There is no ‘bypass’ of the resistor on the CE ign, Max - it is permanently in line…
The early use of external coil resistors was associated with points ignition - and intended to bypass the resistor during cranking. Indeed to increase spark voltage/energy for the purpose of easier starting. For technical reasons; the low rpms during cranking lowers spark voltage…
For electronic ignition this is not the case; spark voltage is independent of rpms. If external resistors are fitted it is for a different purpose - and Lucas coils did not have an external resistor with the CE set-up. However, the Ducelier was, for some reason was specifed with a 1 ohm external…
I suggest you measure the Lucas’ primary resistance - and the resistance on the fitted resistor. Or, rather, bypass the resistor and try starting…
If starting is difficult either(!) with a cold or a hot engine, and particularly if bypassing the external resistor - the starting difficulties are not related to ignition…
And indeed; if starting is to specs with resistor bypassed - omit the resistor…
I am very confused by this. I have a points ignition don’t I ? Why would the Lucas system of the s3 be considered electronic? It sort of defeats the purpose of fitting a 6v coil with a ballast to a 12v system.
Did I just waste 35$? my rusty 12v coil without the ballast was working while terrible looking it appears to work the same! More spark at high RMP is irrelevant to a 3 gear 2 ton car that I will never push. I only purchased it because I had hoped it would benefit at low (idle) rpm 500-700 range.
First of all, Max - check whether you have points or the S3’s constant energy (CE) or points…
Ie, the Lucas AB14’s ign amplifier and the two wires from the distributor is easily identified - denoting electronic ignition. Points systems used ‘6V coils’ with external resistors, bypassed only during cranking, for extra power then - and in line for sustained running. 12V drives twice the current through a 6V coil - causing coil overheating - hence the resistor to reduce current…
Coils are basically transformers; converting ‘chopped’ 12V DC to ignition voltages. The ration of primary and secondary wiring crudely decides ignition voltages; the voltages bridges the plug gap, but the current decides the spark energy - which ignites the mixture.
These are the principles, but actual coil construction is decided by the manufacturers. Who have some leeway - so the ‘6V’ and ‘12V’ is not the whole story. Crudely, the electronic ignition produces twice (or more) the voltages for the same coil - which is why a ‘12V’ coil works as intended on 12V, and an external resistor is redundant…
My main point is to verify whether your starting problems are related to the ignition/coil - or has other causes. If the primary resistance is some 1 - 3 ohms it is safe to use without a resistor. And bypassing the resistor will tell what’s what…
I won’t say you have wasted 35 dollars, but buying a coil without certainty that the old coil caused problems is not a priority. The plugs just have to consistently ignite the mixture; if they do, it’s as good as it gets - you don’t get any more power with a stronger spark.
And as said; electronic ignition is oblivious to rpms…
It might be worth noting that brake rotors rusting overnight is not necessarily an indicator of inferior quality. Back in the '70’s much derision was cast upon Norton and Triumph motorcycles whose disc brakes rusted overnight. The big thing was that their brakes worked in the wet, whereas the high chromium content, non-rusting discs of contemporary Japanese bikes most assuredly, did not! You makes your choices. Also, in search of superior braking performance, modern systems utilise sacrificial discs, usually meaning changing the rotors with every 2nd pad change. All jolly fine if you seek the ultimate in braking performance, but needlessly expensive if you don’t drive like Lewis Hamilton, day in, day out.
I have the new Fan and an 88c thermostat to install next. Hopefully the last time I have to take the fan off. I feel like I have done it more than 5 times now!
This is what I have been driving around with. I have 4 cracks that to all the way to the other side. Looks like it is fine as long as the viscous coupling works. If that fails… I think sh°°t is going to hit the “Fan”
Anyway now being a pro at taking this thing in and out I made it in record time. I also learned that taking a cardboard between the radiator and the fan helps protecting it really well!
I took out the 6 bolts on top of the radiator mounting to flex the whole front a little bit out of the way and took out the bolts holding the fan shroud. Then pulled out the Fan
Conclusion: If you are looking for a fan for an XJ6 S3 the part number EBC4553 of the XJ12 S3 will work. It just doesn’t look like an original part since the color is all wrong.
So I drained the coolant. This is the coolant that has been in there for the entire 1700 km I have put on the car (6 months). The coolant was green! Man this car produces so much rust. Its unreal. Guess it is time to change that already.
How often do you guys change your coolant? Is this normal?
Recommended time line is every 2 years, no the colour is a bit off as you surmise its cleaning the system out. If the weather isn’t too cold you might want to run the car with plain water for a few runs and rinse and repeat until it starts to clear up. There is probably a product on the market to help speed up the process.
Changing the thermostat to 88C will have the engine running closer to its best operating temp and improves the cooling effedt - it’s stability of temp that should be watched.
And the colour of glycol is usually green - and as the rust protection additive deteriorate over time the scheduled change is indeed two years…
Yea I might do that. I purchased 20L of coolant a year ago for half of the price that the same stuff is now. Pretty ridiculous whats going on these days. I don’t really want to do this every 6 months. I guess I am happy that I found no signs of oil in the water. So that’s great.
it is generally recommendable to rinse the coolant circuit - just drain the antifreeze mixture, put a water hose in on one side and let the other side unconnected over any gutter. Water on, engine on and flush until water comes out clean!
Just one question: even if there was no oil in the water (which is great!), did the water smell like exhaust? - As the antifreeze has a strong sweetish smell exhaust fumes may go unnoticed, especially if you drain the coolant without prior running of the engine. I only ask as exhaust gases in the coolant may also change the color. Then again, the engine may have been sitting for years before you reinstalled and exercised it during the last months. So there is enough reason for a large amount of crud and rust being washed off now. I wouldn’t be overly concerned if the engine behaves well and just give it another one or two years with frequent changes of coolant. If you want to economize you might get away with a 30/70 mixture in Münster.
I think you are on to something. I couldnt believe it but since I do not have a water hose and defenitly can’t do that over a water gutter thing. I am fairly certain my neighbors would be bored enough to make calls…
Since I have to properly dispose of the coolant I have it sitting in the garage and it looks like as the crud sinks to the bottom the green color is starting to come back.
Also I put water in yesterday and went for a drive with the heater on full blast to get the heater core flushed too and drained it… Boy am I glad that was not fresh coolant!
It appear I just have mobilized 38 years worth of crap over the past couple months. I will continue to flush it this way until it clears up. By that time, my new 20L of coolant should have arrived.
With the new thermostat the temperature goes to where it should be. Comes up to right under 90C. I will watch it closely. I have not hit the highway yet. Just city traffic. It does come up to temperature quicker than with the old thermostat and that makes sense.
a cheap trick is to use dishwasher powder and change the water every few days until it runs clear, this can take up to 10 cycles, even more maybe
a lady’s ( or your own if you are into that sort of thing ) nylon stocking end can ideally be placed over the radiator hose ends during this process to prevent debris clogging the radiator, although it may already be compromised in your cae
Thought about this but honestly I think I am just going to flush it as long as it takes and not add anything that may or may not cause problems later. The radiator I had flushed before I put it back into the car and it was fairly clean. Of course I have no idea how new stuff is in it now. But It is an old car I am taking care of it as best as I know how to.
once the antifreeze is disposed of correctly, flushing the coolant circuit may be dirty, but not ecologically detrimental. I did it once in a workshop and everybody there found it quite normal. Of course, the workshop had standard oil separators.
Now just keep on doing the same routine … you’ll get very quick, I bet;-)
) nylon stocking end can ideally be placed over the radiator hose ends during this process to prevent debris clogging the radiator, although it may already be compromised in your cae