacing any of these boxes with used. If you buy a
good used box, have it gone across by someone who is familiar with these
transmissions.

Instead, find

somebody who can rebuild your 65, install a new cable, make the correct
adjustments, ignore these posts about the 65 and drive stress free!

The 65 is NOT a great box. They DID make improvements whether you see it
that way or not. There are also less of those transmissions around and they
are getting extremely difficult to get parts to repair them. Why you don’t
see this is beyond me. There is no reason not to update to a 66 if you have
one available. It will probably be cheaper in the long run to get a used 66
that is not broken and go across the clutches, bands and seals that it would
be to repair a broken 65.

And I have never had to replace a cable yet.

Remember that there are people that do not have your technical expertise
when you make these posts and that they will make decisions based on that.
It’s a good idea to be very sure of what you speak before you say something
like “I’m going to clear this up.”.

For one thing, there will always be some knucklehead like me who will argue
with you…and I do have some experience with all five of the “modern” BW
boxes that were used since the DG 250.

Cheers,

JebFrom: “immjag”

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

From J&L Autoworks:

How can you make such a blanket statement about rebuilders like that? First
you say there’s no relevant improvements, then you say that the people
going
through the grief of rebuilding a trans that’s hard to get parts for it
aren’t going to adjust the cable properly? That’s kind of ridiculous as
most
of the people that will even tangle with one of these boxes are generally
experienced and have the skills to do this adjustment properly.

In your words, Oh Please!
This is a DIY forum, with people attempting every imaginable repair.
The fact is that there ARE people who are not familiar with these boxes’
idiosyncrasies attempting these. How about the guy who’s going to try his
because he’s done a 727?

Hey, these posts go into the archives so you have to be very careful about
making conclusive statements like this. There are a few people out there
who
have never used a pressure gauge to set the cable adjustment. With proper
experience, you acquire the “feel” for the cable adjustment.

Yes, I’m sure there are those people, but with proper experience you will
understand the need of using a guage! Any “feel” can be turned in to a
specification. This is exactly the cloudiness and uncertainty that I wish to
dispel with my posts!

You must have really inept tranny shops in your area or you consider places
like Aamco or Cottman as rebuilders. They are NOT!

Now there’s a blanket statement!

It will probably be cheaper in the long run to get a used 66
that is not broken and go across the clutches, bands and seals that it
would
be to repair a broken 65.

This might be true, depending on who you are purchasing from. You may
be able to get only the parts you need also pretty cheap.
Here we go again… People, if you need hard parts for your 65, chances
are you can use the more plentiful 66 parts. You will quickly be able to
identify which parts are interchangeable. There’s no secret here!

And I have never had to replace a cable yet.

Scary isn’t it.

Remember that there are people that do not have your technical expertise
when you make these posts and that they will make decisions based on that.
It’s a good idea to be very sure of what you speak before you say something
like “I’m going to clear this up.”.

I understand this, and I think that people making decisions to throw away
a rebuildable 65 for a 66 ought to understand some of my points. Also, Do it
Yourselfers shouldn’t simply give up rebuilding either of these (65-66)
because someone has inserted a “feel” factor that only “experienced” people
are supposed to posess. Baloney!

I know that I may come across as matter of factly, but that is mostly to
bring out you guys. I enjoy a good debate!!

Thanks.
GW===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

In your words, Oh Please!
This is a DIY forum, with people attempting every imaginable repair.
The fact is that there ARE people who are not familiar with these boxes’
idiosyncrasies attempting these. How about the guy who’s going to try his
because he’s done a 727?

Well, that’s actually part of my point. These boxes are specific in their
needs and should be carefully checked over.

Yes, I’m sure there are those people, but with proper experience you will
understand the need of using a guage! Any “feel” can be turned in to a
specification. This is exactly the cloudiness and uncertainty that I wish
to
dispel with my posts!

Well, I haven’t had any problems with feel over the years as I have worked
with automatics in general and these boxes to some degree specifically. You
have to admit that you do acquire certain skills and techniques over the
years.

I feel that you need a good working knowledge of how the trans operates in
situ to be able to gauge the band and cable adjustment.

I’m not saying that any competent mechanic can’t do it but I want to stress
the importance of having it done correctly as you do. Sometimes, like what
you said about band adjustment, the manual gets you close but you tailor the
cable adjustment over a series of road tests.

Now there’s a blanket statement!

Couldn’t resist! 8>) All the independents around here are very good and
the chain shops are really bad.

This might be true, depending on who you are purchasing from. You may
be able to get only the parts you need also pretty cheap.

I have always bled profusely around the wallet when it comes to the
proprietary hard parts for the 65/66.

Here we go again… People, if you need hard parts for your 65, chances
are you can use the more plentiful 66 parts. You will quickly be able to
identify which parts are interchangeable. There’s no secret here!

The problem is that the 65 parts are somewhat harder to get than the 66
parts. At least there are a fair amount of the 66s still in service.

And I have never had to replace a cable yet.

Scary isn’t it.

Yeah, really! I’ve been lucky, I suppose, but no trouble so far.

I understand this, and I think that people making decisions to throw away
a rebuildable 65 for a 66 ought to understand some of my points.

I agree…but in most failures that I see, if the hard parts are junque,
it pays to get a used 66 and reseal it and put in new cllutches. If the 65
is really beat, that’s a very viable alternative.

Also, Do it

Yourselfers shouldn’t simply give up rebuilding either of these (65-66)
because someone has inserted a “feel” factor that only “experienced”
people
are supposed to posess. Baloney!

You have to remember that what you and I take for granted as simple and
straightforward sometimes can be daunting for a first timer. I don’t feel
that these transmissions are a good one to learn with.

I’m not saying that you have to have a lot of trans experience, but it’s a
big plus.

I know that I may come across as matter of factly, but that is mostly to
bring out you guys. I enjoy a good debate!!

Hey, no problem from where I stand…I love to arg…debate! 8>)

I’m thinking that maybe the both of us ought to get together and put
together a list of things in increasing levels of difficulty to help folks
deal with these transmissions. That way the newbie can go from a recent
purchase and how to take care of the trans to an outline of how to get it
fixed and intelligent questions to ask when seeking out a shop.

This thread cycles around fairly often so maybe this is an idea with some
merit.

I think that we are both pretty much on the same page as far as being
insistent on careful work with these boxes, but our approaches may differ.

Is it safe to say that you do feel that this may be a slightly inadequate
trans for a 4000 lb car with every reasonable expectation of a 250K
lifespan?

I know I sure do. I consider a trans overhaul at 100K a reasonable
expectation with these units. It will certainly be cheaper than waiting for
it to inevitably break. That’s my big beef, the catastrophic failures.

Cheers,

Jeb aka The Great Obnoxious OneFrom: “immjag”

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

Let us all band together and work together in the clutch…8-)…Seriously, I have
several XJ6 engine and tranny combinations sitting in the garage and don’t have a clue as
to the type / year they are. How do we physically identify each type? There is a complete
engine / tranny to be removed / checked out in the 72. the 78 hasn’t been checked out as
the head on the engine needs to be installed & the FI has to be put back together. a
totoal of 4 transmissions …Does anyone know if there is a competent repair service in
Denver that will work on these BW with some degree of confidence? I have several ATRA
members locally and they have given good ( but expensive ) service in the past. I don’t
have the specialized tools or parts otherwise I might tackle checking out the BW12 in the
72 myself. I’ve done rearend overhauls and manual overhauls at dads shop with the usual
extra set of tools…

J&L Autoworks wrote:> From: “immjag”

In your words, Oh Please!
This is a DIY forum, with people attempting every imaginable repair.
The fact is that there ARE people who are not familiar with these boxes’
idiosyncrasies attempting these. How about the guy who’s going to try his
because he’s done a 727?

Well, that’s actually part of my point. These boxes are specific in their
needs and should be carefully checked over.

Yes, I’m sure there are those people, but with proper experience you will
understand the need of using a guage! Any “feel” can be turned in to a
specification. This is exactly the cloudiness and uncertainty that I wish
to
dispel with my posts!

Well, I haven’t had any problems with feel over the years as I have worked
with automatics in general and these boxes to some degree specifically. You
have to admit that you do acquire certain skills and techniques over the
years.

I feel that you need a good working knowledge of how the trans operates in
situ to be able to gauge the band and cable adjustment.

I’m not saying that any competent mechanic can’t do it but I want to stress
the importance of having it done correctly as you do. Sometimes, like what
you said about band adjustment, the manual gets you close but you tailor the
cable adjustment over a series of road tests.

Now there’s a blanket statement!

Couldn’t resist! 8>) All the independents around here are very good and
the chain shops are really bad.

This might be true, depending on who you are purchasing from. You may
be able to get only the parts you need also pretty cheap.

I have always bled profusely around the wallet when it comes to the
proprietary hard parts for the 65/66.

Here we go again… People, if you need hard parts for your 65, chances
are you can use the more plentiful 66 parts. You will quickly be able to
identify which parts are interchangeable. There’s no secret here!

The problem is that the 65 parts are somewhat harder to get than the 66
parts. At least there are a fair amount of the 66s still in service.

And I have never had to replace a cable yet.

Scary isn’t it.

Yeah, really! I’ve been lucky, I suppose, but no trouble so far.

I understand this, and I think that people making decisions to throw away
a rebuildable 65 for a 66 ought to understand some of my points.

I agree…but in most failures that I see, if the hard parts are junque,
it pays to get a used 66 and reseal it and put in new cllutches. If the 65
is really beat, that’s a very viable alternative.

Also, Do it

Yourselfers shouldn’t simply give up rebuilding either of these (65-66)
because someone has inserted a “feel” factor that only “experienced”
people
are supposed to posess. Baloney!

You have to remember that what you and I take for granted as simple and
straightforward sometimes can be daunting for a first timer. I don’t feel
that these transmissions are a good one to learn with.

I’m not saying that you have to have a lot of trans experience, but it’s a
big plus.

I know that I may come across as matter of factly, but that is mostly to
bring out you guys. I enjoy a good debate!!

Hey, no problem from where I stand…I love to arg…debate! 8>)

I’m thinking that maybe the both of us ought to get together and put
together a list of things in increasing levels of difficulty to help folks
deal with these transmissions. That way the newbie can go from a recent
purchase and how to take care of the trans to an outline of how to get it
fixed and intelligent questions to ask when seeking out a shop.

This thread cycles around fairly often so maybe this is an idea with some
merit.

I think that we are both pretty much on the same page as far as being
insistent on careful work with these boxes, but our approaches may differ.

Is it safe to say that you do feel that this may be a slightly inadequate
trans for a 4000 lb car with every reasonable expectation of a 250K
lifespan?

I know I sure do. I consider a trans overhaul at 100K a reasonable
expectation with these units. It will certainly be cheaper than waiting for
it to inevitably break. That’s my big beef, the catastrophic failures.

Cheers,

Jeb aka The Great Obnoxious One

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

Let us all band together and work together in the clutch…8-)…

Okay Greer, I’ll hold him while you smack him! 8>)

Seriously, I have

several XJ6 engine and tranny combinations sitting in the garage and don’t
have a clue as
to the type / year they are. How do we physically identify each type?
There is a complete
engine / tranny to be removed / checked out in the 72.

The '72 should have a Model 12…BIG cast iron trans with an aluminum bell
housing.

the 78 hasn’t been checked out as

the head on the engine needs to be installed & the FI has to be put back
together. a
totoal of 4 transmissions …

The '78 was originally fitted with a BW 65…smallish transmission with a
one piece case and bell housing.

JebFrom: “Art Blackwell”

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

I’m the guy that is going to try his because he’s done a Chrysler 727. As I
mention I have also done a Ford AOD (which I think is more complicated than
a BW 65). Anyway, everybody seems to have their own opinion about things.
I have my BW 65 out of the car and on the workbench and mostly disassembled.
So far everything looks to be in pretty fair shape, aside from the sheared
off notches (dog lugs) on the converter hub that drive the pump gear. I have
a rebuild kit and will replace all of the clutch plates and the two bands
(and of course all of the seals, etc). I will let everyone know how it
comes out.
Regards,
Jim B.
75 XJ6 (for driving)
76 XJ6 (for parts)----- Original Message -----
From: “immjag” immjag@charter.net
To: xj@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 9:38 AM
Subject: [xj] BW65 and 66

From J&L Autoworks:

How can you make such a blanket statement about rebuilders like that?
First
you say there’s no relevant improvements, then you say that the people
going
through the grief of rebuilding a trans that’s hard to get parts for it
aren’t going to adjust the cable properly? That’s kind of ridiculous as
most
of the people that will even tangle with one of these boxes are generally
experienced and have the skills to do this adjustment properly.

In your words, Oh Please!
This is a DIY forum, with people attempting every imaginable repair.
The fact is that there ARE people who are not familiar with these boxes’
idiosyncrasies attempting these. How about the guy who’s going to try his
because he’s done a 727?

Hey, these posts go into the archives so you have to be very careful
about
making conclusive statements like this. There are a few people out there
who
have never used a pressure gauge to set the cable adjustment. With proper
experience, you acquire the “feel” for the cable adjustment.

Yes, I’m sure there are those people, but with proper experience you will
understand the need of using a guage! Any “feel” can be turned in to a
specification. This is exactly the cloudiness and uncertainty that I wish
to
dispel with my posts!

You must have really inept tranny shops in your area or you consider
places
like Aamco or Cottman as rebuilders. They are NOT!

Now there’s a blanket statement!

It will probably be cheaper in the long run to get a used 66
that is not broken and go across the clutches, bands and seals that it
would
be to repair a broken 65.

This might be true, depending on who you are purchasing from. You may
be able to get only the parts you need also pretty cheap.
Here we go again… People, if you need hard parts for your 65, chances
are you can use the more plentiful 66 parts. You will quickly be able to
identify which parts are interchangeable. There’s no secret here!

And I have never had to replace a cable yet.

Scary isn’t it.

Remember that there are people that do not have your technical expertise
when you make these posts and that they will make decisions based on
that.
It’s a good idea to be very sure of what you speak before you say
something
like “I’m going to clear this up.”.

I understand this, and I think that people making decisions to throw away
a rebuildable 65 for a 66 ought to understand some of my points. Also, Do
it
Yourselfers shouldn’t simply give up rebuilding either of these (65-66)
because someone has inserted a “feel” factor that only “experienced”
people
are supposed to posess. Baloney!

I know that I may come across as matter of factly, but that is mostly to
bring out you guys. I enjoy a good debate!!

Thanks.
GW

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to
Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

Ok guys,
Enough Is enough! It’s really very simple, no matter how much we bitch and
complain about the reliability of these trannies, we are all still stuck
with them (unless you lump it of course).
So how about helping Jim and I with ours? That is what the list is for,
isn’t it? I posted a question about mine and recieved very few replies,
there is obviously alot of valuable knowledge on the list, so let’s put it
to good use.
So here goes:
A week ago my tranny quit, it lost all forward gears. Reverse still worked
fine. I suspected the governor because it was having trouble shifting, but
that seems to check out. I have reason to believe it’s a worn output shaft
seal. There was alot of play on the output shaft, it will noticable wiggle
from side to side. Is this normal?

Tonight I tore it apart. There is a lot of black metallis stuff in the pan.
I’m guessing this would be clutches and bands, right? I was under the
impression the bands were okay, but it turns out the are sooo borderline. So
i’m planning on replacing worn bushings, clutches, bands, and seals.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. I’m particularly interested in what
caused it to lose the forward gears. How can i check and be sure of what the
problem is?
Thanks in advance,
Irving Seligman_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

Art, this is a trick, right? The dipstick says 65 or 66 on it. Now, where
are those darned dipsticks anyway? {:o]–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.

Art Blackwell wrote:

Let us all band together and work together in the clutch…8-)…Seriously, I have
several XJ6 engine and tranny combinations sitting in the garage and don’t have a clue as
to the type / year they are. How do we physically identify each type? There is a complete
engine / tranny to be removed / checked out in the 72. the 78 hasn’t been checked out as
the head on the engine needs to be installed & the FI has to be put back together. a
totoal of 4 transmissions …Does anyone know if there is a competent repair service in
Denver that will work on these BW with some degree of confidence? I have several ATRA
members locally and they have given good ( but expensive ) service in the past. I don’t
have the specialized tools or parts otherwise I might tackle checking out the BW12 in the
72 myself. I’ve done rearend overhauls and manual overhauls at dads shop with the usual
extra set of tools…

[clip]

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

Fellow BW 65/66 enthusiasts (and non-enthusiasts),

I thank you all for your interesting and lively comments about
transmissions.

I bought my rebuild kit on ebay. It was very cheap (I was lucky). In has
clutches, bands, seals, and gaskets. The guy also threw in a new one-way
clutch. It did not include any new bushings. My previous two automatic
transmission rebuilding experiences went well enough. The secret seems to
be being very very careful, and not in too much of a hurry. Using a
polaroid camera to take pictures of things, so that you can get it all back
the right way, is a good idea. Also I cleared off a very large area on the
workbench so that I could set things out in the order that they were
disassembled in. I have an ATSG manual for BW 65/66. However at the local
library I found an old Chilton’s Automatic Transmission Manual (that covers
the BW 66) that I like better than the ATSG manual. And then just this
evening I found a copy of that same Chilton’s manual on ebay. So I bought it
for $8.50 (plus $3.5 shipping). I love ebay.

I am quite certain that simply replacing my broken torque converter would
get the car back on the road, but since I have gone to all that trouble of
removing the transmission from the car, I will go through the whole thing.

As far as special tools are concerned, in my previous two automatic
transmission adventures, I found that I didn’t really need many (at least
not on the Chrysler 727 and Ford AOD). As far as the special clutch
compression tools are concerned it is amazing what a guy can do with
c-clamps and small blocks of wood. Special seal installation tools are
recommended for assembling the clutch pistons. Those are somewhat like an
engine piston ring compression tool. They are necessary to protect the seal
lips while pushing the piston down into the clutch housings. However I
found that I could accomplish the same thing by wrapping the piston with a
piece of X-Ray film (covered in ATF), pushing the piston into the clutch
housing, and then pulling out the X-Ray film. It worked for all of the
piston in the Chrysler 727, and all but one of the pistons in the Ford AOD.
For the one that it didn’t work for I took the clutch housing and piston
down to a local rebuilders shop and they did it (for free) in about 2
minutes. So my advise on special tools is to improvise where practical, and
if that isn’t going to work then take the specific part to a local
transmission rebuilding shop and possibly pay a little bit to have then do
what ever needs to be done.

All in all my personal opinion is that automatic transmission overhauling is
easier than engine overhauling. And many of us manage to overhaul engines
so why not automatic transmissions? And when we overhaul our engines we
usually take pieces of our engine to a machinist to have some work done that
we can’t do ourselves (like turning the crankshaft, or boring the
cylinders). So I don’t feel bad about taking some pieces of my transmission
to a shop to have things done that I can’t do (like pressing in a difficult
bushing or getting a piston installed into a clutch housing).

Anyway that is my philosophy of automatic transmission overhaul.

Regards (and good luck)
Jim B.
1975 XJ6 (for driving)
1976 XJ6 (for parts)----- Original Message -----
From: “Irving Seligman” irviii@hotmail.com
To: <@bown>
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: [xj] BW65 and 66

Hi Jim,
I noticed your post about the transmission. i’m in the same boat as you
are.
The tranny is dissassembled on my workbench right now.
I was wondering if you would be interested helping to guide me through
rebuilding my transmission. You seem experienced, I’ve never done a
tranny,
but i have two excellent books on it. My real questions are what went
wrong,
what do i need to replace, and where can i get the replacement parts. If
you don’t mind me asking, how much did your kit cost? What did it include?
All of my hard parts seem to be in order, so i guess just clutches, bands,
seals, and gaskets need replacing.
I attached a copy of a post i sent to the list just a minute ago.
-Irving

Ok guys,
Enough Is enough! It’s really very simple, no matter how much we bitch and
complain about the reliability of these trannies, we are all still stuck
with them (unless you lump it of course).
So how about helping Jim and I with ours? That is what the list is for,
isn’t it? I posted a question about mine and recieved very few replies,
there is obviously alot of valuable knowledge on the list, so let’s put it
to good use.
So here goes:
A week ago my tranny quit, it lost all forward gears. Reverse still worked
fine. I suspected the governor because it was having trouble shifting, but
that seems to check out. I have reason to believe it’s a worn output shaft
seal. There was alot of play on the output shaft, it will noticable wiggle
from side to side. Is this normal?

Tonight I tore it apart. There is a lot of black metallis stuff in the
pan.
I’m guessing this would be clutches and bands, right? I was under the
impression the bands were okay, but it turns out the are sooo borderline.
So
i’m planning on replacing worn bushings, clutches, bands, and seals.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. I’m particularly interested in what
caused it to lose the forward gears. How can i check and be sure of what
the
problem is?
Thanks in advance,
Irving Seligman

From: “James Bown” <@bown>
To: “immjag” immjag@charter.net, xj@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xj] BW65 and 66
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 16:58:42 -0700

I’m the guy that is going to try his because he’s done a Chrysler 727.
As
I
mention I have also done a Ford AOD (which I think is more complicated
than
a BW 65). Anyway, everybody seems to have their own opinion about
things.
I have my BW 65 out of the car and on the workbench and mostly
disassembled.
So far everything looks to be in pretty fair shape, aside from the
sheared
off notches (dog lugs) on the converter hub that drive the pump gear. I
have
a rebuild kit and will replace all of the clutch plates and the two bands
(and of course all of the seals, etc). I will let everyone know how it
comes out.
Regards,
Jim B.
75 XJ6 (for driving)
76 XJ6 (for parts)


Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

Art, this is a trick, right? The dipstick says 65 or 66 on it.

It won’t in the '72…8>)

JebFrom: “Cannara”

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.

J&L Autoworks wrote:

I’m thinking that maybe the both of us ought to get together and put
together a list of things in increasing levels of difficulty to help folks
deal with these transmissions. That way the newbie can go from a recent
purchase and how to take care of the trans to an outline of how to get it
fixed and intelligent questions to ask when seeking out a shop.

This is a great idea. From folks like you both, to those of us who only get to look at
one about every 10 years it would be a great help.
I find that I tend to forget what I used to know anyway, so need something to jog the old
gray cells, ah well decrepidation coming on.
Cheers
Richard Grffiths===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/index.html
Archives: Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers

To remove yourself from this list, go to Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers.