I am not really keen on adjusting things just yet because it did run perfectly fine an entire afternoon with everything as is. I do not want to introduce more variables. Something changed and then the issues started. The TB clearance was checked a million times since I had such a hard time to get the engine to even turn on while I had all of the vacuum problems.
Lets go with the theory that the engine is running lean. I think I should rule out if there is a “new” vac leak somewhere. Maybe something got loose. Ill try to do the test with the smoke again and rule that out before I go changing settings.
I am guessing to enrich the mixture I would need to close the AFM bypass and reducing air. Correct?
I noticed today that the hesitation doesn’t start until 2-3 min after first start of the day. Meaning it was fine while the engine was cold (OAT 25C)
The bypass screw allows air past the AFM flap, increasing flap deflection as bypass is reduced - the more flap deflection the more fuel…
The ECU deliberately fattens fuel with a cold engine, gradually leaning out as the engine warms up. This is because in all engines the actual air/fuel mixing improves with temperature. I ‘think’ the process is continuous, with no threshold - but the ECU has its own secrets…
However, your symptoms implies that the ‘hot’ mixture is too lean - and may be improved with tweaking of the AFM bypass. Which has a limited range - and, if insufficient the AFM might then be opened to reset to a fatter mixture. Though this hardly explains the sudden onset of the symptoms…
Thank you Frank! I am going to be away from the project for 2 weeks.
Today I started to learn how to weld…Youtube had a few tricks to teach me. I did my first welds on a few angles. I kept cutting them and welding them back together. Has little to do with the Jag but I need to get some skills to get those few spots taken car of to pass inspection. I think It was pretty good for a bloody beginner.
I will practice some more but even the welds that are not pretty hold very strong and after I pass over it with the angle grinder it turns it smooth. So it gave me confidence that with a bit of practice I should be able to get that whole on the foot area patched up. Baby Steps.
Mig with flux wire. Don’t weld galvanized stuff max remember? Looks like you’re doing really well. Find some sheet metal (0.7-1mm maybe) and if you can weld that without distortion you can go for it!
Yes, It was all I could find. I did shave it down to get rid of some of the galvanic attributes but I am aware that it was not ideal. I just wanted to try the thing out. To be honest I had a great time playing with it. I think it is a neat tool. When I get back I will cut some parts of the parts car and try to get the settings right and then go for it. I will let you all know how it goes of course. I was able to get one decent line like the one you posted Harry. But there is a fine line between a nice line and burning a whole in the material.
Looks great but yes the thinner the material the harder it is not to burn an additional whole in it. I have 0,8mm and 0,9mm flux wire. Only tried the 0,9 so far.
Its extremely advantageous for thin sheet metal if you can clamp a section of copper behind the area you are welding, it makes a world of difference
You get a slightly smoother weld with gas shield mig on car panels
If you are new at welding car panels, check out this guys Youtubes, he knows what he is doing, and there is heaps of other Youtube stuff, including on flux core mig
He is good, I suggest watch quite a few of his vids (and some others)
That will shortcut your learning by many hours
practice on scrap steel
have the right grinding tools, discs & wheels
The way he overlays butt weld patches, then cuts them in at 45* with a thin disc is an absolute revelation
I would also consider inert gas, the tank and gas are not that expensive, although you do need to switch polarity and change some small parts, the pros use it for a reason
I welded Max‘ exhaust with stick and it was very thin in places, did burn through a few times until I got the hang of it. It was my first time and I only knew MIG and that not very well.
Then there’s the slag to take care of and all the hole repairs and spatter.
You can, but for body metal stick is not a good idea.
My wife and I, and our pooch, are now comfortably ensconced in Moscow Pennsylvania, having moved from a home in Scranton PA about two years ago. Moscow is a somewhat rural community about 12 miles east of Scranton, where we lived for some thirty years. Moscow is a very pleasant community were residents are congenial and friendly. The XJ6 however is still housed in garage in Scranton. I would like to move the Jaguar closer to our new home. We have enough land adjacent to our home that we could expend the current two car garage to house the Jaguar. However, I think, but amy not certain, that it would be better to have a unique location relatively close to our home. By having the Jaguar away from my home, think that I can keep my thoughts on the Jag and not think about the cutting the lawn or washing the window.
I would be interested in any comments by owners who have their hobby cars either at their home garage or at a remove location.
