It is one and the same filter. But yes I went ahead and ordered the gasket from the bottom of the tank and I will open that bottom nut once I have that and see whats what… Unsure how properly clean a tank. Youtube shows some crazy ideas with all sorts of fun stuff…
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Max,
unless you’ve got serious trouble with that tank I’d leave the bottom plug untouched. Opening it up will be messy, anything you may wish to do, once that thing is open will be messy and getting it tight afterwards may be adding insult to injury …
If you manage to run that tank really empty you might prefer to first blow the sump part dry with a pump (mechanical?) and a hose (like the ones you inflate air mattresses with) and then basically vacuum dry debris and rust flakes out that may have accumulated over time. Just fantasizing, but I’d go long ways to avoid the way into the tank through the bottom nut.
Good luck anyhow
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
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Is the bottom accessible from the float hole in the rear? Or is there a baffle in between? I still had quite a bit of fuel in there when I opened them in the rear. How do you propose to get a vacuum cleaner in there?
I figured opening them is asking for trouble I just didn’t see how else to get the junk out of there.
Is it a terrible idea to just fill it up with vinegar and wait a couple of days…?
Max,
Opening the bottom will be somewhat of a mess indeed; you tanks have to be empty.
If the tank is less than 1/3 full you can safely remove the senders.
You can then safely siphon the fuel out.
No baffles, so you will have a clear view inside the tanks.
If they are dirty then you can remove the big plug and rinse them / vacuum all the dirt out.
As I have said before, It’s best that you remove the in-tank filters and put two high flow filters before the pump.
Easily cleanable/replaceable.
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Vinegar will not dissolve debris, Max and you still have to empty the tanks first…
If you suspect debris in the tanks, the relative merits of the various methods are arguable. The bottom drains are there for the expressed purpose of draining and cleaning in situ. The small drain for draining - the big for cleaning and replacing the filter.
Even if you fit external filters the in-yank filter should be inspected and either replaced or removed. To do this without removing the big drain plug will be cumbersome…
Removing the tank units and syphoning through the holes is perfectly feasible - allowing inspection of the tanks, and possibly inspect the sludge sump for debris, Using a vacuum cleaner; there are no baffles, but eventual debris will be wet.
I would recommend the standard procedure if cleaning is necessary. Though your adverse experiences with other routine procedures going awry (no fault of yours) makes me wonder…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
OK I will just drive it empty. That should be a quick endeavor since it pumps the fuel over to the right anyway. It should dry out. In the interest of keeping it a driver I will only mess with the left tank for now.
No but in my experience it will loosen it up and it will accumulate a the bottom. Worked really well on the senders.
Indeed, Max - vinegar is frequently used to clean the tanks…
The gist is to get eventual debris out of the tanks, one way or another, preferably without taking them out. Which is really only required for replacement or refurbishing…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Just happy to be driving a Jag…1850km since resurrection. The list is still long but so far a dependable driver with a boot full of tools
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The thing I Most enjoyed about getting my Jag Reliable and Dependably back on the road was to Ditch the ginormous too kit (near 200 pounds) in the back. Just In Case, ya know, we carried enough for some Serious repairs.
Not only was response and fuel economy so much better, but handling too. in fact, I never drove a car that handled as well as Nix did stripped of that load.
You’ll hardly believe it until you experience it yourself. I hope that’s soon.
(‘;’)
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Sure maybe soon. I kind of like being prepared and I feel like as soon as I leave it out I am gonna be in trouble but, it does bother me that I have to put my groceries in the rear seat area since the trunk is “locked and loaded” 
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Hi,
Many do that because of fuel fumes in the trunk! 
I have tried to fight that but as I have a carb’d early Euro S2 XJ6C with no fuel recirculation nor any carbon cannisters I thinkit’s not that complicated. YMMV.
Cheers!
I opened the Left tank again and siphoned as much as I could. Unfortunately it doesn’t siphon the dirt very well. I think I would need much higher sucking pressure and bigger hose to get a lot of it out… I have no idea how long it will take to evaporate but I am going to let it sit for a week or so.
I would guess opening the bottom and then pressure washing it with water would be an option but as some of you suggested no way to tell if that plug is going back in there leak free and introducing water in there is going to cause issues later. I am a bit unsure how to proceed. It makes it hard since the tank is somewhat flat on the bottom. So there is a wide area for dirt to sit.
With so much gunk inside there I see no other easy option.
I’ve put a big fat o-ring on the big plug, worked well, still does. It has to be a tight fit in the plug so it doesn’t bulge out and go easy tightening it, one grunt will suffice.
Can’t remember if I did that at the same at the small plug.
Find a copper washer slightly bigger than the plug and put a o-ring in between. The copper washer will keep the o-ring in place.
You can’t leave the tanks like that.
I see that your in-tank filter is also kaput. Good opportunity to get rid of them.
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Sorry, Max - there is no effective way of properly in-car cleaning of the tanks properly but to remove the drain plug(s) - and wash out with water…or whatever.
I suggest you do so; evaporation may just leave the gunk - or just live with dirty tanks while musing…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Alright. So I am going to close the connection to the left tank so I can remain a driver and I have opened the bottom screw. I accidentally broke the plastic cover. What was the trick with those? just for the other side… The big and the small plug came out easy. No corrosion on it.
The filter came out. It was actually in OK shape. Just de laminated at one corner. I would assume it was still doing its job.
Now what is the best way to get everything out of it? The plug has a pretty large lip on the inside of the tank making flushing larger particles pretty difficult.
So far I put 3L of fuel in it and then opened the bottom hoping most of it would come out with it. While there is a lot coming out there is no way I will get it clean this way.
So I am asking you for advice again?
Sorry Max,
not speaking of experience, but now that you’ve got access from top and a hole in the bottom, you can do pretty much anything like putting a steam cleaner in or plugging the drain and let some brake cleaner soak the ugly residue at the bottom. As long as you let everything dry well before putting in fresh fuel everything will be pretty good.
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
Go to a hardware store and get two electric socket covers for furnitures, exactly the same diameter and they fit right in.
Yes, but it might keep delaminating until either it tears or blocks the fuel supply.
I would pressure wash it from the fuel senders aperture. Eco friendly and no waste of fuel. Just dry it really well, like with a blow dryer.
Once dry and with all the gung cleaned you can vacuum all the leftover loose particles.
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Just flush it with water, Max - cheap and effective, though messy. Of course, drying out is imperative - as others have stressed…
And since everything is open; check inside condition of the tanks. Debris is either delaminating tank sealing or plain rust - or both. Nothing can really be done about either without taking out the tank(s)…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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I think you guys are right and a pressure washer would have worked very well. Unfortunately I do not have one or even a garden hose. So I had to do it with a brush. I taped it to a stick and tried to brush the inside of the tank. The areas I was able to reach are clean. The rest is not…
The Flakes appear to be the stuff that was stuck on the wall. Now with the Inner filter removed I must assume that some of that will still loosen over time and end up being sucked into the line. The before pump filter should be able to catch that. If not the main filter after the pump will.
Not sure I will be able to do much better short of dropping the tank.
Sure better than before.
Any ideas how to prevent it from flash rusting while drying?