Well, the coolant pressure tester has confirmed that it’s leaking.
But for the last 7 or 8 years of bad acting, Barrs leaks has
controlled it well enough (at least according to my nose - which
can smell Barrs Leaks a mile away)… I replaced the Matrix once
back in 1992ish. I doubt I’ll ever do it again, unless the Barrs
leaks creates some overheating issues for me…
I supposed a case could be made for the fact that I don’t flush my
radiator annually, but I do get it done every 24-30 months… or
about every 20,000-24,000 miles.
I stand by my quote from Kirby Palm awhile back, ‘‘these damn things
aren’t supposed to leak, but Jaguar hasn’t figured that out yet!’’
Heck, I’m just thankful it’s not the headgastket! though prolly
an easier job than heater matrix replacement IMO. ;-)–
Ted Macklin/'85 XJ6SIII
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from TMack sent Mon 7 Dec 2009:
Ted
I believe in Barrs leaks, too, if that doesn’t get me banned from
the forum
But this autumn, while replacing a very blocked air con expansion
valve, I thought I would get the heater matrix out of the V12
engined car to invetsigate the occasional suspicious smell.
Turned out to be nothing wrong with the heater matrix (even had it
pressure checked by the local radiator firm) so all I got was the
benefit of removing the centre console.
I did re-finish the lacquer on the dash at the same time though.–
The original message included these comments:
Well, the coolant pressure tester has confirmed that it’s leaking.
But for the last 7 or 8 years of bad acting, Barrs leaks has
controlled it well enough (at least according to my nose - which
In reply to a message from almcl sent Mon 7 Dec 2009:
That’s indeed a possibility. But where else did that cup of water
disappear to (that was missing from the reservoir when I removed
the Pressure tester)?–
The original message included these comments:
Turned out to be nothing wrong with the heater matrix (even had it
pressure checked by the local radiator firm) so all I got was the
benefit of removing the centre console.
In reply to a message from TMack sent Tue 8 Dec 2009:
Very good question, Ted.
I replaced the head gasket (and several other things) on my six
cylinder car this summer. It, too, is managing to loose a certain
amount of cooling fluid and I’ve absoluetly no idea where to. There
is still fluid in the header tank, but not as much as I would
expect or like. The radiator is a prime suspect - the copper
cooling fins are flaking away at the bottom, so that might be up
for a re-core shortly.
I did once have a leaky heater valve (on the XJS.) It only weeped a
little after hot shut downs and of course evaporated off the
gearbox and was extremely difficult to spot. Eventually I caught it
and replaced the valve. I’ve also had bottom hoses that leak very
small amounts when driving but not otherwise and this is difficult
to spot, too.
But if you find out where yours is going, let me know? It might
prompt a further investigation.–
The original message included these comments:
That’s indeed a possibility. But where else did that cup of water
disappear to (that was missing from the reservoir when I removed
In reply to a message from TMack sent Tue 8 Dec 2009:
my 1984 still has the factory heater matrix, those don’t leak just
like that, and certainly not twice as in your case. You are
probably smelling coolant from another source that happens to get
into the air flow when the flaps open for ‘‘fresh air’’.
Seek and ye shall find. But lay off the Barr’s.
Zurdo–
The original message included these comments:
That’s indeed a possibility. But where else did that cup of water
disappear to (that was missing from the reservoir when I removed
the Pressure tester)?
Turned out to be nothing wrong with the heater matrix (even had it
pressure checked by the local radiator firm) so all I got was the
benefit of removing the centre console.
Ted Macklin/'85 XJ6SIII
In reply to a message from almcl sent Tue 8 Dec 2009:
I’m done pressurizing my system (to 15 lbs), because I think that
it is creating undue stress on the overall system. I found the
leaks in the hoses (and at the brown reservoir) so I’ve
accomplished my major goal which was to find potential catastrophic
leaks.
At some point after 22 years of ownership, I have to tell myself
perfection (in some areas) is simply out of reach. Now that my Diff
has been replaced with a dry one - yes, a first no-leaker in 22
years, I’m pretty satisfied with how she’s holding up over all.
I’m a bit miffed by the 120 PSI compression test reading on #4 from
from front cylinder (all the rest are ~150). I may check valve lash
over the Holidays but other than that, the daily driver will have
to let me know if anything’s really amiss. I’m done for awhile.
The IRS’ectomy really took the steam out of me this time around but
I do still want to build a special tap for measuring each cylinders
exhaust emissions - cannibalizing that air rail in some fashion…–
The original message included these comments:
But if you find out where yours is going, let me know? It might
prompt a further investigation.
In reply to a message from almcl sent Tue 8 Dec 2009:
I’m done pressurizing my system (to 15 lbs), because I think that
it is creating undue stress on the overall system. I found the
leaks in the hoses (and at the brown reservoir) so I’ve
accomplished my major goal which was to find potential catastrophic
leaks.
The system operates at 15 psi while running, Ted - and and if it doesn’t
leak with this test pressure you have indeed done what is required. And
this leak test can be performed in peace and quiet…:-)>At some point after 22 years of ownership, I have to tell myself
perfection (in some areas) is simply out of reach. Now that my Diff
has been replaced with a dry one - yes, a first no-leaker in 22
years, I’m pretty satisfied with how she’s holding up over all.
I’m a bit miffed by the 120 PSI compression test reading on #4 from
from front cylinder (all the rest are ~150). I may check valve lash
over the Holidays but other than that, the daily driver will have
to let me know if anything’s really amiss. I’m done for awhile.
The best is to test the cylinders both ‘dry’ and ‘wet’, Ted - to get an
impression whether it is an upstairs or downstairs wear problem…
Valve lash is unlikely - unless it is so tight that the valve is not
closing fully. And if it isn’t it will burn - so there is some urgency
in that…
In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Wed 9 Dec 2009:
I suppose I could bypass the heater matrix easy enough,(the hoses
are new) and then run up the pressure with the pump. Sheesh.
Something (to do) for the weekend project.–
Ted Macklin/'85 XJ6SIII
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Wed 9 Dec 2009:
I suppose I could bypass the heater matrix easy enough,(the hoses
are new) and then run up the pressure with the pump. Sheesh.
Something (to do) for the weekend project.
least it would eliminate the heater core as a source of a leakdown, Ted
confirming that it is not woiuld be a relief. On the other hand…
1988 Daimler D6 Series 3 sedan with 27K actual miles - Must replace
heater matix / coolant smell - fog on windscreen etc. - I have
found 2-3 hr ‘‘shortcut’’ posted on jagbits.com - 1) has anyone tried
this and been successful? 2) Since I must replace, should I
consider taking out entire unit and repalce AC Evap as well? Ac
blows cold now.–
sdmarm
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I presume the shortcut on Jagbits involves cutting the heater pipes? Is that
the one?
Since yours is an '88 V12 you’ll have the MkIII climate control. Replacing
the heater matrix is much easier. No pipe cutting required.
In a nutshell the heater pipes unbolt from the left side of the matrix which
then simply slides out from the opposite end of the heater box. You’ll have
to remove a fair bit of “stuff” to gain access but, still, much easier than
the Mk II system.
1988 Daimler D6 Series 3 sedan with 27K actual miles - Must replace
heater matix / coolant smell - fog on windscreen etc. - I have
found 2-3 hr ‘‘shortcut’’ posted on jagbits.com - 1) has anyone tried
this and been successful?
In reply to a message from Doug Dwyer sent Thu 31 Mar 2011:
Correct, ‘‘cutting tubes’’ - Not certain as to MK II and MK III
control - Are you calling to attention body style btwn XJ Series 3
and XJ40 Sedan? My 88 is of the Series III body style in production
until 91-92 throughout Canada and Europe.–
sdmarm
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
though prolly